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  1. Just got a washer and dryer from a friend for free. Dryer works great, washer did two loads and now f33 error code and door stays locked. My friend had a repairman out to fix this problem, the guy replaced the door latch switch and didn't fix the problem. He said must be the CCU. Told my friend New CCU would fix the problem. Sound about right? Repairman quoted 350/400$ parts and labor to fix, I found new CCU online and watched a video how to. Doesn't look like 250/300$ worth of labor. Thoughts?
  2.  I recently sought out help on your site to diagnoise a front loading washers which was not completing the final spin. The filter before the pump was clogged and the door switch was weak. I cleaned out the filter, and replaced the door switch but now the display screen is showing 44 and locked and the machine will not start. this is not a E44 code simply a cycle time I believe) I tried to reset the screen using instructions in the technical guide but nothing happened. I checked for continuity at the J 2 connector and the contact still show open with the door switch. I bypassed the door switch at the switch to illuminate the door lock light but still the machine will not start. The factory manual does not describe how to remove the locked command. any assistance would be appreciated.The machine seems to be stuck in the control lock mode,the repair manual states to hold down the options button and the select buttons at the same time but this is not unlocking the control lock command The lock switch was recently replaced. unplugging the machine makes no difference.as nothing changes.. 
  3. Complaint is oven door locked while using oven.   Will not unlock & has never used clean cycle.    They told me that it happened once before when they bought range in 2006.   Repair men came out and 'calibrated' it.   My questions: what would trigger the latch motor into lockingHow can I get it to unlatch (button dance)If I can't get it to electronically unlatch, how would I manually unlock it.May I get a mini manual if it does not have one (already told that there is nothing at rear cabinet.I have reviewed other posts But found nothing pertaining to this exact model.   I have not talked to client yet, information was passed on to me,  I will see range in morning.
  4. Is there a Mini-Manual available for this range.   Complaint is used clean cycle & the cycle finished & door lock light stays on & oven door will not unlock.
  5. We had an electric light storm the other night.  Nice show.   Unfortunately for some they did not have surge protection.  Have a complaint on an whirlpool oven the bake, broil, & surface elements all work then the f-5 code chimes in & dead oven.   Also the clean oven lock switch is stuck in lock position.   Questions:   1.  What is the code meaning, 2.  How does I manually unlock the door. 3.  How would a power interruption engage the lock mechanism
  6. Back of an LG Washing Machine Showing Rotor and Wire Harness

    From the album Washer Repair

  7. I encountered this slide-in stove the other day with the door locked and an f10,f30 code flashing. They were no tech sheet,but found a similar stove I looked up previously with this model no. and it looks exactly the same. Anyway, I found that the f10 code refers to a runaway heat temperature, possibly a safety stat or oven sensor. The problem is I can't seem to open the door. Anyone can tell me what I need to do to unlock this door?  Thanks, do mo.
  8. Greetings all and fortunately, this is a tale of success however since my symptoms were slightly different than previous warriors, I thought I would post my story.   My washing machine began displaying the LR code occasionally.  I was usually able to get it to finish the load by unplugging and allowing proper rest time.  I knew there were issues on the horizon but I managed to limp by until last weekend.  I put my last load into the machine and this time, it refused to finish it's job.  I started my research and found a few different scenarios but all of them seemed to result in purchasing the controller and motor kit.  My serial number starts with B7 and I'm not sure what year it is or any of that good stuff especially since I basically got the machine for free.  It has been a great washer for myself and 3 children so I really hated the idea of replacing it.  My wallet also resented the idea. I performed the spin diagnostic with no errors.  As a matter of fact, I utilized this to get a couple of loads finished during it's period of non -cooperation.  The agitation portion of the sequence worked fine as did the quick cycle diag. I checked the leads across the water valves and they appeared fine.  I also checked the motor for resistance values according to the diag sheet, which checked out. I pulled the control board and only noticed a few oddity's.  One of the large capacitors appeared to be bulging (I have replaced bulging caps on motherboards when there was a rash of them a few years ago) and I also had some residue on a few resistors that resembled a leaky battery. At this point I was kind of at a loss but took the advice given to so many with the same issue and ordered the kit overnight shipping.  I figured worse case, I was out the cost of shipping if my decision was incorrect. I ordered the kit around 7pm and it arrived at 11am the next day.  I can't say enough about the help and quality customer service that RepairClinic.com provides. I replaced the components in about 45 minutes following the instruction sheet provided.  There were a few changes with the kit I received so I wanted to comment on that. The default connection to the control board which I believe is labeled as "main" would fit with my existing connnection however this would bypass the newly added ac filter.  I tried it this way and the spin diag worked fine.  I felt like I should follow the instructions however so I pulled the molex connection apart and made the filter part of the circuit as advised.  I retained everything just in case I needed to bypass it for some reason but I feel comfortable with following the instructions.   I already finished my first load since the repair and all appears sound.   Tripper     Drive Motor and Control Board kit ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Drive-Motor/12002039/949491?modelNumber=MAH5500BWQ  
  9. Ok, I have tried everything. What am I missing. We have just the top drawer installed, no bottom. Replaced a cracked drain hose a year ago. 6 months ago the dishwasher would leave a cup to a cup and a half of water in the bottom. After a couple weeks it starts nasty black mold to growing everywhere. I blew out the drain hose, replaced the rotor, and replaced the flap valve in the drain hose. The dishwasher still leaves a cup and a half of water in the bottom. What is interesting is that I can manually activate the drain function P2 in diagnostic mode and drain 90% of the leftover water out. There is still a small puddle in the food debris area, but only about 2-4 tablespoons. Is there supposed to be any water whatsoever left in the food trap area? Any help is greatly appreciated.
  10. My top loading Neptune washer won't unlock, pulled plug, lid will not open. Prior to this "op" code on screen, and washer was not running.
  11. Kitchenaid KGSS907SSS

    Need some help with this range. Customer complaint: Door locked and no power to controls. I went and tore it all apart determined that the control transformer was fried on the primary voltage side. Replaced it reassembled and all was good. They call back a week later - same thing. They ran the F#@&*^! self clean and came back a few hours later and the door was locked and the display is dead. Its the tranformer again. Whats up?
  12. Hello, I have a GE Monogram wall oven. After using the self clean cycle the display showed F9. I finally got that to go away by pressing the off/clear button, but then the word "Locked" keeps flashing and the fan is running. The door locks when you close it. It will unlock after pressing the off/clear button and waiting, so that you can open the door. This stops the fan, but "locked" remains in the display. None of the other buttons (bake,etc) work now except clean. Any ideas on what this might mean? Thanks for your help.
  13. I have a KitchenAid Architect Series II Gas 5-Burner cooktop. My wife removed all of the knobs and burner parts to clean it. When she reinstalled everything, the "lock" light came and none of the burners work. When you push and hold the lock button, the unit beeps three times and a small blue light on the indicator for the left rear (smallest) burner is briefly illuminated. The manual states that this is an indicator that the burner is still on preventing the unit from unlocking. However, I have turned the knob for that burner to the off position several times with no luck. I even unplugged the unit for 15 seconds and replugged it with the same result. I also removed and replaced the two burner parts, again with no change. The only difference with this burner I can detect is that there is slightly more resistance in turning the knob, but that was probably the case before my wife cleaned the cooktop. Any help would be greatly appreciated.