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  1. I have a Kenmore 79691172210 Dryer. The heat is not staying on for more than 10 seconds. The igniter turns bright red then the flames come up. It stay on for 8 seconds then the igniter slowly fades and then turns off completely. The barrel still spins. 30-45 seconds later, the flame comes on again and it cycles off again. Can anyone confirm that these are symptoms of a bad gas coil? After much research, I found it to be the gas coils but for this specific model, I can't get just the coil and need the whole gas assembly?!?! What gives? A $20 part is bad but I need to pay $130 for the assembly?! Thank you!
  2. We have a stacked washer/dryer - the washer is putting out a code E2 and F3 - starts to go through the wash cycle and stops.  There is some water seepage.  Unfortunately I can't get to the back of the unit because its stacked.  I checked the front filter underneath and removed some junk and gunk.  Wife doesn't overload the detergent - uses HE detergent. Noticed that the washer seems to go through regular cycle when not under load, the minute there is a small amount of clothes in  the machine - balks. Any ideas?  Thanks.  Does anyone have a manual for this machine...
  3. My Asko W6221 washer won't start any cycles - you can hear a click like it is about to start, but then nothing happens. I happen to have two W6221 models in my house (the other one is in my in-law's section), so I swapped the main board between the two to see if that made any difference. My board worked fine in the other washer and the other board did not work in my washer. That seems to indicate it is something other than the main board. My next step is to do a best guess scenario by ordering several parts (from Repair Clinic) and do some part swapping. I'm thinking of the timer board (#8061756), Pressure Switch (#8061664), and other Pressure Switch (#8064275). If you have any other suggestions, I'm all ears.
  4. My washing machine quit working in every cycle. Happened over a few days. All blinking lites and I would push stop and then start again but then it completely quit with clothes and water inside. Would not drain spin or anything. But it is making a consistant & steady noise which sounds like it is coming from right behind the front panel. It is not a knocking or rattle or imbalance noise, it is like a dull even soft drill noise. Hard to describe. We had a weird power outage a few nights ago but I checked the breaker box and it all looks good. My central air heating unit has also quit working since the outage so I am a little suspicious. The washer did quit BEFORE the outage, just remembered that. Please help and ask me any questions. Thank you so much. Sandra
  5. About 2 months ago when got the F11 code, it eventually started working again. It then would lock the door and we would run the drain/spin cycle and it would unlock. Then we would unplug it and it would work but made beeps during cycle. Now it wouldn't run the top cycles, it lights up the mirror cycles on the bottom of the dial but it works. Just wish I knew if a new or refurbished CCU would fix. Thanks for any suggestions. I have unplugged the wiring harness at CCU and plugged back in and didn't help.
  6. Washer is performing all cycles efficiently with no audible or visual clues that its broken or not physically working properly.
  7. Already have taken everything apart and cleaned the dryer. Nothing in the exhaust and was working correctly up until a few weeks ago. Still takes more than one cycle to dry anything. The washer is spinning correctly. Burner is cycling on and off but it seems as though it's one of the sensors. Any quick checks to find out which one? Thanks in advance!!!
  8. Wife tells me today she can't get dryer to start. Followed several of the topics started by others, downloaded the Duet repair manual, followed instructions and determined door switch is no good. Rigged up a jumper to by-pass the switch to get dryer going, all is well, or so I thought. Wife then says, now that you have fixed that, can you make it so it does not take 3 and 4 cycles to dry a load? She then explains that she sets the dryer to the max temp 40 min, and it takes 3 or 4 cycles to get things dry. I go back to the repair manual and read up, this is where things get a little more complicated. Pulled the exhaust hose off and tried my best to test the exhaust temp. While I did not have a very accurate thermometer, it got pretty close to the correct temp. Since I already have to order a new door switch, should I just order a new Thermistor & Thermal Fuse? I really have no idea if either of these two parts is broken, but since they are both about $10 each, and I would have to take everything apart to test them anyway, might save myself the hassle and just replace them, I am betting it takes same time to replace as to test? Is there anything else that could be causing the dryer to take several cycles to dry a load? I did the moisture sensor test, don't get the 03 code when I touch them, but the machine does beep at me when I touch them? Any other suggestions, please advise.
  9. Hello my Fridaire Front Load wash machine model number LTF2140ES0 is not running through any cycles. When I set the dial and press start the door locks and it sucks in a little bit of water and then just stops. The door stays locked and the LED's all stay on but the machine itself doesn't do anything. When I hit the stop button it unlocks the door and won't drain or anything like that. I am wondering if this sounds like a problem which could be fixed easily or if its going to be more trouble then anything else. I have an older machine to take its place but the front load has water in it and I would like to know how to drain that. I really appreciate any advice I could get on the subject thank you in advance!