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  1. I haven't seen to much on these icemaker so I figured I would start. If anyone knows a good info source I would appreciate it. OK, here goes.  Icemaker has been leaking and when I got to this one I  couldn't even remove the icebucket. We agreed I would return after giving some time to thaw. After thawing I wasn't able to harvest using the TH jumper, so I checked for voltage. No voltage at T or H when checking both to ground. No voltage when checkin g from T-H either. I entered diagnostics and went to step 25 (icemaker fill test, see tech sheet) and checkde for voltage at T-H and now the 120V was present. I tried again a few times in both normal and diagnostics...same result. Also, the icemaker is less than a year old. Customer said he installed it himself. I can see the evidence also. He tore up the plastic cover for the harness and broke the retainer tab on the side of the icemaker. So I do believe he changed it, LOL.   So long story short, why can I harvest only in diagnostic and not in normal ? I'M part number is W10377151. Thanks for any info on this.
  2. Wondering if anyone has successfully bypassed the detergent drawer in this washing machine? Am I crazy to consider such a thing?   BACKGROUND: I am replacing the inlet valve today and had an idea to hack the system and bypass the detergent drawer by connecting hoses from the inlet valve directly to the hose that fills the washer tub. There are two reasons that let me to consider this: (1) The drawer has been stuck and unable to be opened for at least 6 months so I have not been using it. I simply add the detergent directly to the tub before loading laundry. (2) The drawer "leaks". I put leaks in quotation marks because I don't really think it is leaking, but that a very small amount of water splashes out as it fills. I can see quite a bit of rust and corrosion from years of this leaking which is probably what caused it to finally stick closed in the first place.   My idea to bypass the drawer would be to connect the three hoses to some kind of fixture which would then connect directly to the hose that fills the tub. Bad idea?   TIA, Dave
  3. Hi all, I find myself once again with water dispenser failure. I previously beat a frozen water line into submission with your kind assistance. (Read the riveting story here This time seems to be a valve issue, however. Here's why I think so, and what I've done so far: Firstly, both the water and the ice maker have stopped producing, whereas before I only lost water. Also, I have pulled the water line loose directly from the outgoing side of the valve in back of the fridge (near the coils and canister), and cannot get water flow from there when depressing the switch for the dispenser. Other info: I knew trouble was a-brewin a few months ago, when I started hearing a sputtering / chattering racket when the valve would kick open for the ice maker. At the time, I had just installed one of those "bargain" AquaFresh brand filters, so I chalked it up to that, or a bit of air in the line. I've since gone back to the the GE brand, but obviously this was not the cure. The issue persists either with the filter or the bypass plug installed. So, down to the actual questions: 1. Did the off-brand filter possibly cause this failure, or is it just coincidence? 2. Should I go ahead and replace the valve, or is there something else I should check first?
  4.     I have been asked to work on a I believe 1977 tappan propane cooktop.   The local propane company sent the customer to me.   To find the problem was easy  to find the part not so easy.   The model number is 1034 what I need is the burner gas control valve.   All the numbers on the plate for the unit goes AZ14 6311-26-1034-8649 above the 26 it says part number above the 1034 it says   model number and above the 8649 it says serial number.
  5. Version


    Subject: New Float Assembly (Mushroom Valve)   Bulletin Registration Date: 04/14/2015 Effective from Date: 04/14/2015   Applicable for models: WM3050CW, WM3250H*A, WM3370H*A, WM3470H*A, WM3570H*A, WM3650HVA, WM3997HWA WM4070H*A, WM4270H*A, WM8000H*A, WM8500HVA   Applicable Serial Number: all serial numbers prior to 504KWxxxxxxx or 504PNxxxxxxx   PUB M20150405
  6. File Name: LG Washer Service Bulletin - New Float Assembly (Mushroom Valve) File Submitter: Samurai Appliance Repair Man File Submitted: 03 Dec 2015 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Subject: New Float Assembly (Mushroom Valve)   Bulletin Registration Date: 04/14/2015 Effective from Date: 04/14/2015   Applicable for models: WM3050CW, WM3250H*A, WM3370H*A, WM3470H*A, WM3570H*A, WM3650HVA, WM3997HWA WM4070H*A, WM4270H*A, WM8000H*A, WM8500HVA   Applicable Serial Number: all serial numbers prior to 504KWxxxxxxx or 504PNxxxxxxx   PUB M20150405 Click here to download this file
  7. This stack W/D has been a real workhorse, requiring little maintenance while running 3-400 loads/year for nearly 14 years.  A couple days ago, I started a load and all seemed normal, tub began filling immediately.  I passed by the washer a few minutes later and noticed both the power and door locked lights off, so I mashed the washer start button.  No go. As long as the button was depressed, the on light would come on and the washer would attempt to start, but never fully get started.  I tried leaving the door open, depressing the door switch manually, and pressing the start button, same result.  I let it sit for an hour, or so, then opened the washer door and closed it with a little more force than normal (pretty much slammed it), hit start, and it ran through a full permanent press cycle.  I  noticed, however, the door locked light remained off (I didn't try pulling on the door while the cycle was running to test the lock).  I figured I got lucky.  I ran a load last night on Regular, beginning with a pretty good door slam and it ran through normally until some time during the second rinse and stopped, both lights off.  This time, I left the door closed and just pressed the start button.  It started back up with the power light on and after a minute or two, the door locked light came on, too.  It finished the cycle after that.   I did some searching around and found this MLE200AYW post regarding a bad Inlet Valve ( so that is one possibility.  I also wonder about the door switch itself, since a little slam seems to help it limp along.  I would much appreciate any opinions/ideas.  Thanks!   -J
  8. Wanted to find out if someone could enlighten me as to how to find, order, and replace the 3 way evaporator valve on a Samsung dual evap unit. Pretty sure this is the culprit why I am not getting cold in the freezer but am doing fine in the fridge section. Can't find this part anywhere in the diagrams and parts list. 
  9. I replaced the water inlet valve on my U-Line CLR2060 ice machine in February and it failed last week.  Of course the place I bought the part from has a 90-day warranty on parts.  Before I spend another $50 on a U-Line 2552a valve, I thought I'd check here with a thought/question:   Aren't these all pretty much the same and just have different inlet/outlet connectors and mounting brackets?  If I find a similar (i.e. 120V,60hz,20W) solenoid & valve wither either the same fittings or I adapt my fittings, won't that work?   Thanks for any input and apologies if it's a "dumb question".   
  10. My washer is really slow filling lately. Water pressure seems fine in the rest of the house and I removed the hoses to check for blockages. I reviewed the parts list and don't see any filters that could be clogged - could it be the mixer valve and is there a way to check it out? Thanks.
  11. Morning, I have a question regarding an LG Tromm washer we recently purchased from a previous owner. Washer was working fine, until recently, I noticed washer had leaked water. That got fixed on its own, then noticed that a couple of times, clothes was left damp after cycle ended. And now washer seems to get stuck on rinse cycle for quite a long time as to where it forces me to shut water off and washer itself. Water continuosly pours in non-stop for up 45 mins if I don't shut water off while display show rinse mode and minutes do not change at all. Read and did appliance test as suggested on an previous post "LG WM0642HW TROMM washer FE error" where I found out water kept on pouring in through detergent dispenser area and no water inlet what so ever when it hit the bleach area. I however do not get any error code and wanted to find out if same part numbers for water valves apply to my model? Any advice and help will be extremely appreciated as clothes are piling up, and not to mention sticky pile on floor after washer failed to properly wash or dry them prior to my giving up on sticken thing. Thank you, eager to hear any suggestions and/or ideas.      
  12. Goodman manufacturing GMPN080-4 furnace.   Ok, so one visit to my son's house yesterday for a hot water heater issue (unrelated) leads to yet another "new home owner" physical plant debacle.   He moved into the house a few months ago.     While I was out there, we looked for the furnace air filter.  Not seeing anything resembling a filter door/drawer/slide. we took to looking inside the actual cabinet.    Taking off the main side of the cabinet revealed a 16 x 21 x 1 filter just "resting" loosely against the side of the cabinet where the return air comes in.  Yes, it IS between the return and the blower, but it just sort of flaps in the breeze. When the blower starts, it pulls the filter away from the return side of the cabinet an inch or two, and I believe most of the return air just circulates around the outside of the filter.   There are no tracks, slides, doors or drawer.  It just sits against the side of the cabinet (on the inside), between the blower and the inside of the cabinet.  There is one small piece of what looks like coat hanger wire attached at the top of one corner holding it in place.  But for the most part it just flaps.   It is behind all the wires and safety interlock switch.  It does not look like the filter will come out easily. In fact, from the look of the filter, it looks like someone bent the filter in half, to get it in place, and then unfolded it. It looks pretty "jerry rigged" to me.   We have looked all over the return ducting for a filter and it appears that this is the only one.   So my questions are: 1. Is this a typical means of filtering the return air? I don't have a much experience with hot air systems, but I am very familiar with hydronic.  This just doesn't seem right to me.    2. It looks to me like I need to have an HVAC/sheet metal person come in and somehow install a "door/drawer/slide" into the return duct so we get some reasonable filtering taking place. I've never done any HVAC duct work before except for wood stove chimneys, kitchen/bathroom exhaust fans and dryer vents.  . Is this something I can do myself, or who should i call?  HVAC guy or sheet metal guy?   Thanks for your time.    Paul/NH        
  13. I have a Kenmore model 253.56512400 side by side refrigerator. The ice maker occasionally started over-filling and water would run out the dispenser chute. I shut the water supply off to the refrigerator and only turned it on when I was in the same room. I read some of the forums and replaced the water supply inlet valve with part Part number: 240531101 . Water dispenser worked, but still no water to ice maker. I then installed a new ice maker Part number: 5303918277 . Still no water. I have checked the connections to the valve and they are getting power. Switched connections for the water and ice lines, cycled the ice maker and water came out the water dispenser- pushed the water dispenser to see if the ice maker would fill and got nothing. There are no ice blockages in the supply line. We unhooked the ice maker supply line to the valve and cycled the ice maker and no water came out of the valve. All other valves are functioning. Could I have gotten a bad water valve?
  15. Konnichiwa friends,   I have an issue with a Kitchen Aid Ice Machine model #:KUIS185JBL0   I have done much research through the forums here in Appliantology, and several other sights but am finding no answers.    My question is that the hot gas valve, or reversing valve solenoid, whichever you want to call it, is failing. The ice is getting stuck on the CLEAN evaporator plate. I am going to do a continuity test on the solenoid, but I am curious about how to replace this part 759112   I am asking because I think this may be a welding job, and I want to be prepared if so.    Thanks for taking the time for answering my Grasshoppa question.   sinceriously,  Wayne (future Master Samurai Tech enrolee)      . 
  16. Gas Valve Circuit Quiz

    From the album Dryer Repair

  17. I have tested every component and all test good. The top coil gets 90 vdc, the ignitor glows, the flame sensor closes and gets 120 vac but the bottom coil never receives 90vdc. Should I assume that I need a new control board or a new gas valve? I am unsure if board sends seperate 90 vdc or if the coils are bad the voltage will not transfer to the other. I sent a pm to Lg John but not sure if I will receive a response because he has been inactive for a while. Please Help!  
  18. Frigidaire refrigerator FRS26LF7DS7 has no water entering ice maker. Installed new valve first and later, new ice maker and still no water enters ice maker. Ice maker cycles but no water comes in. Water dispenser side works fine. Filter assembly is okay, too. Any ideas on what to check for next on this model? 
  19. Version Evernote enex ZIP


    Service bulletin from Electrolux on how to diagnose these mult-coil water inlet valves. Although an Electrolux bulletin, the principles apply many other brands. Evernote enex ZIP
  20. File Name: How to Properly Diagnose a Water Valve- Single, Triple, and Quadruple Solenoid Valves File Submitter: Samurai Appliance Repair Man File Submitted: 16 Nov 2014 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Service bulletin from Electrolux on how to diagnose these mult-coil water inlet valves. Although an Electrolux bulletin, the principles apply many other brands. Evernote enex ZIP Click here to download this file
  21. After gas ignites and burns for a few minutes, the broil burner consistently ignites a "fireball" that blows the oven door open.  It NEVER happens with the bake burner.  History:  Customer replaced both ignitors (bake ignitor was out, at his discretion he replaced both).  Another field tech came in to look at fireball problem, but was no help.  Not really sure what he did or didn't touch. I checked the dual safety valve.  It was not cutting gas off after voltage was cut. (ie:"OFF" at oven control touch pad). Burner continued for 25~30 seconds consistently.  I replaced the dual safety valve, pn#5303208499. Electronic leak detector (Amprobe) found a small leak at the cap on the pressure regulator (see post: Gas leak - Frigidaire Range Jan 1/2011).  The regulator cap faces the oven cavity, so I assumed it may contribute to the gas buildup.  I replaced regulator pn#316091706.  Oddly, the new one does the same thing. Checked the broiler air mix adjustment, brass mixer elbow & spud cap adjustment inside the oven cavity.   Checked all lines for leaks, especially the broiler tube all the way into oven cavity. ABSOLUTELY NO LEAKS ANYWHERE, yet the problem continues, and only when the broiler is active.   For now, broil ignitor disconnected until the problem sleuthed. My only thought:  Though both bake and broil functions now ignite and shut off quickly on que, could wiring at safety valve, if crossed, create some type of pressure problem???  Any direction would be greatly appreciated.  Domo!   Frigidaire Gas Range FGF Tech Sheet.pdf
  22. This unit is throwing a LF code. Unit will start to fill up and at the start of the agitation will throw the LF code and drain.   Have check all of the following according to the service manual   Drain hose position Water supply on and clean screens.  Good flow into a bucket when unhooked Pressure hose clean, clear and tight   Manual Diagnostics   All valves engaged Spin cycle functioned Agitate Cycles all worked   Water valve tested off with the meter Tech sheet show 790-840 ohms The meter show 1300-1320 ohms   So I order new water valve and installed, still throws the LF code. New valve shows 1300-1320 ohms   Are the numbers correct on the tech sheet or is the brand new valve bad.  Ordered OEM part from Partselect.   Anyone have this part in inventory to check the ohms on this part #W10342320   Any help appreciated   Thanks  
  23. I have the Miele 2470 scvi that shows an f18 error.  Per service manual "If an F18 fault is displayed The water inlet valve is open when it should not be (signal to open it has not been given by the electronic module). Water then flows into the appliance and unexpected pulses from the flow meter B3/4 are detected.   1. Check the Water Inlet Valve for proper operation (may be stuck in open position).  a. Gain access to the water inlet valve.  b. Start a wash program  c. Place your hand around the inlet valve during the water inlet step. You should feel a vibration indicating that the valve is energized.  d. At the end of the water inlet step the valve should be de-energized. If water is still entering the machine, replace the water          inlet valve.  e. Check for interference pulses. Electrical components within the water diverter could be interfering with the pulses produced by the flow meter. Troubleshoot accordingly and replace the water diverter if necessary. " The inlet valve is vibrating and water entering the machine from the moment the machine is turned on and door closed no matter what wash program or service mode I try.  When I open the door, the valve closes properly and water flow stops. Even in service mode "U7.  Vacant" as soon as I close the door, the valve opens and water pours in.  This has me thinking valve is working properly and flow meter is working properly because when starting a program and only a drain cycle should be operating, it is reading water flow and throws the F18 code.   Could it be a control board or could their be something (relay or something) between the control board and valve that is not releasing.   Ideas?Dave
  24. When I start the dishwasher, it goes through a short drain cycle, tries to fill, does another drain cycle, sounds like it tries to fill again, and stops and lights the Clean light. This takes a little over 2 minutes. Today I discovered that I can get it to complete the cycle if I open and close the door during the second drain cycle. I tested the drain pump by adding water and holding up the float valve. The water drained easily. I ran the diagnostic and it indicates a problem with the drain pump. I've replaced the control panel, the power module, and the door latch (Hall sensor). No luck. I'm considering replacing the drain pump or the fill valve at this point, but I'm running out of ideas.
  25. I'm replacing the cold water inlet valve on my Kenmore washer.  I read your how to here, but it simply said to remove the wires.    My problem is that the tabs the connectors wires are in are _very_ firmly attached to the tabs on the old valve.  That combined with the fact that the wires are about as thick as a hair and my paws are kind of gnarled and arthritic makes me afraid to just force them off - I might break the wire(s).   Is there a trick or a special tool needed to do this?  There's a picture below of what the connectors look like.   Also while I have your ear, when I connect the new ones, should I give the metal tabs on the valve a smear of dielectric grease before snapping them in?   Thannk you.   (Sorry for the giganto image.  I don't know how to size them with this richtext control.)