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Found 525 results

  1. Bosch HBN755AUC-00 Built-in Double Oven Schematic View File PUB 58300000006337 Submitter Samurai Appliance Repair Man Submitted 02/02/2016 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper
  2. Version 1.0.0

    9 downloads

    PUB 58300000006337
  3. First time post! I've got a Kenmore Electric Range #790.92109010; I'm guessing around 8 years old. I just noticed a rather high pitched soft noise during preheat (400*), and once it reached the desired temp, the oven kept on clicking on and off (much more than normal...every 5-10 seconds). I noticed that the oven power light kept on clicking on and off as well.  The stovetop seems to do something similar; working fine if it is turned on high, but quickly cutting on and off (faster than usual) during heating (medium low heat).  The clock and other functions seem to work fine. I took the back off to check for any loose wiring to power cord or operating board; all looks in good condition. The only thing I have done to it recently is reattach the display when it broke off. Thoughts? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!
  4. GE J7850001 Americana Range Schematic and Wiring Diagram View File An old double oven slide in range.  PUB 371D483P3 Submitter Patricio Submitted 01/20/2016 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper
  5. Version 1.0.0

    20 downloads

    An old double oven slide in range.  PUB 371D483P3
  6. Last night, the missus put the oven in self-cleaning mode.  The oven started making a rattling noise as if a pack of live squirrels were being incinerated.    This morning, the squirrels are still banging around the oven and the door is stuck in the locked position.  The only way to end the racket was to remove the bottom drawer and pull the electrical connector.  I thought this might reset the oven, but no luck.  Searching the forum, I see that self cleaning is the kiss of death.  Did the wife murder the oven last night?  Also, is there any harm in using the stove top, with the electrical unplugged?  I know the igniter won't work, but otherwise it seems OK.  Thank you, and happy new year!     
  7. GE JTP70SP2SS Wall Oven Minimanual View File PUB 31-14861-6 Submitter abaesemann Submitted 01/14/2016 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper
  8. Version 1.0.0

    9 downloads

    PUB 31-14861-6
  9. Kenmore 790.48443410 Double Wall Oven Tech Sheet View File PUB A00980607 Submitter Samurai Appliance Repair Man Submitted 01/11/2016 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper
  10. Version

    8 downloads

    PUB A00980607
  11. Thermador SEC302BS-02 Oven Schematic and Wiring Diagram View File Schematic 58300000104514 Wiring Diagram 58300000110187 Submitter Samurai Appliance Repair Man Submitted 01/03/2016 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper
  12. Version 1.0.0

    24 downloads

    Schematic 58300000104514 Wiring Diagram 58300000110187
  13. the electricity went out a while back, gas oven wouldn't come on.  Finally found online manual, talked about setting digital clock, did that.  Since then, the oven was finicky as far as if it came on or not.  Friday it would not come on at all.  The stovetop works though.  Do not smell gas when putting oven on.  Can't figure out where the pilot light is & manual doesn't say where it is.   Lisa S
  14. File Name: Thermador SCD302T SCD272T SC302T SC301T S272 Built-in Wall Oven Service Manual File Submitter: Samurai Appliance Repair Man File Submitted: 31 Dec 2015 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper PUB 58300000002793 Click here to download this file
  15. I have a thermador model # s272tb. The lower oven will put up a fr code,can not find anything on this code. Any help would be great. Thanks
  16. We have a Viking VEDO205-SS Double Oven that we are having temp control issues with.  (Don't give me crap about buying the Viking ... it came with the house we bought ... I personally like GE ovens.)  The temps have been "off" for a long time.  For a few years we just thought it was because we weren't used to having a nice, fancy oven.  Then I finally bought a thermometer and figured out these things are just bad.   The upper oven runs HOT, and has been getting progressively worse.  As of now you have to set it right about 150 to get 350 in the oven.   We don't use the lower oven much, but we know it runs cold.  I don't think it's as far off as the upper oven.   We have been compensating by just using our thermometer, but things are so bad in the upper oven now that it is almost unusable.  (We don't use lower because we have young kids.)  I had called the local "approved" service people once, they said it would be really expensive because it could be any number of things.  They made it sound like they would try something, and if that didn't work they'd try something else, and I'd get to pay as we went.  I passed on that offer.   I am trying to figure out whether or not I want to mess with attempting a repair, would appreciate any thoughts or comments on:   (1)  Do you think this is most likely a thermostat problem or something else?  If not the thermostat, would do you think it is?  The controls are very "touchy" ... SMALL movements in the dial give you big changes in oven temp.  I did replace the upper oven element a couple of years ago, but the temp was off prior to that.   (2)  I managed to find some info on doing the repairs and found out the thermostats are attached to the back of the control panel.  I haven't pulled the unit from the wall yet ... is removing or getting access to the control panel horribly difficult?  It seems that it might be fairly easy, with four screws on the top/sides of the unit.  But that could just be a piece of trim.  I am not a repair tech, but am pretty comfortable tearing stuff apart and getting it back together with minimal leftover parts.  I have replaced washer fill valves, installed my own dishwasher and disposals, all with no ill effects.   (3)  I found one post that said the thermostat part numbers were pj030003 (upper) and pj030012 (lower).  Can anyone confirm those are correct?   (4)  Assuming I can get into the control panel, is replacing the thermostats relatively straight-forward/common sense?  The parts pictures that I have seen show them coming with new temp probes, don't know if that gets really complex or not.   (5)  Both ovens currently have two temp probes, the parts I have seen only show one with the new stat.  Do you end up using just one probe going forward, or what happens there?   (6)  While I have the oven out, I might replace the front control panel ... when trying to scrub grease off it once we removed a fair amount of the painted-on labels.  (These things are really pieces of crap ... they vent air out the front, right under the control panel, so that you get an oily residue.  Then when you clean it the labels come off.  Stupid.)  Other than being tedious because there are so many controls to remove and re-install, are there any surprises in trying to replace the control panel?  Is it much more difficult to physically remove it vs. just getting access to the thermostats?  I found a part number for the control panel/face plate of B9202924.  Is that correct?   My thanks to everyone for taking time to comment/assist/share knowledge!
  17. Hello all,       I have a double cavity Wolf oven that is giving me some issues in only the one oven compartment. When you turn on the oven, you can hear the click and the gas begins to release but there is no spark. If you light it with a lighter it will heat up but as soon as it tries to cycle it will not light again. So opened up the unit as I suspected a bad spark module. I accessed both of the spark modules and I swapped the pilot assembly from the oven that won't light to the opposite oven cavity's spark module. As I suspected, the pilot assembly would spark in that spark module so I went to order a new spark module. I had to get the part from  Adco as Sub-Zero informed me that parts for this model are only available from Adco. So Adco explains to me that the original part is no longer made and that it has been replaced by a universal spark module, part # 720384K. The part came with instructions stating that the new spark module needs to have a direct connection to the live (black) end of the main power terminal. Long story short I hooked up this new spark module and you can hear it clicking. But for some reason it will not spark inside the oven cavity. Has anyone had any experience with this spark module? Do I maybe have it hooked up to the wrong power supply and its not getting enough juice to transfer the spark down the pilot assembly? Just kind of at a loss because you can hear and see the spark in the spark module, but it wont transfer down the pilot assembly. I even had a new pilot assembly on me just in case both had gone bad, but the new pilot assembly will not spark as well. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance oh wise ones.
  18. does anyone have the wiring diagram/tech for this model thanks
  19. I have the exact same ice maker as you video ( ). My maker just suddenly stopped making ice. The optics check out OK per your video description, two blinking lights when sensor blocked and steady light when sensor not blocked. When I did the jumper motor test, the motor started and initiated the harvest cycle. It expelled the old ice left in the tray and then it even filled the tray again with water. I thought that perhaps having done this the unit was reset so I emptied the water from the tray so I could reassemble the unit back in the freezer and waited for it to make ice but nothing after at least 48 hours. Any other suggestions would be very much appreciated.
  20. This is a glass top slide-in range.  Four burners plus oven  Nothing fancy.   Oven vent does not seem to be working.  I know there is a tube connecting the oven with the little vent at the rear of the glass cooktop but nothing comes out of it. i have a long cook time odorous cooking project and normally just turn on the range hood fan on low and that takes the odor out.  This time odor seem to be coming out the top of the oven door along with some heat of course. Is there a filter or screen of some sort that perhaps is clogged?
  21. It's taking forever for it to get cold!   My last freezer had a similar issue and it was due to lack of Freon (or refrigerant). Many speculated that it was due to an internal leak.    I couldn't risk all of my food going bad to a possible future and sudden breakdown, so I needed to return it ASAP.   After persistently contacting the store that sells these used freezers over the course of days, they finally replace it today.   And instead of this freezer using Freon gas, it uses something called R134A. This upright freezer can store up to 5.3 Oz. (149 Grams) of it.       My main concern now is that it has been 3 hours since it was delivered and it's not freezing cold yet!!    I plugged it in and it's not cold or freezing temperature!! The store staff said to wait for at least an hour after plugging it in for better results, but I don't see any better results!!   I really, really hope there isn't a leak in this one too! It seems like it may be low on refrigerant, such is a bad sign...     Here are some pictures of this product: https://tinyurl.com/h3onvap   Here is the video to hear want the freezer sounds like: https://tinyurl.com/glfoctg  
  22. Made a call today for a frozen freezer warm refrigerator.  Parts house did not have bimetal, control board or thermistor in stock, have to make a order from ware house 2 days away.  Client is a friend who makes killer tamales. (Yea I work for food).  Cant put into defrost with normal WP key dances.   Evaporator solid block of ice.  Compressor just pumping away.  Temp -14.   Defrost with steamer to get access to limit.    Limit looks OK  will  meter it when I put into diagnostic defrost cycle.Freezer Thermistor is in channel running to light receptacle at front of freezer. As I work at melting ice I notice that refrigerator door switch controls Evap fan.   nothing else unb usual.    Have way thru job I push & hold on off button on user interface control board.   Lights on interface power off as well as Evap & condenser fans.  Compressor keeps on pumping.    Hit the evap coils with stem which melts frost & it frosts right back up.   Thinking control board got to be a little bonkers.   Pull up a service sheet for a 106.74202402 here on Apliantology,  close enough I guess.  Entry into diagnostic mode is different than I have done before.  Tomorrow I will try to put it into defrost to see if it will go before ordering a new board.   This unit is 10 years old, something I have not seen.  Even the IM is different, has a squirrel cage fan mounted to the module head.     All positive comments welcomed  I am leaning toward new board.
  23. I'm trying to repair an Estate oven for a customer. The oven lights and stays lit for 30 seconds to a minute and then shuts off. I've checked the oven sensor, it was good. Ignitor is good. Decided it must be the board, so replaced the computer board. It still does the same thing. What else could it be? Thanks for your help. Ted
  24. Version

    34 downloads

    Enhanced Multimedia edition!   W10807512