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  1. The dryer has an intermittent problem. It will run then shut off before finished (random run time) it can't be restarted and has no light at all. No drum or control lights. If the dryer is unplugged for a bit it will operate just fine again. Has 240v to machine. (it will never "re-power" unless unplugged) It does not matter if the vent is hooked up or not. It doesn't matter if the machine is full of laundry or empty either. I've ohm'd all the different sensors I can reach with the front of the dryer off and they all check out ok. It's not an overheat issue either I'm leaning towards a bad board on this one. Any thoughts?
  2. Washer started a wash cycle and suddenly stopped.  Verified power to the back of the front panel (Pin#1 and Pin#3, at CN5 per Samsung tech info). The tech info indicates an AC POWER CHECK at (Pin#1 of CN5 and Piin#1 of CN6) except I do not see a CN6 on the schematic or on the board. After looking closely at the back of the front pane, some components appeared to have gotten hot or were discolored.  So having little else to go on, I ordered a new front panel. Installing new front panel did not resolve the problem.  There are clothes in washer of course and a little water.  Of course, the door is latched.  If anyone knows how to override the door latch, that would be helpful.  Any ideas of how to proceed would be appreciated. This is a Samsung WF 337 AAW / XAA model about (8) years old.  Never had any issues until this event.
  3. Someone closed the lid on washing machine with a sleeve caught in the lid lock, after removing, tested everything worked fine. Wife did couple loads. Now the machine has no lights, noises, or energizing. Verified power to the unit.
  4. My dishwasher controls have no power after 3 washes that ended with an incomplete pump-out. The breaker is good. Does anyone have a parts list for this model and a troubleshooting tip for this type of failure? Thanks
  5. Hello. I saw a similar post from 2006 but would like some clarification on change a 4 prong power cord to a 3 prong. My dryer has two green wires, which I guess are gound wires, attached to the metal behind the 3 screw terminal block. My understanding is that I need to have a ground wire attached to the middle, neutral, wire and the housing of the dryer. Can I use one or both of these green wires behind the terminal block instead?
  6. Greetings!   I have had a Fisher & Paykel GWL10US for about 15 years, and it finally went out for no apparent reason.  When I hit the power button, no lights go on, but I hear a soft mechanical humming near the water intake valves (top left of machine) -- Not sure if it's from the electrical parts right near the water intake (under top panel to left of main logic board assembly) or if its from a part hidden behind the rear cover.    Diagnostics fail to show -- Just the same soft mechanical humming.   How would I go about diagnosing further? Is it worth it?  I saw no posts that cover this situation; only posts for zero power or where diagnostics could be read.   Thanks!    
  7. Household 120 / 240 Single-Phase 3-Wire Power Distribution

    From the album Miscellaneous

  8. Hello gurus.  Hoping for a bit of help with my 12+ year old Fisher & Paykel GWL10 washer.     The washer suddenly stopped powering on.  I turned the washer on its front to check the diverter valve and water/waste pump.  I then noticed the pump 'buzzes' when the power button is pushed.  So, thinking the pump failed, I ordered a new pump and installed it today.  Unfortunately, this did not rectify the problem.   I had replaced the diverter valve about 3-4 years ago.  And with no power, I'm not able to get any diagnostics.  There were no other problems prior to this and the last wash completed successfully.   Any other ideas?
  9. I've got a Kenmore d/w mod: 665.665.13742k603 that will not power on.  I have already checked and confirmed:   1)120VAC at outlet and to terminal block under d/w 2) voltage to the main control board 3) both door switchs 5) Door latch functions normal 4) thermal fuse has continuity   This leaves either the touchpad/control panel (p/n: 1551936) at $133.50, or the main control board (p/n: 1874821) at $195.65 as the cause of failure.   My question is: how can I determine which one it is without purchasing both expensive electronic components and simply part swapping?    Thanks
  10. Hi! So I got up this morning and started loading the dishwasher. My 1 year old decided he was going to "help" me by holding the top of the door while opening and closing it repeatedly. I tried turning it on after that and nothing. No lights or sounds coming from it at all. I flipped the breaker, took the power supply wires off and put them back on then turned the breaker back on but still nothing. Any ideas what I can do next? Thanks!
  11. Duet purchased in 2004, has gone dead. The only clue is a repeating pattern of slow start ups after "add a garment", and a power outage during a rare electrical storm in San Diego. After that no power, no clicks, no panel or water, no anything.  Is it a CCU, a Motor U, or a user interface or a communications error???
  12. Oh Great One, I have a washing machine that the start button is very hard to push and feels like it is on the verge of failing. If I push it just right it works but sometimes it takes some fiddling..   In searching the web it appears that the start switch is part of a $180 or so control assembly or maybe just a $20 start button.   I have not torn into this machine yet and the idea of a $180 control assembly doesn't sound like fun to me.    Is there some trick to this machine and is there a fix (unless I just need a new button) that I can perform on this machine without replacing the control assembly.   Thanks  
  13. G.E. ZIDI240PA11

    GE under counter 2 drawer frig. Customer complaint of display and upper drawer light going out. Bottom drawer light ok. Has to push and hold on / off button for 3-5 seconds to get it back on. Says drawer warms up. Have not been able to recreate problems and found nothing such as loose connections or broken wires, although I do suspect broken wire just can't find. Any suggestions? Thanks
  14. Hi...   I received an F21 error code, which is a drain issue. I followed the instructions, cleaned out the catch at the wasn't so dirty...plugged it all back in and now I get no power at all. Absolutely nothing. Yes, the outlet works just fine, I tested and retested it. The door keeps locking so I manually opened it. Help!
  15. Electromechanical relay failure on Power Board       My 82 year-old mom’s left front burner failed some months ago. Last night she did something with the controls and noticed that the burner came on! Then it went off. She fiddled with the controls again. At some point, white smoke was pouring out; enough so that she was quite alarmed. She called me as she tripped the circuit breaker. I opener her up (the range, not my mom) and took a look-see. I am calling it a blown relay requiring a power board replacement.    Check out my photos and please tell me if I am on the right track, and if I've overlooked anything.   Photo link:   Main question:  What causes an electromechanical relay failure on a power board such as the one found on this range?   Is Power Board replacement the correct first remedy?   (please follow link above and see shot of whole back of range) Need I have any concern over...   1) Stain on "box"?   2) Discoloration around, and rising up from ... whatever the round thing is?   3a) Marks rising from fan motor assembly? 3b) Material dripping down from fan motor assy? (see close-up shot)   What should I ask (or do) that I have failed to ask about (or do)?   Replace the board?   Thanks in advance,    DrCarl   Frigidaire Model: PLEF398ACA Power Board: Spitfire Controls – 316239403  ESEC5 Pwr Brd
  16. My Kenmore washer model 40272900 won't turn on at all.  The outlet works, but nothing happens when I push the power button.  No click or any other noise when I plug it in.  We haven't had any trouble or error codes with it before.  Any help is much appreciated.  Thanks!
  17. Hi there!   I found an extremely helpful video on YouTube after my LG washer decided it was going to die mid-cycle and not power back up, video here -  After going through the tests in the video, I replaced my noise filter and the main PCB, as the filter was not outputting any power and the main PCB indicator LED was not illuminated.   After replacing the noise filter, I was able to verify power leaving it and heading to the original main PCB, in which the LED still wasn't lighting up.  At that point, I replaced the main PCB, and the new one doesn't seem to be working either.  The only difference I seem to notice is a clicking sound.  After I connect the new main PCB, and I provide the machine with power, the PCB clicks twice and then does nothing.  If I press the Power button on the washer, it makes the same clicks.  There are 2x clicks, about a second apart, and then nothing.   I've tested the power coming into the unit from the wall and it's steady/correct. I tested the noise filter again, just to make sure nothing blew out again for any reason, and its still working fine.  I'm now at a loss for what might be happening.  I'm still happy to attempt to troubleshoot it myself, without paying a ton for a service call, but I'm not sure what else to be looking for at this point.    Any suggestions?
  18. Hi All, My washer pump burned out the other night. Just Installed new one but have no power. Removed control cover hoping to find a fuse but nothing, Any help is greatly appreciated. Peter
  19. Hi -   Our "new" (used) washer/dryer combo is only being used for the dryer right now before the bathroom remodel is complete. Just the other day, it didn't finish the dry cycle and when I turned it on it had a pF code (power failure, I found out). It restarted after I turned it off and on and all was fine. Now it won't turn on at all. I investigated a little bit and found a warped piece of plastic in the "Electrical Noise Filter"...looks like somehow it got too hot.    Thinking this was the problem, I searched for testing the noise filter and I found this website and the blog post below and checked the way he said to check. This led me to the main board being the problem.   I checked that though, in the same way, and that shows 120V as well. Is there another way to check??? What else could be wrong?    Thanks.
  20. I replaced the front panel touch pad about 1.5 months ago. The lights were blinking and it would not run properly. This seemed to solve the problem until yesterday. The dishwasher(DW) went through the cycle however it did not drain and appears to be dead - no power. Checked the breaker box and that was ok. Any ideas - this is my daughter's DW so I have not had a chance to look at it. Thermal fuse? Any other ideas?
  21. I have replaced the control board and front panel all within the last 6 months.  Now no power on my  kitchenaid KUDP01ILBS3 dishwasher.  Any ideas how to check what the problem is - can it be that the latch is not engaging. Worked for 5 min then no drain and   No lights
  22. I have a whirlpool gold dishwasher that's has a blown thermal fuse on the pcb. This is the second fuse that has blown in 2 weeks. I noticed when you replace the a door switch you have to by a kit. The kit comes with a new harness that has to be spliced in. Question: 1) any ideas on why the fuse keeps blowing? 2) does the kit fix an issue with blowing fuses?
  23. I have a Dacor Double Oven model CPTS227 that will not do anything after a power surge, no lights, beeps,squeeks, nothing, nada. I did the circuit breaker thing....turned the breaker off for 30 minutes and then back on, but still nothing. I have 120 volts at L1 and N, and 23 volts AC at test points 14 & 15. What do I do now? Thanks!
  24. First of all, lid strike is missing. No control panel LED's light up. Diagnostic LED is lit on control and 13VDC is present at j2-3 to j2-4. Does the lid switch need to be activated to make control function? Does this sound like a bad control?
  25. Have power to unit, have power at push button switch down to door sensor. No lights on display. Any common problems