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  1. I'm wrestling with a defrost issue with Frigidaire side by side. Had it serviced by a tech due to a drop in temp and alarm beeping. Coils were completely encased in ice. After manually defrosting, heater and defrost thermostat were tested to be within spec. Conclusion of the tech was " bad main control board". Quoted price was 300.00 plus labor. I sourced the part locally (new) and replaced it myself. Fridge came to temp quickly and held with no issues for about a week then the same symtoms appeared - back wall and coils completely iced over, obviously not defrosting. What do I look at next?
  2. My Maytag washer (MDB8959SBS2) is acting possessed as of late. Lately, it has started beeping fits (it just randomly beeps) and getting the dishwasher to select the correct profile is a game of wack a mole. Additionally, now it has a blinking "control lock" light that will not extinguish even after the dishwasher has been power cycled. I took apart the front panel and checked and I can see plenty of corrosion inside the flat ribbon cable between the control panel and ECU. After I cleaned the connector as best I could, I put it back together and ran a normal cycle. After the cycle ran and appears to have completed, it started the random beeping again. Additionally, now the control lock light is blinking and I can't seem to get it out of this state. Thanks in advance for you help! Nate
  3.     I have been asked to work on a I believe 1977 tappan propane cooktop.   The local propane company sent the customer to me.   To find the problem was easy  to find the part not so easy.   The model number is 1034 what I need is the burner gas control valve.   All the numbers on the plate for the unit goes AZ14 6311-26-1034-8649 above the 26 it says part number above the 1034 it says   model number and above the 8649 it says serial number.
  4. LG bottom freezer has ER DH on display. OK, First of all, this fridge does not have a cooling issue and does not have ice building up in the freezer. Defrost heater and terminator are closed. Defrost thermistor is showing correct readings. The board does defrost in test mode. Customer explained the fridge made some loud clicking noises repeatedly and then had the error. He explained that a week or two later the same noise was heard and the error has now gone away. It has continued without error for 2 days now. I reccomend starting out by changing the thermistor/terminator assembly but I am betting it's the board. Maybe someone has seen this issue before. Also, I have had quite a few LGs that have had wiring issues, I found this by trying to test the DF heater from the board and read open, but when going in the replace the heater it tested food. This issue may be happening intermittently. ANY help is aprecciated.
  5. Bosch SHE45M05UC/56   The unit has experienced a number of issues recently 1. Not heating, reset breaker that helped (but I ordered a new control board just in case)   2. Overfilling, water everywhere.  It was draining forever until i read about flood mode.  Drained the water from the pan and that took care of that.   I changed the control board, Quick Wash cycle starts normally but fills longer than usual and continues to fill even when the unit is switched-off.     Is the float switch 00165256 the culprit?   I cleaned the control assembly and it seems to be clicking properly.   Test button routine gives me a C6/PO in the display.   (This may be irrelevant but I replaced a cracked fascia panel recently but was careful to replace the buttons in order.)   Any help would be appreciated.  Thank you.
  6. Had a call today and if it hasn't been discussed here already, hopefully if you run into the symptoms down the road you will remember reading this and it saves you some time. It is covered in wpl service pointer #w10666199. Symptoms of this fridge were erratic display, door ajar lights staying on then not working at all, showing PF multiple times daily, bottom deli drawer control blank, no ice production and nothing happened when ice or water dispenser lever pushed. I had trouble trying to go through diagnostics and was about to leave and order a main control board. I found water on the floor of the fridge compartment under the deli drawer from an apparent spill, removed the screws to get the deli user interface board out and found a wet ui board. I unplugged the little ui board, shook and blew on the connector, plugged the fridge back in and everything started to work fine. I left the deli ui board unplugged until I get back with the new one which I had to order. Surprised that I haven't ran into this before and curious to see if the new part # comes with a better seal of some type.
  7. Our HE3t is not draining. We keep getting SUD and F02 error codes. Worst part is, the door will not unlock either. We cleaned out the catch and made sure the hoses were clear and not kinked. We ran it with the panel off and can hear the pump making noises like something is lose. This is a two part request...   1. How can we get the door open? 2. Can you point us towards the correct part and instructions on how to replace it?   Thank you! Pamela
  8. My dryer control panel seems to have shorted.  I am wondering if anyone has a schematic that would allow me to see if I can fix the board.  I have nothing to lose since the dryer is defunct and I cannot afford 275.00 for a  new panel.  The main symptom was a loud click and the dryer acted as if it were counting down the time, but no movment of the drum.  I tested the panel and it seem most definitly the problem although the lcds and the keys all seem to work according the the diagnostic test.  The motor seems fine as well. Is it possible to reapair the board and if you know how could you share it with me? Thanks in advance.
  9. My dishwasher controls have no power after 3 washes that ended with an incomplete pump-out. The breaker is good. Does anyone have a parts list for this model and a troubleshooting tip for this type of failure? Thanks
  10. Any GE warrantee serviceman out there with experience replacing defective control panel on this particular wall oven GE JTP30SM2SS.   Touch panel is bubbling & manufacturer sent replacement control Board to customer under recall warranty.   I am asked to do replacement of panel.   Going site unseen although never being lazy have researched not only on appliantology but other sites as well.   Unable to find what I am searching for so I am looking for help in the technique of getting the job done with out any unforeseen difficulties.  All constructive advice is appreciated.   Note:  Durham I do not want to waste your time or invoke your wrath so please ignore this request.  i care about your health & do not wish to raise your blood pressure, save that for the younger folks.   Peace you old fart
  11. When my wife started up our KitchenAid (KUDMO1TJWH1) built by Whirlpool, it filled with water and ran briefly but stopped.  The D/W is run on "Normal" with a drying cycle.  However, once stopped the "Hi-Temp Scrub" light blinks.  When I press the "Cancel" button, the "Normal" and "Cancel" and "Hi-Temp Scrub" lights blink.  I tried cutting the power at the circuit breaker and reset it.  All lights went and stayed out.  Pressed "Normal" again and the pump started up for about 30 sec and shut down.  Got the blinking lights again.  Repeated cutting power at circuit breaker and resetting it but pump did not restart when pressing "Normal."  Reading the Whirlpool "Do-it-Yourself" manual it looks like this could be a Control Board problem or a Control Console Cover/Touchpanel issue.  How does one tell which?  Both replacement parts are significant investments.
  12. My venerable LG WM1812CW front-loader has started throwing error code DE (0E on the 7-segment display). The first observation was that the machine was making a horrible noise as it entered the drain/spin cycle, which is when the code was thrown.   I put it in diagnostic mode, and it turns the drum quietly. Launching straight into the spin cycle though, and the horrible noise is back.   I pulled a couple of rusty bobby pins (three daughters and a wife...yeah, expected) and other detritus out of the pump filter. Noise is still there.   Cleaned up all the water on the floor (from opening the filter), removed the top, and confirmed resistance on the drain pump is at 14 ohms. Well within spec of 10-40 ohms. Pump is clearly getting juice since it's noisy.   Disassembled the front and removed the pump assembly, and took the pump off the works.   The impeller isn't turning smoothly at all. It jumps, and takes some effort. Here's a cool 12s video from my wonderphone:!105507&authkey=!AGa9enwOpQqrlyI&ithint=video%2cmp4   So, this pump looks bad to y'all, right? Anything else I should check?
  13. We are seeing quite a few of the main control boards for these units coming in for rebuild. The boards are failing in a variety of ways, causing symptoms like intermittent cooling, flashing display, adaptive defrost not converging, evaporator icing up, etc.   The boards are hard to find but we can rebuild the original for you. We currently have some inventory also. Typical Model Numbers: KBUDT4855E KBUDT4855E01 KBUDT4860A02 KBUDT4865E01 KBUDT4865E03 KBUDT4875E/01 KBULT3675E01 Main Control Board Part Numbers: 00656502 643635 653194 656502 865741
  14. I am trying to replace the pump/motor assembly in my dishwasher.  Unfortunately, it seems that it's so old (at least 15 years) that the model number isn't listed anywhere online.  I ordered the part that was listed as the replacement for all washers made after 1970 (Part number: WD26X10013 ) but my existing pump doesn't look like any of the removal/replacement illustrations in the instructions.  I'm having trouble seeing how this part will fit, as the connection to the impeller doesn't seem to be the simple hose that all of the videos show.  IOW, even after I have disconnected all hoses, wires, and the hanger, I cannot simply "remove" the motor. Any help at all, even "You're SOL - just return the part" would be useful at this point!
  15. the panel was stuck on sensor dry/ start pause and machine wouldnt start.I could press time dry and start/pause at the same time to change drying modes but machine still wouldnt start. unplugging wouldnt reset it the panel lights come on  sequentially. any advice on how to get the machine to reset/start?
  16. I need help finding information about the code in the defrost blinking light and/or wiring diagram to isolate the problem of no running of the compressor except for unplug and then replug and unit goes into defrost mode momentarily then shuts down.
  17. Greetings Appliantologists!   The wife and I let our screeching washer go too long before addressing the problem and it is now dead. No power.   I have: Unplugged it, waited several minutes, and plugged it back in with no change.  
  18. Hi everybody. Having a hell of a time with this oven. original complaint: display intermittently on. 1st service call: display not on. Getting power to board. Send board into and have it repaired. Also decide to replace transformer since second winding is out of range (tech sheet say winding should be 2-4 ohms and i'm getting like 8-9. Other winding is good at 95 ohms. (original part #4451891. replacement part #9760587) 2 weeks later, i've got the fixed board and transformer in hand. 2nd Service call-Install transformer, Install board, everything looks good, display is on. Fire up bake on both ovens. No heat. End up tracing it to no power at L2. Go check breaker and realize its not fully seated. Seat breaker. (Please note that i was flipping breaker on and off at all appropriate times) Go back to oven, press bake-default 350, then go to press start and nothing. Start button not functioning. I somewhat jiggle ribbon connector (although i believe it to be fully seated) while pressing start and OVEN STARTS! Getting hot! Nice! Press cancel. Try to start again, start button not working. "jiggle" trick never works again. Flip breaker try to seat ribbon again, still doesn't work. ALSO, about half the touch panel buttons are not working at this point. No 'diode' test given in tech sheet. For the hell of it i decide check transformer windings . Replacement windings 65 ohms and 9 ohms. Tech sheet specifies 95 ohms and 2-4 ohms i believe. Is this crucial??? and could have possibly burned the diodes out?? Last piece to this nightmare is that i notice a little piece of 'shrapnel' on the female-board side ribbon connector. Thinking maybe it was preventing the ribbon connector from fully making contact, i kind of prod at it with a dental pick and realize that its like a little 'silver?' coating of the connector pins. and it scrapes off..... Customer not happy that he's got to fork over another $200 for a new touch panel now, and i'm HOPING that when i go back there, the touch panel even fixes it! AND that it will make contact with the ribbon connector even... SO... I guess my question pertain to the transformer and any ill affect the replacement could have on board or touch panel.  AND, whether or not the ribbon will still conduct/make contact without the fine silver layer on metal tab, and if theres a possible fix/substance i can lay on there if the problem persists with new touch panel installed? it seems actually soldering something so small would be out of my skill set.. Sorry if this has been a run-on ramble ..... Just trying to remember everything as it happened.... Thanks, -Josh
  19.     Please tell me you know how to bring a control board back from the dead.  I ran the diagnostic on the control board. When I tested the voltage going to the compressor it was 12.7 volts, same at the fan. The compressor, relay, and start cap, etc. seemed to test fine. Some wise person decided that replacing the relays on the control board might fix the problem.  The board was back ordered and over $170.00. One fried relay later, (components are so cheap right?) The dc to dc converter and almost all the capacitors are now replaced.  However, the board is completely dead when plugged back in place. The light will turn on that is connected directly to the board, but the lcd display does not light up and the compressor still won't turn on.      (The board now acts as if it is not receiving power.)  The initial problem began when a spark at the wall socket occurred.  The next day the freezer began to thaw.  The refrigerator temperature sensor and the defrost thermostat were already replaced prior to frying the control board.  We are just able to replace the board now, much less the fridge. We crashed when the market crashed, we just haven't recovered at the same rate........... could really use some help. So not a samurai:( Would love some idea of how to get a real service manual instead of just a tech sheet or any other info that could lead to victory over ignorance. Thanks to anyone who can help. 
  20. After replacing my Whirlpool Gold fridge with a purchase of the above Kenmore, the kenmore has stopped cooling in the fresh food section (after 5 days of use). Freezer works; Damper does not seem to open. Evaporator coils appear throughly iced up. I have a mfr's warranty, but Sears won't send a tech for almost TWO WEEKS. So, I would like to go into forced defrost mode, to see if I can struggle through until the tech gets here. But, this unit arrived without a tech sheet. Trying the commands for the jazz board for so many Whirlpools (which was in my old Whirlpool,) nothing happens. Further research on the Web seems to indicate that this unit uses a control board #Part number: W10428901 . The jazz board I'm a little familiar with is part number #Part number: W10503278 , which I assume now is not the same design as the board on this Kenmore. . So, where do I find instructions on this Kenmore to go into forced defrost? Is that a function that exists on this Kenmore? Any advice would be appreciated.
  21. This washer keeps blowing out control boards.  The main control, motor control and interface have all been replaced.  The main control is burning out without taking out the motor control unit.  The motor windings all ohm out correctly.  Can the problem still be the motor, maybe pulling too much amperage when it heats up? Or should I be looking at the interference filter instead?
  22. Good evening master techs. A while back my Neptune TL washer's control panel was acting very peculiar after only a couple of normal years use. Some of the LED's did not light, but the machine beeped when you pushed the related button; it took on a psycho personality changing cycles at will. The thing even started in the middle of the night without human contact so I pulled the machine from the laundry room and moved it to the "I'll fix it one of these days" area of my garage. Well, "one of those days" just came up (five years later). After reading every related post I could find here, and elsewhere, I concluded it must be the control panel. The little voice in my head kept telling me to read out the old panel first, but there was too much evidence presented via the forums so I ordered a new panel (open box for $50 on eBay). I installed the new part within hours of its arrival and voilà, all the lights lit up. Happy, happy, happy! I moved the machine to the driveway to give it a test run just to make sure all those years of sitting didn't wreck the clutch or gaskets and when I plugged it in again the same lights were out. After going back to the posts, the new conclusion was that the control board must be bad. I found out a new board is a little more than I was willing to invest so i turned to my old friend eBay again and bought one for cheap. While waiting on that part to arrive I couldn't let go of the coincidence of two panels having the exact same issue so I broke down and read out the ribbon cable on the old panel with my meter. Low and behold there was no issue with the old panel. I pulled the board and started looking at the ribbon cable connector and it seemed the clips were not very tight. I know the locking clip is supposed to push the clips tight when fully depressed, but what if it didn't work as designed? The techs here have put the screws to the engineers of this machine so it became necessary to dig deeper. I manipulated the clips with a jeweler' screwdriver until they tightened up to what I felt was sufficient. Now with tightened up clips and everything back together the machine is purring along nicely in the "test bay". I may add a layer or two of clear nail polish to the non contact side of the ribbon cable before returning the machine to service just to add a little thickness and enhance the gripping force of the locking clip. I hope this helps others get a jump on troubleshooting their control panel issues and save a few bucks, if possible. I knew the importance of troubleshooting on the machine and not the Internet, but I guess I got a little lazy and wound up spending money that could have been spent on better things.
  23. Bosch dishwasher - SHU43C05UC/14 - started making a whining, sort of continuous mild crunching noise while washing.  No noise while draining.  Pulled off kick plate and noise appears to be coming from circulation pump, #239144.  I put my fingers on the pump while it was running and the housing was hot to the touch. The dishwasher still fills with water and washes dishes.  Is it safe to continue using the dishwasher with a noisy circulation pump -- or is there a risk of fire, for example?  I won't have time to disassemble the dishwasher and repair it for a month or two.   Thank you..
  24. Hi all,    Had the DW running for a little while today when I heard a strange beeping from the kitchen.  Couldn't find it for a while  , then I realized "hey, the dishwasher should still be running!".  Opened the door, and the display said something like "stopped due to low water".  Strange.  Nothing near the bottom.  Tried the faucet, good flow.  So I restarted it.  Then, water profusely poured from the bottom.  Stopped it, mopped up, then took the kick plate off and looked under while I restarted.  Didn't take long for the waterfalls to start.  Couldn't tell where it was from, though.  I did notice a 'big white thing' hanging onto the floor.   Disconnected power and drain, pulled it out, tipped it on its side.  Pretty easy to find the source of the leak (even for me!).  The 'white thing' is a shroud covering what I think is the pump. It has a larger (maybe 1.5" elbow) connection to what I recognize as the reservoir under where the filter inserts on the inside; the other side is a short maybe 1" connectio to the center of the unit (I think that's where  the impeller is?).  Anyhow, it's that shorter connection that is just disconnected.  Doesn't seem to be any sort of trauma- the hose clamp is still in tact.  I'ts just not connected to the intake manifold (?).   I have pic I will post shortly, once I figure out how to use this "my media" thing.  But my questions:   -Should I just reconnect this thing, or is this an indication something needs replacing?  It's not a normal hose clamp, but I'm sure I can figure it out.   -With nothing look like it's failed, why da heck did this thing come of in the first place?  The unit is about 2 years old.  Doesn't make much noise and no vibrations to be noticed.     Seems like I got lucky, too.  I think if this had happened during the fill cycle, before the float switch was satisfied, it would just keep pouring onto the floor until somebody walked (or swum) in an noticed it, but since it happened (apparently) during the spray mode, the "no water" saved my butt.  Is that correct, or is this somehow smart enough to notice something was wrong during the fill cycle??   Thanks!   Bucky 
  25. Trying to force defrost but cant remember how to has addaptive defrost control