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  1. 3yrs old. serial az******m. machine not fully spinning the clothes out. Spin appears to be slow with no load. No cracks in stator and no leak at bearing. GE had some issues w/unit cracking and breaking off mech housing spline at infusor. I dont think thats what Im dealing with. Anybody ever had a board issue on these machines?
  2. Just started doing this a few days ago. In the past I was more worried about it making too much ice and overflowing the bin now it is making at a very slow rate! (I'll mention this in case it helps... Since I did have this overflow problem, I would flip up the lever when I see the bin full then later release it when we have used some) Checked the flow of water from the door dispenser and that is fine (about 8 oz in 4 seconds), freezer temp is fine. No visible icing in the supply tube. I do go in and bang on things and flip the ice level wire up and down a few times... Not sure if that is prompting new ice or if it is just this sloooooow now. Feels like if left alone it would stop completely soon? I guess if I need to purchase a new part that's OK but I want to be sure I get the correct item... Water control valve or ice maker unit itself. Any help (or neither) is appreciated. Thanks
  3. FIXED -- WITHOUT replacing the fan! I used the information found on on voltages and fixed the fan and the temp control issue. Here's what I found: Symptoms -- Temperature control is extremely erratic in freezer and refrig. Hot or warm on the outside skin in places like the top and sides. First, I opened it up, blew the condenser out the dust with a reverse wet-vac. I did notice the fan speed was very slow. After blowing it out, it did cool a lot better, but the temps were still erratic, and still too high. Next, I put a fan in the front, forcing the air from the front and over the top. This worked OK. and temp regulation was "acceptable". Finally 4 months later, I had time to fix it as follows: Find the fan on the end of the condenser and the disconnect plug. I found the fan's blue lead was not hooked up at the plug to anything, as it was not being used in this model. The Yellow/FAN wire to White/Common was, as expected, 4 Volts, and 12V at the Red/Power lead to White/Common. Shorting pins fixes an "always slow fan": Be very careful if you try this. Do it wrong and you could destroy the motherboard. Or, you could get it to work, and come back after a long weekend only to find your compressor burning up because the fan quit completely. FIX: First find the plug near the fan and disconnect it by pushing the side catch. On the MB side of the plug, you will have 3 or 4 wires. Remove the yellow wire from the plug as follows: There are two side catches that can be released, and then you pull the MB side of the plug up. Once it is up, pull the yellow wire/crimped connector pin out of the plug easily. Careful you don't short it to something; and now insulate it. Don't use scotch tape, as it will fall apart in a few years. Don't cut the pin off, you WILL want to use it later if you replace the fan. Messy, but effective IF you remove the Yellow wire as above: First, reassemble the MB side of the plug, minus the Yellow wire. On the fan side of the plug, short the Red and Yellow wires together, using whatever method you want. MAKE SURE THIS DOESN'T COME LOOSE! If it does, your fan will stop completely and may fry your compressor. Tricky: Get some braided wire and cut at least a 3" piece. Strip about 1/2" on one side, and 3/4"-1" on the other. Insert the 1" bare wire into the former Yellow wire hole. Insert the 1/2" side into and BESIDE the top of the Red PIN. Align the bare metal of the wire to the top of the bare PIN of Red wire. If you have it too deep, you can't close it. If it isn't deep enough, it could come loose. I extended a few strands past the 1/2" that would catch, but still close. Push the connector back together, (which may not be easy). Done right, you have no exposed bare wire showing. Now, PULL on the added short-wire to make SURE that it won't come loose with time, because if it does, your fan will stop and it could fry your compressor. FIXED?: Now, plug it into the fan, which should now be running at full speed. While you are there and you have it apart, BLOW it out using some sort of reverse vacuum or high pressure blower to save $$, time, etc. ALSO --- Do your repairman a favor and PRINT THIS, stick in into an envelope labeled FAN FIX, and attach it near the fan so he won't miss it, if the fan is later replaced. Remember, he won't likely have you back there to explain when he's trying to figure out what that last idiot did as a workaround! You should now feel warm air at the bottom front of the refrigerator. The temperature should now be controlled on both the freezer and the refrig within a day, and should stay within 1-2 degrees of the set temp.
  4. Issue just started. No noticable reduction in fill speed before today. Cold fills normally and I can also hear the solenoid humming when switched to hot. Filterscreens on both inlets appear free from debris (aka gookus). Suggestions? (Yes, the valve at the source was verified to be open) Thank you!
  5. I have a Maytag mhwe201yw00. when it gets to the spin mode it never spins fast. The time gets to 1 and just sits there (20 plus min.).I ohmed the motor windings and they where 6.5 between any two wires. i checked dc voltage at the blue wires and got 5 volts. i ohmes out the tach and it was in the 100's (i don't remember the actual amount but do remember it was in the right area according to the tech sheet.) Any ideas on what to check next and how to check it? i ran a diagnostic check as well and it still only spins slowly.
  6. Customer called complaining cloths are wet at end of wash cycle a month ago.   Checked drain pump, hoses,  everything seemed OK.   Ran thru complete cycle with empty load, cycled OK,  ramped up to high spin at 5-6 minutes left.    Ran a load thru normal cycle (what they normally use) load cycled normally, clothes came out clean & damp dry.   Machine spun out in high speed.   Customer called couple days ago claiming washer is doing same thing, wet clothes.   I ran thru rinse & drain cycle empty.  Ramped up to high speed.   Pulled pump & drain hoses, tub ring, looked up thru bottom of tub with mirror.   Could not find anything out of ordinary, no blockage, socks, thread wrapped around impeller, nothing that would stop washer from draining.   I installed new pump to see if any different.  Only thing I found was toad camped out in drain line where washer was drained in back yard.   Good water flow.   Customer called this morning say clothes are still wet after wash cycle.     Suggestions from those experienced with these symptoms.
  7. Any one got a service manual.......????
  8. Samsung ice maker slow harvest it did not cycle with test button, so I replaced ice maker. I got a call its still slow harvest. im hopping to get a bundle of info packed manuals so I may read them tonight.   thanks BRM
  9. Jenn-Air range....D-120

    Got an old J/A range...D-120....Complaint is slow to heat...Both bake and broil element operate when set to 'radiant bake'......takes about 10 minutes to reach  set temp. of 350 degs  ( actual temp is 390 ) and  then unit will settle at the set  temp with thermostat cycling.....Bake element is drawing 4 amps.   960 watts seems low but it is maintaining temps......Checked preheat against a new oven and  the new unit hit 350 degs in 8 not have a wire diagram for the D-120...............  I do not think there is anything wrong with this unit, the range is in a weekend rental, it is just that most people do not get to use an almost antique................Rental agency whats me to tell the home owner it needs to be replaced, but in the last three years I have rebuilt almost every thing... ( new convection motor, new cartridges, new surface switches and new knobs ....  but not the T-stat, yet ).........rental agency would like to see newer appliances but they are not the one paying the $$$ to replace an old drop-in ................Any  old timer got in-site an old dog?????   .
  10. Hello, again.   Today my washing machine is starting to act up.  It appears that it spins too slow.  If I move it back and forth by hand it feels tight but after a couple of back and forth turns, it frees up a bit, but not for long.  I had reports of a burning type smell, but I did not smell this myself.   My conclusion is that the clutch is shot and binding.  What I'm looking for is a confirmation that this is the likely culprit for this type of problem.   Thanks in advance.   tm
  11. I have a MAH6700AWW that the board went out on. I got a new board and put it in and now it seems I have other issues. The unit will not reach high speed, clothes come out wet. The pump works fine, as I also put in a new pump and checked for clogs. I ran all checks and they all come out OK. The error code I get is 8e or e8. My model is version 11. The board they sent me is the newer one that has ports for the mems unit. They did NOT send me a mems unit with this board. Could this be whats causing my issues?
  12. Agitator is barely moving, but when one presses down on it, it moves better. Agitator was replaced a couple of years ago. What could this be and how can I troubleshoot it?
  13. I have a Magic Chef 59F 5TWX oven that has been a pain in the rear lately. It takes over an hour to preheat the oven to 350°. Can anyone give me some suggestions as to what might be wrong and if it's worth fixing? I don't want to pay a repairman $60/hr to come tell me what the problem is if I can fix it myself.