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  1. this space age looking ove takes forever to pre heat and once preheated temperature slowly drops and wont maintain temp. You have to touch this panel before you can enter anything it is completely dark until touched then lights up with more commands and options than you ever thought possible.Hit bake and set temp at 350 and  suspended thermocouple of my temperature meter. temperature climbs but incredibly slow like 20 minutes to preheat. When watching indicator on panel what it shows happenning during preheat is broil energizes for 12 seconds then nothing for 10 seconds,then bake energizes for 24 seconds and the process repeats over and over. I believe what is happening andplease tell me if im wrong is i think the bake element is not heating at all even though the little indicator shows it. There is no element too see just smooth oven cavity on the bottom and no panel to remove to observe element but when i lay the end of my thermocouple on the bottom of the cavity (equivalant to accidently letting it touch the bake element directly in testing) the temp actually goes down making me think this "hidden" bake element didnt actually come on during preheat. That would explain the long long preheat time and if once preheated the job of maintaining temp falls to the bake element this would explain why it doesnt maintain temp or cycle . I did notice that even after temp dropped 50 degrees the broil element never came on again. Am i all wet in my little "theory" or does this make sense. I looked up the bake element and was shocked it literally looked like an extra large white pizza box with two long spades sticking out the back like the spades on those 'Jenn air" cooktop cartridges. If correct about element how do you get to it???? Im afraid your gonna say remove oven from wall which i dread this thing is a beast i have never seen a single oven this large.  Any input appreciated im totally unfamiliar with this oven. thanks     P.S. dont know if it means anything but during preheat that fan in the back wall comes on and runs which i thought was for convection but maybe it has something to do with its preheat process.Definitly had it on "regular" bake.
  2. 8 year old viking double electric oven low temp in both. about 30 on upper and 50 on lower. before i dig into this monster, anyone know if thermostats can be calibrated? No cheaters on the knobs. 
  3. After running the self cleaning feature on my Thermador gas oven, the oven won't heat. The fan turns on, it acts like it's trying to heat, but no heat.   From my initial research, it looks like this is a common problem, and I just need to reset the hi-temp cutout switch. But where is it and how easy is it to get to?   Thanks in advance!
  4. Knowledgeable and esteemed group,   I have diagnosed the above referenced oven runaway temp to what I am 99% sure is a stuck relay. It has happened a couple times. When the oven gets bounced or cooled, things function normally. I have also observed this relay in operation and compared it to others. This particular relay exhipts a bright arc through it's white translucent shell unlike other relays; for intance the bottom oven. The bottom oven due to it's size difference I suspect draws less current. So this may not be a true apples to apples comparison.   I have procured a replacement board. But I am frugal (cheap???).   The OEM part number for the relay is Tyco OZ-SS-112LM1F. Same part on the original relay board and the replacement.   I am really good at eletronics soldering, component replacement and circuit board work.   Now google is my friend. Search for the part number. None available in the US. Minimum preorder qty is thousands depending on the distributer and weeks lead time. Available in England and China. Newark in England will sell you one @ $1.36 + $20 frieght charge + shipping that they will not pre-quote. Give me a break.   So did they discover a flaw? And there is a new model? I have searched multiple ways for a replacement to no avail. Thoughts? Suggestions other than just slap the new relay baord in. If it's the smae part and there is a design flaw, I don't want to be doing this again. I fix things once. Otherwise they get toasted with a good beer, shot, and scrapped.   If I didn't have a wife to contend with, I'd mount a big proper contactor and be done with it. But it would be pretty ugly.   Dale Grice.
  5. I have a Frigidaire upright, frost free freezer. Normally, I keep it approximately 3 inches from the wall. I noticed about a month ago the high temp light would come on.the compressor was also almost too hot to touch. I moved it away from the wall,unplugged it, thinking maybe some froze up on the inside. I plugged it back in a couple hours later, and it was fine. A week ago the high temp light and alarm came on. The temp is actually staying between 16 and 18 degrees. So it really isn't all that high. But the compressor stays hot, even if I put a fan blowing on it. Nothing is wrong with gaskets or anything. It seals well, and still does the ,lock, (for lack of a better term) when you close it. (Can't open for a few seconds after.) Wondering if it could be a sensor, and why the compressor is getting so hot.
  6. Hello All , I'm working on a viking dual fuel 30in range VDSC307. Initially got a call the oven would trip the breaker when turned on. I found the selector switch burnt and shorted so I replaced it.Then I got a call that the bake comes on and the temperature goes all the way past desired temperature so I replaced the thermostat, this did not correct the problem. Can you tell me what I should check or look for next? 
  7. FIXED -- WITHOUT replacing the fan! I used the information found on repairClinic.com on voltages and fixed the fan and the temp control issue. Here's what I found: Symptoms -- Temperature control is extremely erratic in freezer and refrig. Hot or warm on the outside skin in places like the top and sides. First, I opened it up, blew the condenser out the dust with a reverse wet-vac. I did notice the fan speed was very slow. After blowing it out, it did cool a lot better, but the temps were still erratic, and still too high. Next, I put a fan in the front, forcing the air from the front and over the top. This worked OK. and temp regulation was "acceptable". Finally 4 months later, I had time to fix it as follows: Find the fan on the end of the condenser and the disconnect plug. I found the fan's blue lead was not hooked up at the plug to anything, as it was not being used in this model. The Yellow/FAN wire to White/Common was, as expected, 4 Volts, and 12V at the Red/Power lead to White/Common. Shorting pins fixes an "always slow fan": Be very careful if you try this. Do it wrong and you could destroy the motherboard. Or, you could get it to work, and come back after a long weekend only to find your compressor burning up because the fan quit completely. FIX: First find the plug near the fan and disconnect it by pushing the side catch. On the MB side of the plug, you will have 3 or 4 wires. Remove the yellow wire from the plug as follows: There are two side catches that can be released, and then you pull the MB side of the plug up. Once it is up, pull the yellow wire/crimped connector pin out of the plug easily. Careful you don't short it to something; and now insulate it. Don't use scotch tape, as it will fall apart in a few years. Don't cut the pin off, you WILL want to use it later if you replace the fan. Messy, but effective IF you remove the Yellow wire as above: First, reassemble the MB side of the plug, minus the Yellow wire. On the fan side of the plug, short the Red and Yellow wires together, using whatever method you want. MAKE SURE THIS DOESN'T COME LOOSE! If it does, your fan will stop completely and may fry your compressor. Tricky: Get some braided wire and cut at least a 3" piece. Strip about 1/2" on one side, and 3/4"-1" on the other. Insert the 1" bare wire into the former Yellow wire hole. Insert the 1/2" side into and BESIDE the top of the Red PIN. Align the bare metal of the wire to the top of the bare PIN of Red wire. If you have it too deep, you can't close it. If it isn't deep enough, it could come loose. I extended a few strands past the 1/2" that would catch, but still close. Push the connector back together, (which may not be easy). Done right, you have no exposed bare wire showing. Now, PULL on the added short-wire to make SURE that it won't come loose with time, because if it does, your fan will stop and it could fry your compressor. FIXED?: Now, plug it into the fan, which should now be running at full speed. While you are there and you have it apart, BLOW it out using some sort of reverse vacuum or high pressure blower to save $$, time, etc. ALSO --- Do your repairman a favor and PRINT THIS, stick in into an envelope labeled FAN FIX, and attach it near the fan so he won't miss it, if the fan is later replaced. Remember, he won't likely have you back there to explain when he's trying to figure out what that last idiot did as a workaround! You should now feel warm air at the bottom front of the refrigerator. The temperature should now be controlled on both the freezer and the refrig within a day, and should stay within 1-2 degrees of the set temp.
  8. Washer intermittenly brings in cold water on hot water setting.  This is the non sensor setting so it should only be hot when set for hot, cold cold etc.  Hoses not backwards.  Temp selector switch was replaced but same problem.  Any thoughts?
  9. Hi,   I have a GE Profile PFS22SISSS Fridge.  I am not sure if this is the PFS22SISASS, BSS, CSS or DSS.  No where in/on my fridge does it mention the last 3 characters together.  Over the last 1.5 weeks, my fridge has been cycling between normal temps (0F freezer/37F fridge) up to (40F/55F) and then back to normal all within a day.  This sometimes even happens twice a day and I have confirmed the actual temperatures using a thermometer.   I searched on Google and came across other owners with similar symptoms.  Based on their experiences, I have replaced the motherboard.  Unfortunately, this has not solved my problem.  I have also removed the interior back panel in the freezer and have confirmed there is no frost build-up on the coils.  The coompressor fan and the evap motor fan are running strong and don't appear to have any issues.   The fridge is humming away trying to cool itself right now (temps are currently 48F/53F because I just spent time removing the interior back panel of the freezer).  However, I do notice a clicking noise (about once per minute) emitting from some electronic hardware attached to the side of the compressor.  It sounds like a relay switching on or off.  I believe the hardware in question are labeled as Items 810, 811 and 821 (Overload Protect, Thermistor PTC and Capacitor, respectively).  You can find these parts and associated microfiche if you go to https://www.geapplianceparts.com/GEApplianceParts/modelgroupsearch# and search for "PFS22SISDSS".  These aforementioned parts are listed under "CABINET".   Please let me know if you have any suggestions as to what might be causing my problem.  I plan on watching my fridge over the next couple of days without the interior back panel in place.  I can better determine what's actually happening when the temps rise dramatically (I am guessing the defrost heater kicks in but am not sure why).  Anyone know what the clicking might be indicating?   Thanks, Travis
  10.   I have a Frigidaire oven that both the broiler and bake elements are not heating. Resistance on bake element was 16 ohms and on broiler was 14.5 (don't recall if that was K).  The controller is an "ES 300" and appears to be functioning properly, fault codes, operational, etc. Door switch functioning, Stove top works, clock works.    Elements not receiving power.  I checked the temperature sensor and it indicated an open.  However, when I actually removed from temp sensor from the circuit and applied power, I received the F3 fault code, and still indicated OL.      Can a faulty temp sensor prevent power from reaching the oven elements?  The service manual states temp sensor resistance should be between 800 and 3K ohms.  It seems odd to me that the Fault code was not indicated while the part was installed, yet had no continuity, but when removed, the fault code was displayed.      Any help would be greatly appreciated.  I am ordering the sensor but am still unsure if that is my entire problem.    Thanks Jeff MTC(SS)
  11. I have a Frigidaire Gas Range that is not keeping correct temperatures.  Today the Control Board read 400 degrees but my two thermometers inside the over indicated 250 degrees. The model number is FGGF3076KBG. Could it be the bake ignitor going bad. Can someone point me in the right direction.
  12. compressor making a noise   gauge readings Low Side 65psi  ---pegged out HIGH side 90-95psi    110-118psi   When quite Low side is 65psi and HIGH side is 110-118psi indoor temp @ air register is  83F When LOUD Low side is PEGGED out and HIGH side is 90-95psi indoor temp @ air register is 88F   Quite and LOUD compressor running cycles   Quite running about 1.2 minutes LOUD running 15-20 seconds   I have my EPA cert to handle and buy R-22   I dont do this for a living so I maybe missing something so simple any suggestions.......?
  13. When a cycle is selected with high or normal heat,the drying/cool down/press saver/ clean lint filter lights flash three times and beeps,there is no display.If low heat is selected,dryer starts and the time is displayed.it's as if the door is open and start is pressed.this happens on all cycles,and only when a high temp is selected.this is a stack unit squeezed into a closet in a tiny bathroom.removing vent hose has no effect on problem.
  14. box was unplugged when at arrival,but customer claims ff temp display was 145 degrees and frzr was 10.they showed me products that were in fridge and did feel well above room temp - but, is this possible? what if the thaw feature was on for an extended time and/or malfunctioned? i thought the display was 2 digit.
  15. This venerble wall oven c1985 has worked for many years but the temperature varies by +/- 30 degF. Since my daugher has graduated a baking and pastry program, all I get now is an angry look accompanied by a cake that didn't rise, or got burnt. I guess that I should first ask if this is considered normal for a non-commercial oven? The convection fan works fine and the door seal is almost new. What other factors should I look into? Essential parts (like thermostats) are scarce or non-existent. Are there any cleanings, adjustments or calibrations that one could perform? . Thanks!!
  16. Dear SARA, I recently aquired an "almost new " "lightly used" Magic Chef Wine Cooler model MCWC50DBT at an estate sale. It was plugged in and was at temperarture. I brought it home, leveled it and the unit pulls down to the preset "white" and "red" wine settings just fine. The future for this unit is to chill beverages so I read the included manual to adjust the temperature and there in lies the problem. When I press the [sET] button as instructed: (1) Press the [sET] pad until you hear a "beep" sound (approximately fifteen seconds. I get an immediate "beep" (not a beep in fifteen seconds as the instructions mention) and no ability to adjust the temperature. I remained calm and followed the instructions multiple times only to met with the same...sad...outcome. Not one to be easily beaten, I humbly bring this challenge to the Samurai for your/their consideration. Many thanks to all, in advance, for all assistance rendered!
  17. I need to replace this, but cannot seem to get the old one out. I have the top panel open but cannot see how to remove the old switch. Help please
  18. I was getting a "Temp Sensor Error", replaced the sensor and after 2 loads am getting the error again. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance!
  19. We need help. After 3 years, a week ago, our side by side Amana S148Da01 suddenly started beeping at us intermittently and after a few days freezer temp went to 28. Found that the vents at the bottom of the freezer were frozen with ice, so defrosted with hair dryer, and overnight, freezer went to -15. Today, a week later, the freezer was beeping at me with temp just under 0, so I took out my hair dryer again and defrosted the frost I saw -- and then half an hour later it started beeping again. There is a round silver button at the right hand side of I guess what you call deflectors -- I have no idea what it does. We have a user manual and an installation manual, and they pretty much tell us nothing. I melted all the ice I could see, and things were fine until the freezer started beeping at 0 degrees. I just turned off the alarm and now it's happily running at -5. I'm guessing that when I defrost what I see at the bottom of the freezer without removing the entire back inside panel probably means I'm not defrosting the entire thing to begin with and that there's probably a problem with the defrost system. Originally, the drip pan was bone dry and after last week's drying out, it filled with water and again evaporated. Today, after the hair dryer, there's just stuff in the pan that feels like glycerine. I also no longer hear those popping and sizzling sounds that I assume used to be the defroster. I'm attaching photo of bottom of fridge of the vents that I defrosted -- and whatever the silver push button is. Thank you for any help! My husband normally could fix just about anything, but he suffered a stroke a year ago, and he is not the genius he used to - but still extremely capable. We need a bit extra help. What does he need to look for, and what do you make of this glycerine stuff in the pan that seems to be new. We have an identical unit that has been running in our garage (Washington, DC) for the past 5 years with no problems. This unit has been in our kitchen for the past 3 -- hubby got a super deal on both.