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  1. I have a french door whirlpool refrigerator. Customer stated the water started randomly spraying water out of the dispenser-nobody was near the refrigerator. Now water dispenser doesn't work, ice dispenser doesn't work and ice maker quit. When put in diagnostics none of them worked either. No error codes nothing. Any ideas? I checked the wiring at the hinge cover -all connected and no broken wires. Thanks in advance
  2. I haven't seen to much on these icemaker so I figured I would start. If anyone knows a good info source I would appreciate it. OK, here goes.  Icemaker has been leaking and when I got to this one I  couldn't even remove the icebucket. We agreed I would return after giving some time to thaw. After thawing I wasn't able to harvest using the TH jumper, so I checked for voltage. No voltage at T or H when checking both to ground. No voltage when checkin g from T-H either. I entered diagnostics and went to step 25 (icemaker fill test, see tech sheet) and checkde for voltage at T-H and now the 120V was present. I tried again a few times in both normal and diagnostics...same result. Also, the icemaker is less than a year old. Customer said he installed it himself. I can see the evidence also. He tore up the plastic cover for the harness and broke the retainer tab on the side of the icemaker. So I do believe he changed it, LOL.   So long story short, why can I harvest only in diagnostic and not in normal ? I'M part number is W10377151. Thanks for any info on this.
  3. My 3 year old Samsung RF4287HARS has been working flawlessly until recently, when the ice maker began producing small ice cubes.  I've checked all the logical solutions . . . water pressure is fine, water line is good, replaced the filter, reset the ice maker.  None seem to make an impact.  My next step is to adjust the water fill level to the ice tray but I can't find the right button combination on the display panel.  I've spent hours searching for this and no luck.  I found some instructions in another post for a different Samsung model but it does not work on mine.  Any guidance?  Very appreciative of any help.
  4. Hi all, I find myself once again with water dispenser failure. I previously beat a frozen water line into submission with your kind assistance. (Read the riveting story here This time seems to be a valve issue, however. Here's why I think so, and what I've done so far: Firstly, both the water and the ice maker have stopped producing, whereas before I only lost water. Also, I have pulled the water line loose directly from the outgoing side of the valve in back of the fridge (near the coils and canister), and cannot get water flow from there when depressing the switch for the dispenser. Other info: I knew trouble was a-brewin a few months ago, when I started hearing a sputtering / chattering racket when the valve would kick open for the ice maker. At the time, I had just installed one of those "bargain" AquaFresh brand filters, so I chalked it up to that, or a bit of air in the line. I've since gone back to the the GE brand, but obviously this was not the cure. The issue persists either with the filter or the bypass plug installed. So, down to the actual questions: 1. Did the off-brand filter possibly cause this failure, or is it just coincidence? 2. Should I go ahead and replace the valve, or is there something else I should check first?
  5. Thanks to all who helped. Had a customer call about a defrost issue. I did the necessary repairs. Now complaint is that water not coming out of dispenser. After investigation I noticed that the resovoir was frozen, I checked the evap coils to ensure fridge was in fact dethawing. And it was.i dethawed the fridge and water flowed easily out dispenser. Gotta call back a couple days later, am I missing something. Much appreciated
  6. Hey everyone - some details:   - Miele G891 Dishwasher installed by previous apartment tenant   - Just recently it started flashing the "Water Intake" light after 1-2 minutes of running.  It doesn't appear to have any water coming into the machine.   - I took the intake valve line off and confirmed that water is flowing from the pipe.  I also cleaned out the restrictor and the filter.   - I also did the hook/spanner trick of spinning the impeller blades with a fork and it didn't appear to be stuck on anything.   I think the water intake line valve (two solenoids in plastic) is broken, I'm not sure how often these things break but curious if it's something I can replace myself.   Some questions:   - What else could it be besides the aforementioned problems?   - Is it likely that this is the problem?   - Is this something I can replace without pulling out the dishwasher (it's a built-in so not sure how hard it would be to remove).  Like can I order just the head unit and splice the wires from the original cable?   Would appreciate any help as well as where to buy these things.
  7. Our HE3t is not draining. We keep getting SUD and F02 error codes. Worst part is, the door will not unlock either. We cleaned out the catch and made sure the hoses were clear and not kinked. We ran it with the panel off and can hear the pump making noises like something is lose. This is a two part request...   1. How can we get the door open? 2. Can you point us towards the correct part and instructions on how to replace it?   Thank you! Pamela
  8. I had water pouring out of my ice cube maker, so I replaced the water inlet valve.  Nevertheless, water continues to fill the ice maker tray and over flow out the front of the ice dispenser.    Is this a bad sensor?  I would expect it to fail safe, that is, shut the valve off, but that is not the case.  The water is coming out regardless of whether or not the ON/OFF bar is up or down.   What should I do?
  9. Appliantologists,   The clothes washer in question is a Kenmore 110.24832200, about 12 years old according to a serial number search I did (I bought it refurbished about 3 years ago).  On a fast spin cycle it gradually gets more and more out of balance until the washer is dancing around and there is the occasional banging sound.  It performs OK on the slow spin speed, although you can see that the drum is out of balance.   The leveling of the cabinet is good.  I've checked it across the front, across the back, front to back on each side and also corner to opposite corner.  The self leveling legs at the rear seem to be working perfectly.  I checked the leveling of the tub with the cabinet removed.  It seems good and the tub returns to a level position.   The suspension springs look good, although I don't know what to look for when examining them, so I might miss it unless it's something obvious like one being broken or disconnected.   The counterbalancing spring and the leveling spring (at the back) are rusted but intact and in place.   I've read about snubber or wear pads on these that can also wear down and cause this problem.  Don't know if these were replaced when the washer was refurbished, and I haven't removed the drum to check them.   My question is, do these symptoms seem more like spring symptoms, snubber pad symptoms, both, or something else?  I'm thinking they are more like spring symptoms because of the way the drum gets up to full speed for a while and the vibration develops, getting worse and worse.  But I'd like to get some second opinions about diagnosing or fixing this:  replace all the springs, including the suspension springs or just replace the rusted leveling and counterbalance spring?, or replace the pads? or both? or something else entirely?   Thank you!    
  11. I picked up a whirlpool dishwasher and the guy says it wasnt filling with water so he replaced the inlet valve but still no water.  I was wondering if it could be the float or the switch underneith that could be causing the issue.
  12. I spent about three hours perusing most of the posts on this french door unit that I could find. I was unable to find a post, or a download, that could assist me in removing the ice maker.    My situation looks like the valve slowly leaked water into the ice maker and caused it to bind up and crack up the tray. There was also water frozen in the bottom of the dispenser drawer, sticking the cubes together.    The top plastic cover with the styrofoam was chewed up slightly, and when I showed it to my customer she exclaimed "that's where all that funny white stuff came from." When I dropped the motor head down and then the ice tray, the thermistor fell down and the wiring was chafed at the rubbery end of thermistor.   There is ice and water dripping down on the back wall directly under the ice maker area.   My question is: How to remove the ice maker? How to remove the auger motor/head? How to best extricate the frozen fill tube or at least defrost it? I watched an outdated ice maker removal video and read numerous posts and Q&A's on the parts site. I also have downloaded all the recent files on this but cannot locate instructions for working on this. Did I miss something somewhere?    Domo to all...
  13. The screen on the cold water inlet kept getting clogged with sediment (we have a well) to the point I had to scrape off the crud daily. I have therefore installed an "all-house" water filter for the cold water inlet pipe feeding the washing machine installed thusly...hose running from cold water pipe run to filter, than hose out of filter into cold water inlet on washer. To check to make sure it was working, I depressed the "finger faucet" in the cold water setting and the water gushed out (cold water) as it did when filter screen was unclogged...success...but when I went to wash, I set water temp to cold/cold, set the cycle dial for normal, pulled the control dial knob out to start and no water. I replaced the water inlet valve less than a year ago so it should not be a problem.
  14. I have a GE Monogram Refrigerator, model ZISP4800TASS, manufactured in 2007.  This is the built-in model, double door stainless steel.  A water and ice dispenser is located in the freezer door.  Selector buttons on the dispenser control panel enable you to choose between water, crushed ice, cube ice, or to lock the dispenser.  The dispenser has started to randomly turn itself on, dispensing either water or ice, depending on the dispenser control panel selector button that was last used.  The dispenser does not shut itself off.  I can turn it off by depressing the lock button on the panel or by opening the freezer door.  For now, I have disconnected the dispenser wiring connector assembly running from the top of the refrigerator into the freezer door, and have turned off the water supply.     I have seen some threads on the Internet with others having a similar problem with different GE refrigerator models, but not this model.  Sounds like the issue is either in the micro switch or in the control panel, both being in the dispenser.   A few questions if someone can help. 1. Anyone have experience with this? 2. Thoughts on the micro switch or the control panel?  Since it is random, a repair person told me it may be condensation periodically occurring in the micro switch shorting out randomly, whereas if it was in the control board, the problem would likely be continual and not random. 3. This unit does not have a bezel around the outside of the dispenser.  So I am not sure if the dispenser can be removed from the front, or if the stainless door panel has to be removed first.  Anyone know? 4. If the stainless door panel has to be removed, can it be done without removing the whole freezer door?   I live out in the boonies and can't seem to find a repair company willing to come out to fix it.  Unfortunately, GE has been no help. I'm generally a do-it-myself person and am willing to give this a go.   Thanks Marty
  15. When I pull out the Starter button, my washer does not start filling.
  16. I replaced the water inlet valve on my U-Line CLR2060 ice machine in February and it failed last week.  Of course the place I bought the part from has a 90-day warranty on parts.  Before I spend another $50 on a U-Line 2552a valve, I thought I'd check here with a thought/question:   Aren't these all pretty much the same and just have different inlet/outlet connectors and mounting brackets?  If I find a similar (i.e. 120V,60hz,20W) solenoid & valve wither either the same fittings or I adapt my fittings, won't that work?   Thanks for any input and apologies if it's a "dumb question".   
  17. I have a GE Monogram ZISS360NMCS refrigerator / freezer that is having a problem. We noticed water dripping down the front right edge around the door seal and it was coming from under the compressor.  We cleaned it up and it stopped.  Then we noticed that the frame around the freezer door was excessively hot, almost too hot to hold your hand on it.  The freezer went from it's normal 4 degrees up to 18 degrees and did not get any colder.  The heat was transferred through the door and felt really warm on the left edge on the front.  It is almost like the defrosting heater element is stuck on.  Does anyone have any ideas on what would be causing this or what I should do?  Thanks.  John
  18. Morning, I have a question regarding an LG Tromm washer we recently purchased from a previous owner. Washer was working fine, until recently, I noticed washer had leaked water. That got fixed on its own, then noticed that a couple of times, clothes was left damp after cycle ended. And now washer seems to get stuck on rinse cycle for quite a long time as to where it forces me to shut water off and washer itself. Water continuosly pours in non-stop for up 45 mins if I don't shut water off while display show rinse mode and minutes do not change at all. Read and did appliance test as suggested on an previous post "LG WM0642HW TROMM washer FE error" where I found out water kept on pouring in through detergent dispenser area and no water inlet what so ever when it hit the bleach area. I however do not get any error code and wanted to find out if same part numbers for water valves apply to my model? Any advice and help will be extremely appreciated as clothes are piling up, and not to mention sticky pile on floor after washer failed to properly wash or dry them prior to my giving up on sticken thing. Thank you, eager to hear any suggestions and/or ideas.      
  19. blocked or frozen drain tube right?  Notorious for evap leaks w/iceball in bottom left.
  20. I have a Kenmore model 253.56512400 side by side refrigerator. The ice maker occasionally started over-filling and water would run out the dispenser chute. I shut the water supply off to the refrigerator and only turned it on when I was in the same room. I read some of the forums and replaced the water supply inlet valve with part Part number: 240531101 . Water dispenser worked, but still no water to ice maker. I then installed a new ice maker Part number: 5303918277 . Still no water. I have checked the connections to the valve and they are getting power. Switched connections for the water and ice lines, cycled the ice maker and water came out the water dispenser- pushed the water dispenser to see if the ice maker would fill and got nothing. There are no ice blockages in the supply line. We unhooked the ice maker supply line to the valve and cycled the ice maker and no water came out of the valve. All other valves are functioning. Could I have gotten a bad water valve?
  21. I just figured out what was wrong with my ice maker.  It was never installed correctly in the first place the rocker arm was not seted correctly so th whol box was throwing water and ice all over.    But I still have water in the bottom of the freezer.  I discover that the evaporator tube was loose from the heater element, but I am unsure how they are supposed to be connected.  I wrapped the little gummy sheet around both thinking it might help, but alas, it did not help.  Any suggestions?
  22. Samsung fridge, RF217ACRS. Last six weeks, water has been accumulating inside the bottom drawer (right side) as well as in the inside bottom of the unit. Thank you John
  24. I am hoping I know the answer but would like your impute before I go back out on job. Sorry so long.   Washer wont get enough water.   So I put washer into regular wash, cold water, it started filling with real good pressure then it stop and I looked inside to see no water, watch it till drain and no more water was added. Unhook cold water shoved it down drain pipe and watch for 30 sec. strong pressure and consistent, look at water valve inlet no debris. Disconnected tube to water level and blow into it, that checked out. Put into diagnostics, cold and hot valves, pressure switch and flow meter passed (so to speak) so CCU must be ok (  I'm probably wrong in guess that flow meter is bypass in diagnostics )  I know I probably look stupid at this point.   Had a pressure switch in truck did a money change to no avail. #W10415587   So I put washer into a regular wash again, same thing no or very little water, I unplugged it and waited about 5 sec. plugged it back in (for some reason) and it willed up.   I'm thinking flow meter but couldn't set it up to take resistance reading 'cause my alligator clips had broken last week and forgot to restock tools.   Lets see how I did.   Thanks so much in advance.
  25. My dishes have not been coming out clean from my Kenmore Dishwasher (model # 587.15152400). I think the problem may be with the water level. As far as I can tell the, water only level barely fills up the very bottom of the dishwasher, as shown with in the yellow line. I think the water level sensor is marked in red, but the water doesn't even come close to this. Would this problem be an issue of a bad water sensor, or something else?? My concern with the water sensor is that the water is not even getting close to it, so how would it sense the water level??  Hos does the washer know to stop entering water if the water sensor does not tell it to stop?   Any ideas or suggestions?? Thanks!