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  1. Gentlemen, I could use some help. I have a pretty old Jenn-Air model# SVE47500b electric range that has not functioned properly for some time and I finally decided to try and fix it. The stovetop elements all work fine, but the front display is completely blank. Pressing the membrane buttons on the front results in "beeps" but nothing else. I did some research and ordered a relay control board (the small board on the back of the oven behind the stamped cover) but when I replaced that board it had no effect on the problem. I then replaced the clock board in the front of the unit and lo and behold I have a working display! However, when i pressed the "bake" button and input a temperature of 350 degrees (or really, any number), i almost immediately get an error code of "F5" and a continuous "beep" until I press "cancel" on the membrane keypad. Stove top elements still work fine, but oven doesn't heat up at all - I just get that error code. Anything else I can try, or do i need to call in a repair technician?  I'm wasn't quite ready to replace the oven yet (was going to wait until i did a kitchen remodel) and while I can return the relay control board (the old one performs indistinguishably from the new one), keeping the clock board means I've got a little under $300 into this repair and unless I can fix it for less than about $500 total I think I might just be looking at a replacement oven...
  2. Hello, We have a Kitchenaid model YKESC307HB8 stove.  I came on this forum a few years ago when the stove wouldn't heat properly and you folks helped me solve it.  Now I have a new problem.   When one goes to set the oven temperature and then hits the "Start" button, the oven won't heat at all.  There is a clicking noise coming from the stove and that's it.     I first checked the house power supply to the unit and the fuses are fine.  Then I checked the heating elements to look for brown out spots and couldn't find any.     I took the back of the stove off, saw all this wiring and then got a bit afraid that I wouldn't know what I was doing.  So I called in a stove repair person.   He took one look at the stove and said the "relay unit' isn't working.  Then he went on to say that since the stove was made in 2003, it was quite likely that parts for this would be unavailable.  He said he was going to go back and check.   So my question to you wise folks is does his trouble shooting analysis seem correct and, if so, are there parts available for this on the internet.  I live in Canada.   Many, many thanks in advance for any assistance you can provide.   With kind regards, Guy
  3. This down draft fan low speed fan quit working early in the year the high speed quit working early July.  I had DC voltage coming into the board From the J4 connector cable coming from PCB.   12vdc  drops down to 7vdc when low speed is activate & basically zeros out when off.  No voltage to either relay coming out.  I have a 118vac going into the relay spade coming directly from theterminal block.   I replaced the downdraft board & fan speeds worked fine then.   Client said that she used the oven fans maybe 3 times in the following several weeks (I believe that)   I am back to square one now which same thing DC voltage in No relay voltage out.   I jumped the high speed side of motor out & it runs.   I did not jump the low speed out for fear of damaging wiring from standstill.   Is it possible that my fan motor is drawing to much currant as to be taking the relays out or am I grasping at air.  I did not think to take wattage of fan motor when jumping.  I had low ohms when I checked for resistance but nothing I can find to compare them to.   Should I be backing up to the PCB? 
  4.   This dishwasher keeps giving i20 codes moer and more frequently.  The interface, rear control panel and drain pump have all been replaced.  Once a part was relpaced, it worked ok for a little while, but soon started giving the code again.  Frigidaire says the code means the unit isn't draining, but it drains completely and quickly.  Any other ideas what could cause this code?    
  5. Good afternoon fellow appliance gurus.....got an issue here I have been working on for a few weeks now and can't seem to get it under control. I got called to a customer's Frigidaire Gallery Bottom Freezer refrigerator for complaints of the fresh food section getting warm. They said they started to notice it getting warmer when the weather outside got warm as well. I went there and opened up the freezer and it was completely iced up as well as up the chute to the ice maker in the fresh food section. It even looked a little frosted up in the ice maker evaporator section as well. I unplugged the fridge and let it completely thaw out. I tested all known functions of both the freezer and ice maker defrost systems. The heaters and thermostats tested out fine so I thought maybe it just needed a good thaw.   After allowing it to thaw and plugging it back in the customer said it worked fine for about a week and a half but once again got warm in the fresh food section. I returned to the home and saw the freezer had frosted completely over again. I know this fridge model has issues with the ice maker so I decided to unhook the ice maker and see if by some chance that was where the issue was. Thawed the fridge again and went on my way.   One week later the customer called again and said the same symptoms have returned. My question is is it possible that the freezer thermostat is sticking and would still need to be replaced if it tested well? Anything else I can test? Is it something with the control panel? Any and all suggestions would be appreciated. I am at a loss right this moment and would welcome any and all ideas.   P.S I ran both the fridge and ice maker diagnostic tests and everything appeared fine.   Thanks in advance all!
  6. Does anyone know whether the door swing can be reversed on the Whirlpool Duet GGW9250WPO dryer and the Whirlpool Duet GHW9400PWO washer??  The dryer appears as if it might be able to be accomplished but washer looks less promising.  They are both about 2005-2006 vintage machines.  Any one had any experience with this?  Thanks for your comments.
  7. Just installed a new control board. starter relay and run capacitor are showing no life on testing. There's no clicking on plugin at all. No resistance when testing with ohm meter on either run capacitor or relay. Compressor is testing fine from electrical standpoint.    Before I purchase a new overload start relay and run capacitor, I have a question. It doesn't appear that any current is even making it to the start relay. Does this make sense?
  8. Konnichiwa friends,   I have an issue with a Kitchen Aid Ice Machine model #:KUIS185JBL0   I have done much research through the forums here in Appliantology, and several other sights but am finding no answers.    My question is that the hot gas valve, or reversing valve solenoid, whichever you want to call it, is failing. The ice is getting stuck on the CLEAN evaporator plate. I am going to do a continuity test on the solenoid, but I am curious about how to replace this part 759112    http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Reversing-Valve/759112/708901?ss=-x373539313132&mr=0   I am asking because I think this may be a welding job, and I want to be prepared if so.    Thanks for taking the time for answering my Grasshoppa question.   sinceriously,  Wayne (future Master Samurai Tech enrolee)      . 
  9. This unit opened the thermal fuse, thus had a lit control board but a non functioning dryer.   I replaced the fuse with an electrolux limit (same temp rating, 222f) & monitored the operating thermostat which cycled OK.    Got a call 30 minutes after I left that the dryer went dead again.   Searching a parts diagram I found a part labeled relay.   I have had the whirlpool even heat dryers have stuck relays with the relay stuck closed & overheating the dryer & blowing the thermal limit out.   I am wondering has any other tech had experience with this unit, especially with the fuse being burnt.   I would have replace the 'thermal control' (operating 'stat) with a whirlpool if I had one (need better inventory control).  I really don't know at the moment what is causing the limit to overheat, it is not the dryer venting (short & clear)   Looking forward to experiance with this model.    My 1st time.
  10. Hi, I REALLY need help, please!  Model no.: PSS26MSWASS Serial no.: LM436265   Right now, the fresh food and freezer compartments are not cooling at all.   Let me list the order in which things broke:   1. First, the water and ice dispenser stopped working. The lighted buttons for "crushed ice," "water," etc. would still light up, but as soon as you tried to dispense into a glass, the lights would shut off and nothing would happen.   2. Next, the ice maker stopped working.    3. Then, the entire cooling system stopped working.   4. The refrigerator would periodically make a clicking sound, the condenser fan did not work, and the compressor was hot, so I checked the start relay. The start relay did rattle, so I replaced that part.    5. When I plugged the refrigerator back in, it turned on, but the condenser fan moved EXTREMELY slowly. It was difficult to tell if it was even moving at all. Of course, the water/ice dispenser still wouldn't work.   6. My dad thought he was smelling a slight burning smell (although I didn't smell anything...) and figured that since the condenser fan wasn't working, it should just be left unplugged.    7. So, is it true that if the condenser fan isn't running properly, the entire cooling mechanism won't work? I guess it won't speed up as it goes along, will it...? :/ So we are at a loss for what to do next...   Please help me!!!  Thank you SO much! You are awesome!
  11. I have a Northland Desginer Series Refrigerator with top freezer. Does anyone have a parts diagram or can tell me where the overload relay is located? Thanks.
  12. I made a major amateur mistake on a Frigidaire Gallery electric dryer 2 weeks ago and it cost me today. I was installing the rear bearing kit part number: Part number: WE25X10001   The tiny little stainless steel ball that goes in the rear bearing, GOES BEHIND THE PLASTIC BEARING!!!!!   I put it in front (where there really is no room at all for it when the drum mount ball bearing slides in) and eventually the ball worked to the bottom of the white plastic bearing.  This caused the small ball to dig a massive line through the large ball bearing mounted to the back of the drum as well as causing terrible screeching (even with the high temp lube).    My bad. My call back. My time.  My money lost. MAJOR BUMMER for simply not putting a small metal ball in the correct place!!! THE BACK OF THE PLASTIC BEARING....NOT THE FRONT!!!! I stand humbled.   Lesson learned. I just wanted to share this with other techs and DIY'ers.      ....Its a good thing my customers were so nice and appreciative.  I've had others not so accepting of mishaps.
  13. Early June I had a locked up EOC with a F10 error code ~runaway temp.  Tossed my notes, but temp prob ohm'd out around 1100, so replaced EOC.   A week or two later customer called back saying cooling fan was running constantly, but everything else worked fine. I returned and she said she thinks the fan was running constantly pre-EOC replacement, but forgot to tell me (I don't remember it running constantly after rechecking replacement of EOC).  I replaced the Cooling Relay and all seemed fine until mid August, where now the relay is buzzing loudly.  Initially I took pics b4 removing it, but possible that I mis-wired connections on relay when I replaced it? ***   In addition, the cooling fan only seems to run on low when oven or broil is on, so just to test it, I switched the 2 wires going to the fan coming from the fan thermostat & put oven in bake & broil and both times high speed worked.  I left it there for now and ordered the "Low / High Speed Thermostat" (not the "Fan Hold Thermostat" in schematic) and another Cooling Relay.  Everything else still works fine. My question:  Was the cooling fan "Low Speed/High Speed Thermostat" the problem and not the relay all along?  Could that account for the F10 initially?  ***Confused about the switching of the Cooling Relay also.  According to the schematic, I thought it should take place from "normally closed" to "normally open" when energized by bake or broil, no?   And the Fan Hold Thermostat, is it in place to keep the fan energized after bake/broil is shut off until total cool down? Thank You for your input in advance.  ~Chris Frigidaire Wall Oven FEB27S5GCB II.pdf
  14. Electromechanical relay failure on Power Board       My 82 year-old mom’s left front burner failed some months ago. Last night she did something with the controls and noticed that the burner came on! Then it went off. She fiddled with the controls again. At some point, white smoke was pouring out; enough so that she was quite alarmed. She called me as she tripped the circuit breaker. I opener her up (the range, not my mom) and took a look-see. I am calling it a blown relay requiring a power board replacement.    Check out my photos and please tell me if I am on the right track, and if I've overlooked anything.   Photo link: http://drcarl.smugmug.com/Other/Range/42466952_nsm3DG   Main question:  What causes an electromechanical relay failure on a power board such as the one found on this range?   Is Power Board replacement the correct first remedy?   (please follow link above and see shot of whole back of range) Need I have any concern over...   1) Stain on "box"?   2) Discoloration around, and rising up from ... whatever the round thing is?   3a) Marks rising from fan motor assembly? 3b) Material dripping down from fan motor assy? (see close-up shot)   What should I ask (or do) that I have failed to ask about (or do)?   Replace the board?   Thanks in advance,    DrCarl   Frigidaire Model: PLEF398ACA Power Board: Spitfire Controls – 316239403  ESEC5 Pwr Brd
  15. Hello, I am replacing the relay/control board in my Thermador C302UW but am finding it difficult to verify the correct replacement part number: 486908 or 486909. I can't find a readable, clear parts list or diagram that specifies which part number is for the double oven version. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  16. Have an Amana Bc20jw refrigerator. Have diagnosed it as having a bad start relay. According to numerous web sites and the local appliance parts dealer, the original part has been replaced by a Whirlpool 61003103. We ordered the part and received it, but it really doesn't look anything like the original, and we can't figure out how to install it. The new housing that came with it doesn't appear to fit on the compressor and there are "extra" wires that there aren't any terminals for. The old part was one piece with two prongs that plugged in. Numbers on the old part are PTH490D - AS4R7. Internet search for that part is not turning up anything helpful . Sure hope someone can walk us through installing the new part.
  17. Looking for service manual. Need to know how to crack it open.
  18. I am receiving an E5E error code for a model GLTF2940ES0 washing machine. I have checked all connection on control board and motor control board and still receive the error. The machine starts to fill, stops, starts, but never really washes clothes. The drain pump is doing the same, running for a second and shutting off. I had problems with items clogging the pump beforee and decided to check it out, it seemed like it was hard to spin. is this normal? Could the pump be an issue even if the machine displays the E5E error code?  I decided to watch the machine one more time before posting this and its doing something completely different, nothing engages and the error code displayed is E14 indicating a reed switch issue!    Pleas help!
  19. I have an older Amana GUC gas/forced-air furnace that has an AP5522K relay.  Would anybody know the difference of a AP5222K relay that seems to be much more available?
  20. Hi my GE GSH25SGPASS fans running but compressor is cold, inside compartment lights on and fans blowing. I took out the relay and shaked a bit, little rattling not sure if it is bad. I did tested the prongs of compressor, it gives 8ohm, 3ohm and 5ohm, so I am not sure if it is ok, it doesn't show the shorted sign either. A little bit background: right after we got home after 3 days vacation, the moment we walk into the door I can hear the refrig's noise is not normal, a little bit rush and some clickings. I opened the door and found that freezing stopped but air blows. So I adjusted temp down to 0 and back up again, now only fans runs not even a clicking noise as before. Any idea? I suspect that relay is out. Also btw: how do I tell which 3in1 to buy if that is an alternative to try out? I got a compressor says C-BE175L2G M, V115 Hz60 PH1
  21. Version

    29 downloads

    Viking Technical Bulletin: Replacement PM010129 Relay Models: DEDO200 DEDO205 DEDO270 DEDO275 DESO100 DESO105 DESO170 DESO175 VDSC305 VDSC307 VDSC365 VDSC367 VDSC485 VDSC487 VEDO205 VEDO276 VESO105 VESO176 PUB TC-0010A-SP AUGUST 2008 Replacement relay part link: Part number: AP5317437
  22. File Name: Viking Technical Bulletin: Replacement PM010129 Relay File Submitter: Samurai Appliance Repair Man File Submitted: 21 Jan 2014 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Viking Technical Bulletin: Replacement PM010129 Relay Models: DEDO200 DEDO205 DEDO270 DEDO275 DESO100 DESO105 DESO170 DESO175 VDSC305 VDSC307 VDSC365 VDSC367 VDSC485 VDSC487 VEDO205 VEDO276 VESO105 VESO176 PUB TC-0010A-SP AUGUST 2008 Replacement relay part link: Part number: AP5317437 Click here to download this file
  23. Front loading Frigidaire gallery will not drain and spin on regular cycles. The appliance only drains and spins when switched to drain cycle. Washer fills up, and stops working.
  24. excuse me if this has been answered but couldn't find it in a search.    I have a VDSC4856.  The left side (small) oven will not self clean.  Turn control to self clean temp to clean and nothing.  The right side works fine hear a click in back light comes on door locks.  Just before it quit self cleaning occasionally the oven would enegize the lock when starting regular baking.   I was told it was a control board, replaced it, no change.  Now have the repair manual from this site, thanks BTW, and looks like it may be relay 2 and or 3.  It appears relay 2 energizes relay 3.  Before you ask yes I could pull the beast out take off the back check voltages, reassemble and push it back, order relays then repeat the process.    Unless anyone else has a better suggestion should I purchase two relays, PM010025?   Thanks!!
  25. Marvel 6sbar601

    Hi REG! is there a service manual for this? I need to know the resistances of the ntc in order to rule out the relay stays at 404 to 434 ohms while running with the relay jumped out. Any tech manual would be greatly appreciated. Thanks as always!!