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Converting a valve DSK-65-LP

Dearborn

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32 replies to this topic

#1 joebudd

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Posted 26 December 2011 - 09:55 AM

Hi
I would like to say hello to everyone. I have looked online and have contacted what is left of Dearborn. Everything seems to be top secret. My question is where can I get a parts manual for my wall heater?
I search and search and find nothing. I need help. Thanks

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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 26 December 2011 - 12:38 PM

OBSOLETE FURNACES
"The following list of Williams brand or Williams manufactured furnaces are obsolete and there are no replacement parts"
http://www.inspector...eteFurnaces.pdf
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#3 joebudd

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Posted 26 December 2011 - 02:36 PM

Yes the heater is not made anymore and the company is gone. But there are people that are selling parts. The heater is a Dearborn. The reason I want a parts manual is to make sure everything is there and to cross reference parts.

#4 Bobice

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Posted 26 December 2011 - 03:31 PM

http://www.dearbornheater.com/
Retired US Army Refrigeration Specialist / NYC Board of Education HVAC/R (Retired)
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#5 joebudd

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Posted 26 December 2011 - 07:13 PM

I have been to Dearborn. No real info.

#6 joebudd

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 04:16 PM

Ok forget the paper work. I had the burner out on the bench and unable to keep it burning. Took the valve apart and there was corrosion in it. I don't think there coil/solenoid works correctly either. So now I need a new valve. Now if someone can steer me in the corect direction. I will tell you what I need. Valve needs to have 1/2 in 1/2 out at 90 degrees, 24vac 1/2psi, needs a pilot, thermocouple, A knob with off/on/LO. Needs to be LP and at least 65000 BTU's. Can someone help come up with a part number so I can look at the specs. Thanks

#7 jumptrout

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 06:29 PM

What are the model numbers on your valve?
Robertshaw probably has a cross.

#8 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 07:10 PM

Does it look like this ?
Robertshaw Natural Gas or L.P. Gas Valve:
OPTIONAL PARTS LISTED @ BOTTOM OF PAGE
Replaces Obsolete Gas Valve Part Numbers:

7000AERB5S7C 7000 AERB-5-S7C 7000AERB-5S7C 720-402 U745643 MG-055N 624583 624583B V8200F2520 720402 720DER, 7A7A18-001, 7A18001, 7A7A18-001, CARL37541; TF-5, P-1027, CAR4E400; CAR720402.
click on picture
Posted Image
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#9 joebudd

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 09:16 PM

The valve is a essex alpha tafco TF-5. The picture of the valve looks like it might work depending on the in and the out. The pilot really needs to be on the input side, but I can make it work. The big thing is it needs a standing pilot and a manual hi and low heat setting. It is going in a wall furnace for the garage. "Little use". Size 4x4x3.

#10 joebudd

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 10:53 PM

I found the original valve.

#11 joebudd

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 05:01 PM

Ok minor problem. The valve I have states (set 10"). The valve I am looking at buying because it looks the same states
(set 3.5"). Is mine LP and the other natural gas? Now can I convert it easily? Thanks

#12 joebudd

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 05:58 PM

I found a new old stock valve. Only problem mine is (set 10") and the new is (set 3.5"). Remember the Valve is old and parts are not available. Can I convert the valve? The springs in the my valve are corroded.

#13 jumptrout

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 07:36 PM

No. The springs are what creates the pressure.
Gas valve rebuilding is not a hobby.

#14 joebudd

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 08:18 PM

It's not rocket science. I read use correct tools. Are there springs I can buy? Remember it is an older valve. Essex...Attached File  TDV0234 (Small).jpg   24.05KB   5 downloads

#15 kdog

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 08:57 PM

Topics merged
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#16 Dan Webster

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 12:33 AM

That big flat blade screw has a push pin under it. Remove the LP pin out of your old one and put it in that 3.5 valve if you have LP gas. If you have then nat gas then use it like it is.

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#17 joebudd

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 05:13 PM

Ok just to make sure I understand everything correctly. On my valve I removed the screw and it appears to be a screw in orifice. I then removed the housing cover and a spring was under it. Now the orifice is corroded and might not be easily removed. If I remove it I will then have to set it for the (10"). I think I would be better off leaving the orifice in the cover and just transfer the cover. One other thing are the screw in orifices for that housing a common thing. How to setup??????

#18 Dan Webster

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 11:14 PM

Show a pic of all sides of that valve.
The screw beneath the scew is probably the pilot adjustment screw.

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#19 Shootist

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 11:20 PM

Just be careful, joebudd. There are some things that should be left broken.

#20 joebudd

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Posted 05 January 2012 - 08:10 PM

Here are the pics.

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