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An Introduction to R600a and Lokring


Son of Samurai

22,545 views

We’ve all been hearing about R600a refrigerant for years now, and the reality is that it’s no longer an innovation in the area of household refrigeration; it’s the new standard.

With the majority of new refrigerators now being R600a models, repair companies need to be ready to perform sealed system repairs on them. This raises a few questions for these companies: how is R600a different from R134a, and what do I need to service R600a refrigerators?

R600a (let's just call it R600 from here on out)  is a chemical called isobutane with properties that make it desirable as a refrigerant. Refrigerators that run on R600 still work in the same way that R134a refrigerators do – we’re not reinventing refrigeration here. But R600 systems do have different specifications compared to R134a ones, since R600 has different properties (boiling point, etc.).

The big reason why we have new techniques and tools for servicing R600 is because this refrigerant is flammable. As you might have gathered from its chemical name, R600 is an isomer of butane, very similar to what you might find in a lighter. For this reason, the old tried-and-true method of sealed system repair involving brazing is no longer considered safe by some manufacturers.

Now, there’s some debate as to how unsafe it really is – after all, a typical R600 sealed system contains less than a BIC lighter’s worth of butane spread throughout dozens of feet of tubing. In fact, manufacturer opinion is evolving, and some of them are now allowing brazing as an option provided certain procedures are followed.

But for those that don’t want to worry about extra precautions when brazing, that’s where Lokring comes in. Lokring is a set of tools and fittings that allows for sealed system repairs without any need for brazing. It does this by using special pressure fittings which, when properly installed, create completely airtight seals.

Let’s walk through the different Lokring components you need to do R600 sealed system work. Note that these are in addition to the standard tools needed for any sealed system work (vacuum pump, recovery bags, gauge manifold, etc.).

Tubing cutter

51tzA1VmwSS._AC_SS450_.jpg

This is one of the most inexpensive parts of the tool list, but essential for getting the job done right. In order to ensure a hermetic seal with your Lokring connectors, you need clean cuts on the tubing, with no crimping or deformation. I recommend a compact cutter, like the one pictured above. Depending on the job, you sometimes have to make repairs in really cramped corners of the machine, so a bulky tool will just get in the way.

Lokprep

 

LOKPREP 65G.jpg

Lokprep is an anaerobic sealant (not an adhesive) that fills the tiny gaps between the tubing and the Lokring fittings. It must be evenly and completely applied to both tubing ends before they are inserted into the fitting for a proper seal.

Lokring Assembly Tool

Screen Shot 2022-04-27 at 1.49.57 PM.png

Here are the famous Lokring clamps. This is the tool that the tech uses to squeeze Lokring connectors into place, locking the two pieces of tubing together and, if done correctly, creating a perfect seal.

Lokring connectors

Screen Shot 2022-04-27 at 1.56.01 PM.png

Lastly, the connectors themselves. These are where the investment (and some of the headache) of Lokring comes in. In order to be properly prepared for the various kinds of sealed system repairs he could encounter, a tech needs to be stocked with a wide variety of fittings.

Sealed system tubing varies from 2mm to 11mm in diameter throughout the refrigerator, and the connector needs to match the diameter of the tubing. When the tubes that need to be joined are of different diameters, you need a reducer-type connector that’s properly sized for both.

Screen Shot 2022-04-27 at 1.54.51 PM.png

In addition to diameter, material has to be taken into consideration. The standard brass connectors can’t be used to join aluminum tubing due to galvanic corrosion, so any connections that involve aluminum must use an aluminum connector. Aluminum tubing is usually found around the evaporator, while elsewhere in the refrigerator (such as the machine compartment) will generally have copper tubing.

The upshot of these different connector sizes and materials is this: first getting into Lokring will be an investment. Each individual connector costs between $5-12, and with how many a tech needs to have on hand, that can add up. A typical Lokring starter kit can easily cost upwards of $1,000.

Don’t let that spook you, though. Sealed system work, when done intelligently, can have huge profit margins. In the end, you need to make the call on whether R600 servicing is right for your business – and hopefully this article helps you do that!

Wondering where to buy Lokring? Vulkan, the company that develops and produces Lokring, does not distribute its products itself. So if you’re looking to purchase some Lokring kits, you would want to turn to your preferred appliance parts distributor.

Want to train techs who will be prepared for anything they encounter in the field? Click here to check out our online, in-depth appliance repair training courses at Master Samurai Tech.

  • Like 11
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49 Comments


Recommended Comments



mehoss

Posted (edited)

I've been using Lokring for several years now.  I'll share some gems with the team...  

Buy Lokring using Whirlpool part numbers, in many cases you get TWO connectors with one part number.  For example the 6mm/6mm is part number W10896709 and it comes with 2.  the Lokring part is L13000588 and includes only 1 AND costs more.  

Attached is the chart I made and is attached to my Lokring toolbox.  It shows the Lokring and Whirlpool part numbers (the parenthesis show how many you get in the Whirlpool bag) for each size.  The QTY is simply how many I happened to have in stock at the time.

 

Toolbox page1.jpg

Toolbox page2.jpg

Edited by mehoss
  • Like 7
  • Thanks 3
mehoss

Posted

On 6/18/2022 at 1:08 PM, Rhubarb Tau said:

the issue I've run into is frosting at the tank/bottle if I'm not using a tank heater, tank pressure seems to peter out just before I get to the label charge. 

 

I bring a heat gun with me on every R134a job now.  It convinces the last 6 ounces of refrigerant out of the can quite nicely.

  • Like 1
Ken King

Posted (edited)

Can I use the same manifold and hoses on R600 that I used on R134A?

Edited by Ken King
Ken King

Posted

On 6/21/2022 at 9:59 AM, mehoss said:

Dirty hands even when they look clean is settled science.   A minuscule essence of mineral oil in my R134a system, I'm not yet convinced this is an existential threat.  "Not compatible" can mean many things.  Diesel and water are not compatible, but I guarantee that I have water in my diesel fuel.  I blow nitrogen through everything and on to the next job.   I'm working on household refrigerators, not trying to keep Ray Kurzweil's body frozen for 100 years.  I have a huge lokring collection and 3 crimpers, I'm still brazing R600a at times.  I just follow the standard procedure to get it all out first.  One thing I use now to braze is a resistance braze, no flame, no nitrogen flow required, makes a perfect braze every time.  These things are awesome!

 

10577

+++.jpg

This thing looks awesome, has anyone else tried this?

Far field

Posted

No I have not. I want to learn more about it. What investment did you make? I shyed away from lok-ring due to cost. At my age I doubt a ROI is in my future on anything I spend over $750. 

Far field

Posted

No I have not. I want to learn more about it. What investment did you make? I shyed away from lok-ring due to cost. At my age I doubt a ROI is in my future on anything I spend over $750. 

Rhubarb Tau

Posted

My former employer had one (resistance brazing machine), much older and bulkier than the one pictured. I tried it when I was first starting sealed system work in their shop. I had quite a bit of prior welding and brazing experience, and it worked as advertised, but I never tried using it on an actual repair, just practice joints.

The only advantages I can see is saving on gas refill costs, and the ability to shield the joint with an inert gas stream to make really pretty joints, though I haven't seen one set up for purge gas. Neither really tips the scales for me, and torches are a known quantity that I'm fairly confident won't crap the bed in the middle of a repair

  • Team Samurai
Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Posted

On 3/12/2023 at 11:05 PM, Ken King said:

Can I use the same manifold and hoses on R600 that I used on R134A?

This is a good question. It really comes down to the compatibility of the lubricating oils used because some oils do not mix well, form congealates (clots), or other undesirable mixing products. Sometimes, the refrigerant itself may react with a different kind of oil. 

Many R600a systems use a synthetic oil based on polyalkylene glycols (PAG). Many R134a systems use a synthetic oil based on polyol esters (POE). The recommendation from compressor manufacturers is to not mix these two oils. 

But then we get into the question of "how much is too much?" Many times when we do sealed system repairs, we're changing the compressor and then filter dryer, too. And most of the oil is stored in the compressor. Some oil is also distributed throughout the system. But much of this is blown out with nitrogen leaving only trace amounts. Similarly, your manifold gauge will only contain trace amounts of the other oil. In other words, not a problem. 

Can we use the same gauges for R134a and R600a systems? There's no physical reason that I know of that would prevent this. It's common to find combo gauges for R404a, R22, and R134a. But I have not found a combo gauge that includes R600a-- they all seem to be stand alone, single refrigerant gauges. Why? No good reason I can think of other than the remote chance of liability because of the freakout over R600a being flammable. We can thank lawyers for this silliness. 

However, there is a work around. Just because the saturation temperature scales do or do not include a particular refrigerant, you can still use that gauge for any refrigerant. As long as you can read the pressure (not the associated saturation temperature), you can use that gauge for any refrigerant if you have the P-T table for that refrigerant. 

For example, let's suppose you're using your R134a gauges on an R600a system and you measure a low side pressure of 22 psig. What's the corresponding saturation temperature?

1998181550_R600aSealedSystemServicingTrainingLGEAI_pdf.png

The gauge won't tell you because it's not scaled for R600a. But your R600a P-T table or Danfoss app will! Just ignore the temperature scale on your gauge, select R600a in the Danfoss app, plug in your pressure, and read the associated saturation temperature: 58F. 

 

  • Like 3
Ken King

Posted

On 3/14/2023 at 9:43 AM, Samurai Appliance Repair Man said:

This is a good question. It really comes down to the compatibility of the lubricating oils used because some oils do not mix well, form congealates (clots), or other undesirable mixing products. Sometimes, the refrigerant itself may react with a different kind of oil. 

Many R600a systems use a synthetic oil based on polyalkylene glycols (PAG). Many R134a systems use a synthetic oil based on polyol esters (POE). The recommendation from compressor manufacturers is to not mix these two oils. 

But then we get into the question of "how much is too much?" Many times when we do sealed system repairs, we're changing the compressor and then filter dryer, too. And most of the oil is stored in the compressor. Some oil is also distributed throughout the system. But much of this is blown out with nitrogen leaving only trace amounts. Similarly, your manifold gauge will only contain trace amounts of the other oil. In other words, not a problem. 

Can we use the same gauges for R134a and R600a systems? There's no physical reason that I know of that would prevent this. It's common to find combo gauges for R404a, R22, and R134a. But I have not found a combo gauge that includes R600a-- they all seem to be stand alone, single refrigerant gauges. Why? No good reason I can think of other than the remote chance of liability because of the freakout over R600a being flammable. We can thank lawyers for this silliness. 

However, there is a work around. Just because the saturation temperature scales do or do not include a particular refrigerant, you can still use that gauge for any refrigerant. As long as you can read the pressure (not the associated saturation temperature), you can use that gauge for any refrigerant if you have the P-T table for that refrigerant. 

For example, let's suppose you're using your R134a gauges on an R600a system and you measure a low side pressure of 22 psig. What's the corresponding saturation temperature?

1998181550_R600aSealedSystemServicingTrainingLGEAI_pdf.png

The gauge won't tell you because it's not scaled for R600a. But your R600a P-T table or Danfoss app will! Just ignore the temperature scale on your gauge, select R600a in the Danfoss app, plug in your pressure, and read the associated saturation temperature: 58F. 

 

If you have digital / electronic gages, would you still need to use the table? Won't the electronic gages figure that out for you?

Rhubarb Tau

Posted

On 3/15/2023 at 6:31 PM, Ken King said:

Won't the electronic gages figure that out for you?

Yep. I think the point @Samurai Appliance Repair Man was making is if you don't have gauges with a saturation temp scale for a particular refrigerant like R600a, then you can use a chart or app to convert actual pressure to saturation temp for any refrigerant.

Electronic gauges generally have built-in conversions for any refrigerant you're likely to see, like having an analog gauge with scales shown for every refrigerant, so not much need for the Danfoss app if you have a set

  • Like 2
mehoss

Posted

I have some confessions to make, I don't often look at the refrigerant specific ticks on the gauges.  When I work on a particular brand I kind of know what to look for.  For example on LG linear using R134a, with the system off, I look for about 60psi on high and low sides when the place is reasonably comfortable.  I adjust if I'm working in a hot or cold place like a garage etc.  If it appears to be about right and not cooling, I usually assume that a leak is not the reason it is not cooling.  If less than that at rest, I do a full leak test with nitrogen and leak detectors of all sorts.  Also after replacing the compressor and charging to exact grams of refrigerant, I don't put the gauges back on.  If the condenser starts warming mildly and the low side going into the compressor is cool, I put the back cover on and leave.  I've not been called back when those things are true.  On the other hand, if the condenser is a little cool, I slap gauges on and the few times it has happened, it has been a clog in the filter and low was going into vacuum.  The other little hint is the refrigerant goes in FAST (vapor)!  Once was a Lokring (of all things) that I think I may have put a bit too much of that magic blue sealant, but I haven't spent the time for a post-mortem yet.  the other was where the braze sealed the cap tube.  That resistance brazer setup is expensive, I think they may be about 1500-1800 new.  I got a used one to start with, then bought just a new head unit as a backup.

Far field

Posted

On 3/14/2023 at 9:43 AM, Samurai Appliance Repair Man said:

This is a good question. It really comes down to the compatibility of the lubricating oils used because some oils do not mix well, form congealates (clots), or other undesirable mixing products. Sometimes, the refrigerant itself may react with a different kind of oil. 

Many R600a systems use a synthetic oil based on polyalkylene glycols (PAG). Many R134a systems use a synthetic oil based on polyol esters (POE). The recommendation from compressor manufacturers is to not mix these two oils. 

But then we get into the question of "how much is too much?" Many times when we do sealed system repairs, we're changing the compressor and then filter dryer, too. And most of the oil is stored in the compressor. Some oil is also distributed throughout the system. But much of this is blown out with nitrogen leaving only trace amounts. Similarly, your manifold gauge will only contain trace amounts of the other oil. In other words, not a problem. 

Can we use the same gauges for R134a and R600a systems? There's no physical reason that I know of that would prevent this. It's common to find combo gauges for R404a, R22, and R134a. But I have not found a combo gauge that includes R600a-- they all seem to be stand alone, single refrigerant gauges. Why? No good reason I can think of other than the remote chance of liability because of the freakout over R600a being flammable. We can thank lawyers for this silliness. 

However, there is a work around. Just because the saturation temperature scales do or do not include a particular refrigerant, you can still use that gauge for any refrigerant. As long as you can read the pressure (not the associated saturation temperature), you can use that gauge for any refrigerant if you have the P-T table for that refrigerant. 

For example, let's suppose you're using your R134a gauges on an R600a system and you measure a low side pressure of 22 psig. What's the corresponding saturation temperature?

1998181550_R600aSealedSystemServicingTrainingLGEAI_pdf.png

The gauge won't tell you because it's not scaled for R600a. But your R600a P-T table or Danfoss app will! Just ignore the temperature scale on your gauge, select R600a in the Danfoss app, plug in your pressure, and read the associated saturation temperature: 58F. 

 

Thats how it all works. Gages don’t have room for all the refrigerants. Sporlan used to have a card with the top Refrigerants p n t charts listed.  And those cards had pressure recommendations for setting the pressure controls up for off cycle defrost on walkins and reach Ins. Who ever thought that was the good old days?

Madison

Posted

Can I used for r134 

Rhubarb Tau

Posted

On 5/27/2023 at 7:22 PM, Madison said:

Can I used for r134 

Do you mean Lokring or P-T charts? Either way, yes! 

I get the sense that the industry is moving away from Lokring, but sure, you can use it on any refrigerant. 

As far as P-T charts and gauges, the same principles apply to any refrigerant; there are a lot of great threads on the site and some fantastic tutorials on refrigeration physics and thermodynamics posted by @Samurai Appliance Repair Man and @Son of Samurai

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Terry Carmen

Posted

5 hours ago, Rhubarb Tau said:

I get the sense that the industry is moving away from Lokring,

Back to brazing or to a Lokring competitor?

  • Like 1
Rhubarb Tau

Posted

20 hours ago, Terry Carmen said:

Back to brazing or to a Lokring competitor?

It's been a while since I've been in the "authorized" servicer loop, but I believe both Frigidaire and Whirlpool, as well as Liebherr had initially required sealed system repairs on R600a units under wty be completed with Lokring, and in the past 1-2 years I believe all three have backed off that requirement and now either explicitly or tacitly allow brazing for wty SS repairs

  • Thanks 2
98repair

Posted

Hey guys! Trying to learn how to do lokrings. And probably my question is stupid, but author said connector must match size of tubing. So I tried 8mm connector and its doesnt fit on 8mm tubing. Do I need to sand paper it so it will fit or there is something wrong with sizing? Thanks 

Terry Carmen

Posted

If the connector doesn't fit it's the wrong size connector or the tube is out of round.

The lock ring kit should have come with calipers for measuring the OD of the tubing.

  • Like 2
98repair

Posted

So this is my situation. Feels like all lokrings when you measure ID it’s never what specs says… for example 7mm lokring with tool shows up as 6.7mm… and of course it’s impossible to put it on 7mm tube…pros please let me know how you pick connectors according to size of tube. Thanks in advance 

IMG_0583.jpeg

IMG_0584.jpeg

98repair

Posted

On 7/13/2022 at 8:18 AM, mehoss said:

I've been using Lokring for several years now.  I'll share some gems with the team...  

Buy Lokring using Whirlpool part numbers, in many cases you get TWO connectors with one part number.  For example the 6mm/6mm is part number W10896709 and it comes with 2.  the Lokring part is L13000588 and includes only 1 AND costs more.  

Attached is the chart I made and is attached to my Lokring toolbox.  It shows the Lokring and Whirlpool part numbers (the parenthesis show how many you get in the Whirlpool bag) for each size.

I have a homemade Lokring tool that I used to see if I wanted to make the investment.  It works, but no ratcheting action.  It's for sale cheap, hit me up and I can send pics etc.

Toolbox page1.jpg

Toolbox page2.jpg

Maybe you can help? Would really appreciate it 

mehoss

Posted (edited)

Hey there.  So I have never run into this issue myself, but I have not done a large variety of brands.  If you are not getting 7mm on a brand new 7mm Lokring, I would question my measuring tool or measuring method first.  I doubt it is not what the factory claims.  Try contacting a Lokring factory rep perhaps?  When I do have issues with insertion, I will sand the heck out of the tube end to make a ramp that helps me get it in.  Also I will use the tube reamer tools to file the ends down.  Usually, it will slip in that way and the out of round issues will work their way out as I insert the tube.   

Edited by mehoss
Far field

Posted (edited)

I refuse to get a tool used less than 4 times a year for over $2000 with fittings that MAY work. ILL JUST vent the refrigerant pull a vacuum if I must or flush w nitrogen then braise back. It’s good practice I think to flow nitrogen anyway and if it makes it non-falmeable  all the better. I have never got a compressor in anything including air-conditioning on homes in less than an hour open to the air. I pull a vacuum every time. I watch to see if I’m pulling down and if not it’s time for nitrogen. 
 

I did get the common sizes imperial measurements from Parker 1/4,5/16,3/8 but that’s it  

so loc ring not for me anyway thanks but no thanks. 

Edited by Far field
98repair

Posted

On 12/6/2024 at 1:13 PM, mehoss said:

Hey there.  So I have never run into this issue myself, but I have not done a large variety of brands.  If you are not getting 7mm on a brand new 7mm Lokring, I would question my measuring tool or measuring method first.  I doubt it is not what the factory claims.  Try contacting a Lokring factory rep perhaps?  When I do have issues with insertion, I will sand the heck out of the tube end to make a ramp that helps me get it in.  Also I will use the tube reamer tools to file the ends down.  Usually, it will slip in that way and the out of round issues will work their way out as I insert the tube.   

So looks like lokrings for any brands manufactured by Lokring technology. So basically they all the same. So my question is how to calculate, if manufacturer is not providing part number for specific lokring \ pipe spot. What should be inner diameter comparing to the size of the pipe? And what difference is not acceptable? like 8.5mm lokring and for example 8mm pipe would not work? so you need 8.2mm lokring on 8mm pipe, but they not producing lokring like that


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