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  • Upcoming Events

    • 07 December 2024 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
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      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in the conversation for all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This event is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, December 7 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

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Posted

What are the odds that a brand new PCB has the exact same failure symptoms of the one I'm replacing? The PCB is part number EBR8380690.  As a retired Navy electronics guy, I did see brand new circuit cards that were faulty right out of the box periodically.  

Anyway, I'm requesting a quick sanity check here before I order another one. Here's what I know - Using the LG factory troubleshooting guide, I am checking for 200VAC on CON201 with the plug that goes to the compressor disconnected from the PCB, more than 30 seconds after Test mode 1 is initiated. No AC voltage at all on the power and common terminals of CON201 on the PCB. In fact, my meter keeps auto-switching to DC and jumps around between 15 - 20VDC. I have tested my meter on another source to rule out meter issues. The guide clearly say to replace the PCB. 

 Other info and previous checks leading to the PCB: 

  • Start relay (or overload switch) has continuity. 
  • We have normal input power to the PCB. 
  • We have 8.5 ohms across two compressor terminals and zeros across the others and all three terminals read open to ground. 
  • The 20uf run capacitor is within tolerance at 20.3uf. 
  • I rung out the wires from the compressor to the PCB and all is well there.
  • Everything in the fridge, fans, buttons, etc operate normally. The compressor simply will not start. 

Is there anything we are missing that can cause the output of CON201 to have no AC on it? 

Thank you! :)

  • 2 weeks later...
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  • dfphoto

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  • 16345Ed

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  • GoYamaha

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Posted

Hey you're sure the compressor is dead it's not the fans inside or outside... do you know I saw video that was mentioning test the compressor it said if it was an old style motor it would have windings showing you 6.4Ω and two lower but added together would be 6.4 if you have a bldc motor you would have a box behind and there should be a relay in a box towards you. on the pcb did you test the two fuses for continuity? Did you unplug the machine for 1 min? there is a test button on the board also did you the button light up on the pcb board it has some code that will tell you the issue.

Quote

 

 

Posted

No model number. no help. 

Posted

@16345EdHe is right @GoYamaha, I replied something because I have an RD250 LOL..

 

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