GE GTWN4250D0WS - What is the Correct Fill Amounts?

[FixOneMore]

I have acquired a GE GTWN4250D0WS clothes washer. I have included as much information as I can to provide a complete understanding of the situation.

It had a bad bearing which I have replaced. It gave a thermistor error code when in service mode and the thermistor does not measure the correct 47Ω. Oddly, is that when filling when set to hot with the lid open the water will be hot but when the lid is closed it will only use cold water. I have read about this happenin to someone else also. I do not know why that is but, I am curious to know. Anyway that also needs replaced. To test I had removed the magnet from the lid and with the lid open I can monitor the temperature while I move the magnet on and off the switch. 

This model has an agitator not the pulsator/infusor. I have read that the filling is time based when set to a manual load size and the pressure switch is only used when the load size is set to Auto sensing. Is that correct? The service mode does not show a pressure switch error. I have not tested it on Autosensing as I do not think it is performing correctly on the manual size settings. Even though the pressure switch is not utilized during manual load size selection I did blow into it to ensure the contacts click and through the tube into the tub to make sure it is not blocked on that end, although I did not do a visual inspection when taking the inner tub out when I replaced the bearing. The following are my pressure switch continuity tests. As I am not certain what is correct, does someone know if these are the correct results?

	Normal	Blown Into to actuate Switch
Orange-Brown	Continuity	Continuity
Orange-Pink	Continuity	No Continuity
Brown-Pink	Continuity	No Continuity

In my research I found a document entitled GTWN GHWN GLWN GCWN GHWN GCWP GTWP HTWP Adora Service Manual.pdf which includes my model number GTWN4250D but is not specific to my model. I read that for agitator models for each of the manual load sizes it should fill with more water than mine is currently doing. It states the following:
 

	Agitator:	Pulsator:
Small	10g	10g
Medium	12g	11g
Large	16g	13g
Extra Large	18g	14g
Super	21g	15.5g

I have the washer in the garage with the water inlet fed from a 50ft garden hose. The flow rate does not drop during any fill size. I have good water pressure that never drops below the 20PSI that the mentioned in a service manual I found of a similar washer entitled WCRE6270 WHRE5550 WJRE5500 WKRE5550 WPRE6150 8150 Service Manual.pdf. The inlet screen is not clogged.

The models in that service manual have an infusor not an agitator and based on measuring the incoming water into gallon jugs and the level inside the basket when the filling stops it seems like my water levels for all load sizes is even less than the infusor models and not close to the agitator models. The water is never up to the top screw part of the agitator and therefore never has enough water to float the clothes to turn them. Interestingly when it does the full rinse it adds more water than it did on the initial fill but still not up to the top of the screw of the agitator.

My measurements are as follows, ( I may have miscounted, not sure, by one gallon on the Super but it is not close to the first document I mentioned for agitator models or even infusor models.)
 

	Minutes	Gallons
Small	3:46	7 3/4
Medium	4:42	8 7/8
Large	5:42	11 1/2
Extra Large	6:45	13 1/8
Super	7:25	13 1/2

I cannot find a service manual for my exact model to confirm the correct fill amounts. Is there and does anyone have the service manual that is specific to this model that they can link to?

Does anyone know the correct fill amount for this exact model for each load size or the fill timing for each load size?

I ran a load on Large then when it stopped filling seeing it was not much water I switched to Super and it added a little bit more water. The total amount was obviously not enough, at least to my eye. I would not think that it is possible the incorrect functioning thermistor could cause this low fill issue but am uncertain. I am under the impression that a bad thermistor does not affect anything else.  Would a bad thermistor cause this problem and why? I have not replaced thermistor as the fill problem is a more important one to figure out as the washer can function without a good thermistor. If I am correct that the fill amount is based on a preset time for the manual load sizes and the pressure switch is not utilized I cannot imagine the amount of clothes placed in the tub has anything to do with this problem, correct?

Attached are photos of the water level from inside and outside the tub for each manual load size selection. There is also a photo from the inside and outside from the load I referenced above and the water amount when it did the full rinse.

What could cause and why am I not getting the proper fill amount, or am I? I know the generic user/owner manual that is not model specific states that it uses less water than one might be used to but the documents I have referenced seem to indicate that the agitator models fill with more water than what I am experiencing.

Any assistance in figuring out what the proper fill amount is and if mine are not correct what the problem is and how to fix it is greatly appreciated. Thank you

[dfphoto]

I'm not expert, but I was working on my girls front load and while it passed all tests on fill, there was an error code for the water inlet valve, in the end, I bought one from ebay for 25.00 and when I installed it the error code went away. In our case the machine was a 2006 and it is in a high rise condo where there is a boiler on the roof and we get a lot of sediment in the hot water... from my own research, I have found sediment can foul up the diaphragm or or valves of inlet water and this could be your issue. Also 20 psi does not sound high to me but if you checked that then okay.. This might be a stupid idea but maybe try putting 5 gallons of water in the tub and then start a super size load and see if that changes anything that could mean the timer or the valve could be something to look at.

I had a refrigerator and the display thought we were filling a cup with 48 oz of water due to the slow output of water/time our situation was a kinked water line.

Edited July 26, 2023 by dfphoto

[RobinWinter]

Pull this hose off carefully and clean out any gunk in it and the openind of the air dome it connects to.  Take care not to damage either.  Usually a blockage will cause the opposite issue of overfilling but in a case where it's not able to release all air pressure as the water drains that may cause the water level switch to trigger early on a subsequent fill.

[RobinWinter]

Sorry, I should have picked up on this when you said you were in service mode, the machine is electronically controlled which means it's not a (strictly) mechanical water level switch.  It can't be tested the way you tested it and in fact can be damaged if you blow into it.

Here is the proper testing procedure

Edited to add:  this is assuming the service documentation is correct for your model

 

 

Edited July 26, 2023 by RobinWinter
Add a note

[dfphoto]

Wow, @RobinWinter that is amazing information...always wondered how one tests pressure switches...my Klein measures F Hz are you using a meter or a scope for something like this. Thank you

[RobinWinter]

5 hours ago, dfphoto said:

@RobinWinter  are you using a meter or a scope for something like this. Thank you

Meter.  I still have no idea if there's a way to test the ones mounted directly on the board like whirlpool toploaders though

Edited July 26, 2023 by RobinWinter

[FixOneMore]

Thank you for your responses.

@dfphoto

As I mentioned in my original post the inlet screen is not clogged. I double checked and pulled out both the hot and cold plastic screens and the were indeed clean. Regarding the 20PSI I referenced from another service manual, my pressure does not go below this, therefore, water pressure is not a reason for the low fill. The information regarding the pressure switch @RobinWinter mentions can be found in the Adora Service Manual I mentioned above and perhaps elsewhere.

@RobinWinter

Although the main part of my model number is in the Adora Service manual PDF I mentioned above it does not have the same console or pressure switch. Blowing into the pressure switch and hearing the contacts click that I mentioned is a result of the movement of the diaphragm in the switch.

Although I did blow through the pressure switch tube into the tub and in it was not blocked I did take the time to remove the inner drum again and clean the air dome. I cleaned it more than any reasonable person would. The hose is clean.

Even though as I originally mentioned I had read the fill is time based it does appear as though the pressure switch is also utilized. I did the following test. I affixed a tube to the outlet of the water inlet to feed into buckets. I had the pressure switch tube disconnected from the tub. Washer set to Small. 

When I pressed start and it started filling I blew into the pressure switch tube and the water shut off. However, when I stopped blowing the water did not resume as I had seen a video which did this procedure. On the console both the Wash and Soak lights were illuminated. I am not sure if this is an error code or the reason for it, perhaps I actuated the contacts more than once. I held the start button for three seconds to cancel the cycle. I did the twice with the same results.

Next, with the same setup as above, I started the cycle and left it fill the buckets to see if it would stop after the same amount of time it did before I referenced in the original post. It surpassed the time and thus the amount of water it filled. I then blew into the pressure switch tub to stop the filling.

Therefore, it would seem that the pressure switch does play a part when a manual load size is selected and not only in the Precise Fill/Auto-Load Sensing selection. The other service manual I mentioned above is not for my model but has some similarities to mine that the Adora manual does not, even though it has my model referenced in it. Therefore, I was hoping that it would be how mine worked, but that does not seem to be the case at his point.

Now that the air dome is completely clean I am going to reassemble the tub and test again to see if I have a correct fill according to the Adora Service Manual PDF from above or if it fills the same as my original test or maybe something entirely different. As the Adora manual has discrepancies for my model I am questioning the veracity of the fill amounts in the table.

This makes me want to know if there is a service manual for my exact model and perhaps get a link to it. Or at least more of an actual service manual than the Adora document from above.
 

[dfphoto]

unfortunately, it is rare to find a manual for your exact model and it's not available to me...

you probably did all of these..

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[dfphoto]

BTW I did a quick google search and 20psi water is considered very low pressure 40-80psi is normal...

[FixOneMore]

Today's test has rather confounding results. 

After cleaning the air dome and hose thoroughly I reconnected the hose to the air dome. I connect my meter set to audible continuity between the Pink and Orange wire of the pressure switch. According to the chart in the Adora Service Manual I referenced originally to close the lower pressure switch is 8.47 gallons. 

However the other service manual I referenced, that shows the same pressure switch I have, states that the switch on those two wires is normally closed and opens when the lower level switch is actuated. So I am confused if there is incorrect wording in the Adora manual or as it shows a different style of pressure switch if that is the correct way it operates, i.e. closes when actuated.

I am going to go with the other service manual as it shows the pressure switch I have and the original continuity tests I did are in line with how it states that it works.

Back to the test with the pressure switch hose reconnected to the air dome. Load size set to small. Pressure switch continuity does stop at around 8.5 gallons, i.e. the switch opens. However, now instead of not filling with the correct amount of water for the load size it fills with too much. I filled with about 26.75 gallons. Way too much for small if the chart states it should be 10 and too much for even the Super which states 21 gallons. I thought for sure was going to overfill but it did actually turn off. I did this test twice. In between tests I disconnected power and emptied the water completely and reapplied power. 

Even stranger when I reapplied power after the second test it automatically started filling. It did this twice actually. I held the start button to stop the cycle and disconnected power. After the third reapplication of power it acted normal, i.e. did nothing.

I am very confused. Did my cleaning the air dome cause this? Why else would the water now fill too much? I am reticent to try a larger size load selection as the small is getting close to overfilling as it is. I am not sure what other tests to do. I did not go back into service mode to check if it has set any errors. Are the error codes in NVRAM or do they disappear when the power is removed? If NVRAM, then I will check tomorrow to see or I guess run a test again.

[Nathaniel Peterson]

There's no specific service manual for this model. After removing pressure tube you have to put it in spin mode for at least 1 minute to reset pressure switch. Let it fill hold button to stop cancel cycle. Put it on drain/spin, may have to open and close the lid to get it to spin quicker as to not have to wait so long. Also that thermistor code on that style I always ignored because 1, you'll have to get fill funnel due to leaking,and 2 I think it's a software issuse because I've replaced it many times and comes back most of the time. Unless you're not getting warm water just let it go. Not sure which load sizes it was but when I called tech line if I recall 4 inches from bottom of inner tub was small and 7 inches from bottom of inner tub was super. Maybe because I was new at the time but that's how they had me test pressure switch. This model was made right around the energy star regulations so not sure if water will get hot only warm. We're not allowed per our contracts to give out service information to non certified techs but you can try manual libs to see if they have one. Look for the mini-manual but it's not very informative but that's all I'm finding.

[FixOneMore]

Thank you for that information Nathaniel.

Without an actual service manual or the manufacturer including common things in the owner manual I am left to have to guess at things.

I am going to guess that when I blew into the pressure switch tube to test the pressure switch when it was filling set a pressure switch error code. It would appear that if there is a pressure switch error code set that the washer will fill with 26 gallons even when set to small. I cleared the error code in service mode and it did not fill with 26 gallons in my fill testing today. As I mentioned originally it never had a pressure swich error code, only the thermistor error code. The results of continuity test that I did originally also did not change after the pressure switch error code was set. That is another reason why I figure I caused the error code.

Also not documented is when the lid is up all LEDs will flash when in service mode position 0 and none of the positions 5-11 will actuate anything. I spent too long to come to that realization.

From what I garnered from the other service manual is that the thermistor is not checked when you choose Tap Cold. I ran all my fill tests on tap cold but I did the first set after I ran a load on warm which would have set the themistor error code. I am wondering if a thermistor error code would cause a low fill situation. I am going to test this next.

I believe my initial amounts for each load size in my original post were incorrect as one of the gallon jugs I was using was actually slightly more than 1 gallon. However, the time for each is correct, plus or minus for my to turn off the stop watch.

After the 26 gallon filling I decided to put a piece of tape on the outer tub and manually filled the tub in half gallon increments and marked the tub so that I could more accurately measure the amount of water.

Today's fill tests were done after I cleared all the codes, thermistor and pressure switch, in the service mode. Tested the fill amount on each load size from empty after I had pumped the water out. All but the first, Small size, had water in the discharge hose.

This time it worked as I would have expected it to based on the fill amounts in the Adora service manual chart for agitator models.

     

	Minutes	Gallons
Small	3:40	9.5
Medium	4:26	12.5
Large	5:46	15.5
Extra Large	6:38	18.5
Super	7:06	20

 

 

This is very strange to me. If we disregard my inaccurate volume measurements from the first test and look at the fill time it is pretty much the same. If I look back at the photos of the amount of water in the tub for each load size it looks pretty close to the same for Small and Medium but as the load size gets larger so does the difference in the amount from the first test to this one. I have no idea how the fill time can be the same but different amount of water is added. Again, it was the same setup and same water pressure for both tests. For instance, from the photos, the difference for a Large load was approximately 2 gallons. Anyone have any thoughts as to why I had the same fill time but different fill amounts?  

I am still uncertain if the pressure switch plays any part in the manual load sizes. It appears to actuates at the same point no matter the load size. I still have to test and auto-sensing load. 

After reading to check for obstructions you can blow into the pressure switch tube into the tub, I figured if you could then that was good enough. My cleaning of the air dome was just some residue on the inside walls, nothing major or large pieces creating obstructions or taking up space. I am curious how sensitive the pressure switch is. I am wondering if the cleaning of the air dome, even how minor it was, that whatever I cleaned out displaced just the slightest amount of area in the air dome thus changing the point during fill time when it was actuated and that was the reason it now appears to work properly. I did not note in my first tests what time into the filling that the pressure switch opened. Or if the thermistor error code causes a low fill.

The only things that changed during the course of my testing was me creating the pressure switch error code then clearing that and the thermitsor error code, and cleaning the air dome. I do not see anything else that would cause the discrepancies in fill amount that I have detail from the first to second set of fill tests.

I still have to test if a set thermistor error code causes a low fill on Tap cold or any other temperature setting, if it functions correctly on non-Tap Cold settings without the thermistor error code set, if the auto-sensing works(as it decides I would have no way to confirm except doing the same load twice perhaps).
 

[dfphoto]

I read a manual for a slightly different model and it explained the water level will vary depending on the weight of the load and will vary from 7-25 gallons at a rate of 2.64 gpm also it said if your water level is not correct look for debris in the water valve, or the screen, I still think 20psi is not the right amount but since the seniors have not said anything about it, then I must be wrong. good luck sounds like a tough one...

 

Edited July 31, 2023 by dfphoto

[Budget Appliance Repair]

20 Lbs water pressure is kind of the low end of OK.

Maybe if it's really that low it fluctuates to lower sometimes when you were doing the prior testing.

Edited July 31, 2023 by Budget Appliance Repair

[dfphoto]

since you did clean or check the inlet screens your valve could be the issue, my girlfriend's GE front load had this type of issue meaning water level issue and it was the valve didn't seem like it to me but kept getting an error code and her hot water is via a roof top boiler and the sediment does get around it only takes a little bit of grain/water buildup (calicum) to gum up a diaphragm

I also wonder about the pressure switch assembly and the hose maybe you should take it off check for leaks or cracks loose ends... get a meter that can show you HZ and test it that way @RobinWinter mentioned above....did you find the schematic inside the machine? you should take a look at it..

[dfphoto]

I saw this guy's video about pressure transducer and this picture is from the manual I was looking at wondering if the video might shed some light the picture looks similar maybe the board test you can try.

[FixOneMore]

I do NOT have 20 PSI water pressure. I never said I did.

I do NOT have a blocked or clogged inlet. I stated this in my original post and a second time when I took out the screens to confirm.

I do NOT not have the type of pressure switch RobinWinter referred to and said as much in reply.

The pressure switch hose is fine.

I am not sure how to check the valve as nothing can be disassembled. Both solenoids function fine as far as one is able to check. Does the solenoid open completely? Who knows. As far as I am aware there is no way to check. If there is a procedure to check such that you can compare the opening when the solenoid is engaged to what the original specification is that would be interesting to know.

The mini manual does not give any troubleshooting information, thus it is not helpful for my issue.

The new series of tests are as follows. I did not do all load sizes as I found that, as I mentioned previously, the difference could be seen in the larger load sizes.

With the thermistor code set using Tap Cold, Super load size, it fills the same amount as by second series of tests.
With the thermistor code cleared using Tap Cold, Super load size, it fills the same amount as by second series of tests.
This confirms to me the thermistor code being set does not affect fill size.

I had a thermistor from a different washer that was 50Ω at room temperature, close to the 47Ω that the mini manual sheet stated. I put this in the water fill line to see if having a thermistor reading in range made any difference to the fill amount. Since when using Tap cold does not use the thermistor I used a temperature setting of warm, just as I had did in my initial load that is pictured in my original post. 

Using both hot and cold water increased the flow rate and the washer filled faster to its set amount, however, the total fill amount was less that what the Adora manual states. Therefore I was confused once more. What could be causing it to fill fine on tap cold but when adding hot it was less. No it is not the valve, inlet screens or water pressure.  

What I did not mention originally as I would have never thought it could have made any difference was how I was feeding the hot water. Again my cold was from a hose bib through a 50ft garden hose to the washer. The hot was from a laundry room faucet with a 50ft hose attached to it. I did not think this would be a problem as when the faucet valve is fully opened I get plenty of water, more than a standard bathroom or kitchen sink. I does not have an aerator on it.

I attached my garden hose directly to the feed that goes to my washer inside and straight into the test washer. Super load size and warm temperature and it filled with 20.5 gallons. Going through the faucet it was getting 18.5g when using warm.

It was only one test and I have to do one or two more to confirm, but it looks like that might have been my problem. It must be just a small restriction to cause a change in the flow rate resulting in a low fill. 

However, this does not really resolve why my two sets of fill tests were different for the Large, Extra Large and Super. Both were done with tap cold. I wonder, as I mentioned before is cleaning the air dome somehow made a slight difference. Any way it would seem that the issue is on it way to being resolved for as many combination of settings as I feel the need to confirm it works again.

I will do a few more test loads and an auto-sensing load to confirm that it was the faucet causing a small flow rate change.

Thank you for all your input thus far, it is appreciated.

[FixOneMore]

From today's tests it would appear that indeed going through the faucet for the hot water was the cause of my problems. However, as there was the discrepancy even when just using tap cold in my tests I cannot account for that. Either cleaning the air dome did something to help or something else that I am unable to figure out allowed it to fill to the specified amounts.

I tested an Extra Large, Large and Medium load size with water temperature of warm and the fill amount was as I thought it should be. I also did a Auto-Sensing load and it did whatever magic it does and seemed to work as it is supposed to. I assume that would confirm that the pressure switch works.

I would have thought replacing the non-replaceable bearing would have been the difficult part of this project.

It seems to have developed, what I would describe as  a droning sound,  at certain spin RPM, but I do not know if there is another problem or just some resonance based on how it is sitting. If the inner shaft is riding on plain bearing and the tub bearing is also a plain bearing could any of these be causing this?

I have read that when removing the outer drum one should replace the tub seal as well. What are you thoughts on that? The main bearing did not have signs of water infiltration. It only sounded bad at a particular RPM. The nut that holds on the pulley did have some rust forming on the top side, as seen in the attached photo. But as nothing else in the entire stack up gave a visual indication that water was leaking. Just that nut. I am not sure how nothing else between the tub seal and the top side of the nut gave no sign of water leaking, if it actually did. Is is possible just the humidity of the environment over the years caused this? I have not observed any water leaking down the main shaft during all of my testing.

The last washer I did of this type the main bearing obviously had got water in it, but sounded fine. I replaced the tub seal and re-greased the bearing and everything was fine. What are your criteria for replacing tub seals? It something as simple as removing the outer drum cause for a new seal? Or is the starting to rust nut good enough reason to take the precaution?

Thanks for the patience and assistance.

[Nathaniel Peterson]

8 hours ago, FixOneMore said:

From today's tests it would appear that indeed going through the faucet for the hot water was the cause of my problems. However, as there was the discrepancy even when just using tap cold in my tests I cannot account for that. Either cleaning the air dome did something to help or something else that I am unable to figure out allowed it to fill to the specified amounts.

I tested an Extra Large, Large and Medium load size with water temperature of warm and the fill amount was as I thought it should be. I also did a Auto-Sensing load and it did whatever magic it does and seemed to work as it is supposed to. I assume that would confirm that the pressure switch works.

I would have thought replacing the non-replaceable bearing would have been the difficult part of this project.

It seems to have developed, what I would describe as  a droning sound,  at certain spin RPM, but I do not know if there is another problem or just some resonance based on how it is sitting. If the inner shaft is riding on plain bearing and the tub bearing is also a plain bearing could any of these be causing this?

I have read that when removing the outer drum one should replace the tub seal as well. What are you thoughts on that? The main bearing did not have signs of water infiltration. It only sounded bad at a particular RPM. The nut that holds on the pulley did have some rust forming on the top side, as seen in the attached photo. But as nothing else in the entire stack up gave a visual indication that water was leaking. Just that nut. I am not sure how nothing else between the tub seal and the top side of the nut gave no sign of water leaking, if it actually did. Is is possible just the humidity of the environment over the years caused this? I have not observed any water leaking down the main shaft during all of my testing.

The last washer I did of this type the main bearing obviously had got water in it, but sounded fine. I replaced the tub seal and re-greased the bearing and everything was fine. What are your criteria for replacing tub seals? It something as simple as removing the outer drum cause for a new seal? Or is the starting to rust nut good enough reason to take the precaution?

Thanks for the patience and assistance.

For insurance reasons we always replace the seal hub nut and washer whenever removing the tub. Can't risk water leaks. These washer do have a weird sound when in fast spin that normal when brand new. Not sure about droning but if you replaced the bearing I would say your ok.  Good job fixing your washer you should be a tech you obviously have the passion. Any normal diyer would've not did everything that you did and would've gave up a while ago. Blowing out the pressure dome most likely is what fixed your water issue. 

[FixOneMore]

Thanks for the compliment. I am just persistent or stubborn. 

I ordered a tub seal just to be safe. Out of curiosity do you install the seal dry or do you put a sealant like an RTV on the outer circumference to be safe that it does not leak? I read sometimes as the tub is not as stiff as it was when new putting a new seal may pop out. Not sure how much I foresee that happening but curious as to your thoughts.

Thanks again to all.

[Nathaniel Peterson]

38 minutes ago, FixOneMore said:

Thanks for the compliment. I am just persistent or stubborn. 

I ordered a tub seal just to be safe. Out of curiosity do you install the seal dry or do you put a sealant like an RTV on the outer circumference to be safe that it does not leak? I read sometimes as the tub is not as stiff as it was when new putting a new seal may pop out. Not sure how much I foresee that happening but curious as to your thoughts.

Thanks again to all.

Shouldn't have to put any sealant. If you do that means you need a new tub. Talking about the rubber tub seal. If you do use anything just to help get in I would use plumbers grease which is clear and will be safe but only enough to lightly coat the rubber seal. Never changed the bearing before.

[FixOneMore]

I got the seal and put it in dry. I pushed it far enough to seat and checked with a small mirror. To be extra safe I ran a small bead RTV around the circumference where the two meet. I let it dry overnight and when moving the tub it into the light to check with my mirror it moved a little, not enough to come out but I guess just the flexing of the tub when I moved it was enough. I pushed it back in until it seated and put it over the shaft. The friction of pushing the tub over the shaft moved it again a little bit. I again pushed it back in as far as I could and put another thin layer of RTV that attaches over the edge, as if it were overflowing, to the tub to try to adhere it better. 

I am not sure how much movement it is subject to when in use and everything secured down. The old seal seemed that it was in solid enough but I did notice a minimal amount of water in the cavities of the tub below the seal. That makes me feel better about replacing it but I am now concerned, perhaps unreasonably so, that it may come loose. I am not sure what else I can to ensure it stays put. Any thoughts? What are the chances it works itself out? Have you ever seen the tub seal come out and cause a leak? 

[Nathaniel Peterson]

5 hours ago, FixOneMore said:

I got the seal and put it in dry. I pushed it far enough to seat and checked with a small mirror. To be extra safe I ran a small bead RTV around the circumference where the two meet. I let it dry overnight and when moving the tub it into the light to check with my mirror it moved a little, not enough to come out but I guess just the flexing of the tub when I moved it was enough. I pushed it back in until it seated and put it over the shaft. The friction of pushing the tub over the shaft moved it again a little bit. I again pushed it back in as far as I could and put another thin layer of RTV that attaches over the edge, as if it were overflowing, to the tub to try to adhere it better. 

I am not sure how much movement it is subject to when in use and everything secured down. The old seal seemed that it was in solid enough but I did notice a minimal amount of water in the cavities of the tub below the seal. That makes me feel better about replacing it but I am now concerned, perhaps unreasonably so, that it may come loose. I am not sure what else I can to ensure it stays put. Any thoughts? What are the chances it works itself out? Have you ever seen the tub seal come out and cause a leak? 

If it doesn't leak on a large load you should be fine. 

[FixOneMore]

I found some time to do a few loads, super, extra large and a auto sense and I do not find any leaks from the new tub seal. I think the fill issue and any potential for the new tub seal to leak has been taken care of. Thanks again.

Although I did chase a ticking noise for those tests only to find that when I reinstalled the tub I had pushed the over flow tube back on a little too hard and the flood gasket pushed into the tub a little. Enough that on certain loads that did not balance enough the seam of the inner drum would hit on the gasket making the ticking noise.

More importantly I think the droning noise at certain RPM on spin down that I mentioned before is coming from the bottom motor bearing. I took the belt off and ran a drain and spin and it did sound suspect at spin down, not the same noise but at the same time. I took the motor out and the bearing did seam dry. It was a pain to get some grease into it as it is a shielding bearing, but it did take some and sounded a little better on the bench. I was using drill with a rubber pad to spin the motor so I could listen to it at some speed and to see the time it took to spin down from before and after I greased it. 

I ran another drain and spin with and without the belt on, nothing in the drum. Without the belt it kind of sounded worse as though now that there was grease in it any pieces inside did not have any space to be out of the way. I put the belt on and it did sound better that without and perhaps a bit better than before I greased it. I will have to see how it sounds when there is a wet load of clothes in it. 

My question is does anyone know of a good way to disassemble the motor to replace the bearings, at least the bottom one? In order to get it apart and back together I do not see a way that it can be done without taking the inverter board off. I do not know how fragile the plastic part of the sensor that is attached to the splined top of the armature shaft is and if it could be taken off and put back on without damaging it. How difficult is it to press off and back on the belt pulley? Any thoughts as to the procedure or how-to links you may know of to taking these motors apart for service is appreciated. Yes, I realize they are not meant to be repaired but that does not mean they can't. It is not a question of could it be done but should it be done. Now that it has some grease in it perhaps it is good enough but it would be interesting to know the repair procedure.

Thanks for the input.
 

[Nathaniel Peterson]

8 hours ago, FixOneMore said:

I found some time to do a few loads, super, extra large and a auto sense and I do not find any leaks from the new tub seal. I think the fill issue and any potential for the new tub seal to leak has been taken care of. Thanks again.

Although I did chase a ticking noise for those tests only to find that when I reinstalled the tub I had pushed the over flow tube back on a little too hard and the flood gasket pushed into the tub a little. Enough that on certain loads that did not balance enough the seam of the inner drum would hit on the gasket making the ticking noise.

More importantly I think the droning noise at certain RPM on spin down that I mentioned before is coming from the bottom motor bearing. I took the belt off and ran a drain and spin and it did sound suspect at spin down, not the same noise but at the same time. I took the motor out and the bearing did seam dry. It was a pain to get some grease into it as it is a shielding bearing, but it did take some and sounded a little better on the bench. I was using drill with a rubber pad to spin the motor so I could listen to it at some speed and to see the time it took to spin down from before and after I greased it. 

I ran another drain and spin with and without the belt on, nothing in the drum. Without the belt it kind of sounded worse as though now that there was grease in it any pieces inside did not have any space to be out of the way. I put the belt on and it did sound better that without and perhaps a bit better than before I greased it. I will have to see how it sounds when there is a wet load of clothes in it. 

My question is does anyone know of a good way to disassemble the motor to replace the bearings, at least the bottom one? In order to get it apart and back together I do not see a way that it can be done without taking the inverter board off. I do not know how fragile the plastic part of the sensor that is attached to the splined top of the armature shaft is and if it could be taken off and put back on without damaging it. How difficult is it to press off and back on the belt pulley? Any thoughts as to the procedure or how-to links you may know of to taking these motors apart for service is appreciated. Yes, I realize they are not meant to be repaired but that does not mean they can't. It is not a question of could it be done but should it be done. Now that it has some grease in it perhaps it is good enough but it would be interesting to know the repair procedure.

Thanks for the input.
 

It's cheaper for a customer to replace the motor. We don't replace bearings on motors at I've never heard of it. It's supposed to make a noise if you open the lid that's the brake.