Whirlpool WDT730PAHB- Diag Mode & Tech Data Sheet

[buckyswider]

Hi there, my 2 year old Whirlpool WDT730PAHB is not cleaning well.  Filters are clear; seems to be getting water, because I can hear it sloshing (and if it didn't get enough water, the float switch would never activate, correct?).  And I guess the circulator pump is working; else I wouldn't hear the sloshing.  Anyhow, I was looking for the Tech Data sheet online (there wasn't one included; is it possibly inside the door like some washing machines?) so I could run diagnostics and interpret the output.  Any idea where I could find one of those?  

Thanks!  

[buckyswider]

dang, i forgot that the DIY forum is all-encompassing and not specific to a type of appliance.  Wish I could edit my original post to add "Dishwasher"!!!

[buckyswider]

I attempted all the online tricks I could find- pressed three buttons in sequence 3 times.  All the control lights lit up and I closed the door and the "run" LED was on, so I figured it was going to go through the diagnostics.  But the LED went off in 5 seconds or so and nothing happened.  I'm not sure what to try next.  All repair guys are 2+ weeks out.  

[Nathaniel Peterson]

On 8/5/2023 at 9:56 AM, buckyswider said:

I attempted all the online tricks I could find- pressed three buttons in sequence 3 times.  All the control lights lit up and I closed the door and the "run" LED was on, so I figured it was going to go through the diagnostics.  But the LED went off in 5 seconds or so and nothing happened.  I'm not sure what to try next.  All repair guys are 2+ weeks out.  

Did any errors show up at all?

[Nathaniel Peterson]

10 minutes ago, Nathaniel Peterson said:

Did any errors show up at all?

Do the sequence and record what the display says. It should start either flashing a code or the clean/ finish/ sanitize light should illuminate stating no recorded error codes.

[buckyswider]

7 minutes ago, Nathaniel Peterson said:

Do the sequence and record what the display says. It should start either flashing a code or the clean/ finish/ sanitize light should illuminate stating no recorded error codes.

Thanks!  I *think* I may have seen a code after I opened it quickly after the LED went out.  The other times I waited some time to make sure nothing else was going to happen.  I guess I should either pull it out from under the counter so I can see the display at all times or else open it as *soon* as the light goes out?  I just started the machine to hopefully clean a full load, so I'll try something once that's done...

[Nathaniel Peterson]

3 minutes ago, buckyswider said:

Thanks!  I *think* I may have seen a code after I opened it quickly after the LED went out.  The other times I waited some time to make sure nothing else was going to happen.  I guess I should either pull it out from under the counter so I can see the display at all times or else open it as *soon* as the light goes out?  I just started the machine to hopefully clean a full load, so I'll try something once that's done...

Make sure you have the door closed lights off before doing the diagnostics sequence so it instantly shows error codes if any. If you get f9 e1 you may have a clogged rif filter which won't allow powerful wash pressure. You'd have to turn off power and remove stuff to get to it. Make sure if you take anything apart to put it back together so it doesn't cost you extra money if you need a technician to come out. We look at 100's of different style machines and it's easier to put back together if we're the one talking it apart. Unless you can get a Whirlpool only technician to come out that on works on Whirlpool made products. Some won't even work on a machine if they know the homeowner took it apart.fyi. good luck

[buckyswider]

Thanks again.  I started diags again using 3-3-3...after I shut the door I waited for the light to go out and opened the door immediately.  The display was F4-E3-F4-E3.  And the light above "Start" was lit, so I pressed it and closed the door.  Nothing.  Then, to my surprise, 2 or 3 minutes later it started doing stuff- no front LED present.  I waited for it to stop, then waited 2 more minutes and opened the door.  "Options",  "Start", and another LED were illuminated...panel not responding.  I closed it, thinking I would have to power cycle.  A few minutes later, it started playing a song.  Opened the door...no lights, no codes.

Just started the diag cycle again...this time I'll wait for the song to open to see if there's anything.  I sure miss that data sheet.  Seems like there's some differences with this diag cycle than others.  Should I pop open the door to see if it's tucked inside??  

[buckyswider]

OK, faked my way into diag mode again...waited for it to sing its song this time before opening..."F-E-".  Google says "no error".  However, I'm right now eating dinner (kielbasa!) off of a plate from the last wash cycle and it definitely isn't "clean"- there's a hazy cloud in the center.

I googled the F3-E3 and it said comm problem between control board and circ motor.  

I think the first wash cycle I noticed this on about a week ago had a brief power drop while running.  I chalked the dirt dishes up to that and re-ran without much improvement.  Maybe I should do a power off/wait/power on reset?  Maybe I should've done that first??  

[Nathaniel Peterson]

8 hours ago, buckyswider said:

OK, faked my way into diag mode again...waited for it to sing its song this time before opening..."F-E-".  Google says "no error".  However, I'm right now eating dinner (kielbasa!) off of a plate from the last wash cycle and it definitely isn't "clean"- there's a hazy cloud in the center.

I googled the F3-E3 and it said comm problem between control board and circ motor.  

I think the first wash cycle I noticed this on about a week ago had a brief power drop while running.  I chalked the dirt dishes up to that and re-ran without much improvement.  Maybe I should do a power off/wait/power on reset?  Maybe I should've done that first??  

F4e3 is wash motor not running. Check wiring to was motor. May have to check RIF filter that's connected to wash/ drain motor if this model has one. Check voltage at p5-1 & p5-2 at control board (120 volts ac). Not sure where tech sheet if any is located on these just started as a Whirlpool tech last week. Usually worked on other brands. If getting voltage and no sound from motor when it's supposed to be on during cycle you'll need to check the filter in the drain pump and or circulation pump one of them has one in the underneath machine housing called a rif filter. Could possibly be spray arms clogged but not sure how to take Whirlpool spray arms apart. That's all I know on Whirlpool dws.

[buckyswider]

Thanks again Nathaniel!  I think that may have  been a false flag- maybe something that happened during that power outage while running.  Wash motor runs  strong, as I can hear during the diag runs (when I had the patients to let it actually run!) and during my subsequent full runs.  I will reset (power off; wait 10 minutes; power on) prior to the next run and see what happens.  I *think* I may have found a tech sheet for this:  https://www.whirlpool.com/content/dam/global/documents/201509/tech-sheet-W10751166-RevC.pdf

That "Service Diagnostics Cycle" grid sure looks interesting.  I wish I could interpret it!  

[buckyswider]

I think I finally figured out the diag run.  Well, mostly anyway!  The key is (as 

On 8/6/2023 at 4:35 PM, Nathaniel Peterson said:

Make sure you have the door closed lights off before doing the diagnostics sequence so it instantly shows error codes if any. If you get f9 e1 you may have a clogged rif filter which won't allow powerful wash pressure. You'd have to turn off power and remove stuff to get to it. Make sure if you take anything apart to put it back together so it doesn't cost you extra money if you need a technician to come out. We look at 100's of different style machines and it's easier to put back together if we're the one talking it apart. Unless you can get a Whirlpool only technician to come out that on works on Whirlpool made products. Some won't even work on a machine if they know the homeowner took it apart.fyi. good luck

Yeah, this is key!  I finally decided to unscrew the brackets and pull the machine out so I could see the display.  And figured out that page 6 of the Tech Sheet shows what's happening up front.  My "most recent" error code remains F4-E3 "Wash Motor/Motor Not Running".  No other error codes stored.  And that was after I powered down for a couple hours and re-ran diags.  So it must be "fresh".  Now I just have to figure out what it's telling me.  The wash motor is definitely working as I can hear it during both diag and customer cycles.  I guess it's just not running consistently as I'm still finding chunks of food on the dishes.  Tech sheet says either loose connection on the wash motor, bad wash motor, or back control board. With wonkiness like this (works somewhat but not fully) I guess I'm leaning control board.  The wash motor would be a go/no go type thing, wouldn't it?  That it works at times indicates that it's good- or am I totally off base here?

 

Thanks again! 

[Budget Appliance Repair]

26 minutes ago, buckyswider said:

With wonkiness like this (works somewhat but not fully) I guess I'm leaning control board.  The wash motor would be a go/no go type thing,

You would be wrong in thinking this - the board is a somewhat rare failure opposed to these wash motors failing - being intermittent is one of the ways they fail.

Have you checked and tightened the small connectors that connect at the motor and the control board for the motor wires - This loose connector problem is usually found on the motor connector, (use a small needle to bend both top and bottom connector contacts to the center of the connector so they get a better connection with the motor connection).

[buckyswider]

4 hours ago, Budget Appliance Repair said:

You would be wrong in thinking this - the board is a somewhat rare failure opposed to these wash motors failing - being intermittent is one of the ways they fail.

Have you checked and tightened the small connectors that connect at the motor and the control board for the motor wires - This loose connector problem is usually found on the motor connector, (use a small needle to bend both top and bottom connector contacts to the center of the connector so they get a better connection with the motor connection).

Great info, thanks Willie!  Given this info- and that the motor is much much cheaper than anticipated (60 bucks!)- I went ahead and ordered the motor.   I replaced one of these before in my prior Kenmore, and working on it in my kitchen is a major pain (the d/w is in an island and it pulls out into almost a galley) so I'll just pop it out once, replace the motor, and make sure these connector pins are pinched closer.  If that works, I'll take the potential of the $60 L knowing I don't have to pull this thing out twice and work in the confined space!  (Although it does seem like I could pull the connector with it simply leaned over and not flipped....hmmmmm....maybe I'll try that prior to the part arriving)....

 

thanks again!  

[RobinWinter]

Whirlpool and it's many brands is infamous for failed wash motors, I do the sump and motor assembly so often I've done it in 15 minutes.  Usually it's almost as cheap to get the sump and motor assembly rather than just the wash motor, it's easier to replace and you get some other new parts and peace of mind that there isn't some debris lurking in there waiting to destroy the new motor

[buckyswider]

Huh, yeah, I guess I should have looked at that.  Although I think I *did* get the motor outrageously inexpensively- I see it at 4x the cost on other sites.  Weird.  And with a brief search I can't see any with the complete assembly for my particular model.  Oh well, had I not ordered already I'd keep looking.  I do remember what a pain those hose clamps were when I replaced the motor on the Kenmore.  Thanks for the reply!  

[Budget Appliance Repair]

Outrageously cheap for one of these Whirlpool dishwasher motors??

I bet you ordered from Amazon and are getting an aftermarket part  - not sure how good of an idea that is on one of these if that's the case.

EDITED TO ADD:  I looked this up to see if it showed the complete wash pump/sump assembly and it does but the number didn't show up most places or convert to a new number, (the original site I found it on showed the number and not available).

Marcone showed the original part# W11665769 subs to part# W11665769 shows suggested retail of $159.86 which is pretty reasonable, (wholesale cost is really reasonable).

APP has it in stock also at $151.19
Part number: W11665769

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/ShowPartImage.aspx?forumimg=W11665769

Hopefully if you got just the motor from Amazon you got one that was listed as OEM and it actually is - pretty reasonable prices if they really are OEM, ($85 for the ones listed as OEM).  Suggested retail on this wash pump motor only is right around $75.00 at Marcone and Reliable, (super cheap wholesale OEM).

APP is OEM and they are only $59.19 for motor only, (seems to be about the average price for OEM and available many places).
Part number: W11612327

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/ShowPartImage.aspx?forumimg=W11612327

 

 

Edited August 10, 2023 by Budget Appliance Repair

[buckyswider]

That APP part is the exact OEM part and place I ordered!  Another reputable appliance parts site inexplicable has it for ~$240. But now I see that's the anomaly, that everyone has around the same cost that I paid for the OEM.

All THAT being said, the thing totally died last night.  So I drove around this morning to see if anyone had it locally.  Second stop- Marcone!  And they had them in stock- both the complete sump assembly and the standalone motor.  So I opted for the entire assembly.  Not sure if I'll eventually return the one from APP or maybe I'll mate it to the old sump and keep around as a replacement!  

Coincidentally, My OneDrive "On this day..." feature just showed me a photo from exactly two years ago when the control board on my prior Kenmore (Whirlpool OEM, 8 years old) burned up, which prompted this purchase.  Man dishwashers are gonna be the death of me!!!

Thanks for all the help guys!  Hopefully this sump install goes smoothly- if not I'll be updating the thread asking for more help!!

[buckyswider]

I cannot seem to get this sump seated properly- at least with the limit of 2 hands I have right now.  I can not get enough clearance on the bottom tab (with the d/w sitting on its left side (facing it)) to rotate it shut.  And yes, the replacement is the exact same one as the original.  I can get it within like a 1/4 or 1/8 inch but no luck.  And there's nothing on that side to pull down on- I attempted to pull on the diverter, but that started flexing so I killed that plan.  Gonna look through to 'net to see if I can find any more videos.  Would it make sense to hit it with a mallet?  

[buckyswider]

OK, I pieced that technique together from a few different videos.   First, I had to slide the d/w partly back under the counter to give me more freedom with not having to prevent it from tipping over.  Then, one tab at a time, I reached inside with one hand providing copious downward pressure above where the tab is, and reaching under with the other hand and working the tab partially into place.  then i switched sided and did the other two the same way sequentially.  Lastly I pulled it back out again and put it on its side and move all three tabs to their fully locked positions.  (A pending repair of full tearst to both my rotator cuff and biceps tendon probably made this part harder and more painful than it should be!).

Now on to putting everything back together.  The only part I think I'll have trouble with is the wash tower.  The one has square head screws in the back and top, not clips.  The first video I watched had a complete removal of the wash tower- but others with a sump much closer to mine just had that detached from the sump, which would've made everything simpler.  Oh well.  I'll get it somehow.  (Yeah, I know it's not difficult getting screws in, but getting my body in far enough to find the hole for the top one doesn't seem simple!)

[buckyswider]

SUCCESS!  Thanks all!  Got everything back together.  Ran a diag run with no leaks and no errors!  Running a normal cycle with dirty dishes now!  

That part I was stressing about- getting the top screw in- went easier than I expected.  I straddled the open door, crouched, and was able to get my head and hands in there to align the top of the wash tower and drive the screw home.  Had I thought of it, wearing my LED headlamp would've made this a lot easier as I would've been able to see the attachment point much easier. 

Have any of you professionals thought of fabricating a little stool like apparatus that would span the door and allow you to sit while working on the innards?  Or is removing and replacing the door so simple for you guys that you just do that when necessary?  

Thanks all.  I couldn't have done it without you guys!  

[buckyswider]

Sigh, little bit of a leak somewhere during this wash cycle.  Toward the front.  Hopefully not the sump.  Now just gotta figure out how to tell where it's coming from....

[Nathaniel Peterson]

1 hour ago, buckyswider said:

Sigh, little bit of a leak somewhere during this wash cycle.  Toward the front.  Hopefully not the sump.  Now just gotta figure out how to tell where it's coming from....

Check the door gasket. Make sure it's level with front of cabinet and door not hitting side of cabinet.

[buckyswider]

Thanks Nathaniel.  Gasket is good.  I put a paper towel underneath for the end of the run and the best I can tell it's originating near the drain pump/hose connection.  Not sure if from there or above at the sump.  I can't feel any wet spots anywhere on the d/w.  Guess I'll just have to camp out on the floor for three hours during the next run.  

[buckyswider]

I did make sure the flange in the tub was clean and coated the new sump gasket with liquid soap.  Is it even conceivable that a new sump housing with all three locking tabs in place can leak?  Seems like a LOT of compression involved in the operation.  That being said, I double checked the drain hose on the drain pump- it was completely installed up to the flange on the pump.  I did move the clamp a bit closer to the pump housing- not that I think that could've done anything.  Seems like a really tough thing to troubleshoot.