GE dishwasher GDT695SSJ0SS won't start or perform diagnostics

[merrittjr]

Dishwasher just started beeping 3 times and not starting. I've cut the power and nothing changed. I was able to enter diagnostic mode, but I am not able to start any of the diag steps. Pressing Start does nothing. FWIW, when entering diag mode and all LED's are blinking, closing the door doesn't make the lights go steady. The blinking is continuous no matter if it's open or closed. It seems as if it doesn't recognize the door is closed. Also, the display shows 860, if that helps. To also add info, I replaced the interface control board about 7 months ago.

[Nathaniel Peterson]

On 8/5/2023 at 11:29 AM, merrittjr said:

Dishwasher just started beeping 3 times and not starting. I've cut the power and nothing changed. I was able to enter diagnostic mode, but I am not able to start any of the diag steps. Pressing Start does nothing. FWIW, when entering diag mode and all LED's are blinking, closing the door doesn't make the lights go steady. The blinking is continuous no matter if it's open or closed. It seems as if it doesn't recognize the door is closed. Also, the display shows 860, if that helps. To also add info, I replaced the interface control board about 7 months ago.

Hold start and heated dry at the same time and report back.

[merrittjr]

21 hours ago, Nathaniel Peterson said:

Hold start and heated dry at the same time and report back.

It beeps once and then nothing happens or changes.

[Nathaniel Peterson]

4 hours ago, merrittjr said:

It beeps once and then nothing happens or changes.

According to the many manual three beeps means it's in demo mode and that is how you take it out of demo mode. Should be working now if not you have another issue. You put it in diagnostics in all the lights start blinking then you have to wait for the lights to stop blinking then hold the select cycle button down to get it into diagnostic mode to test components. Start starts the test select cycle advances to the next test then press start to start that test e.t.c. The door status light will blink confirming which test you're on one blink for one test to for the second test three for the third test e.t.c. If after you press start when trying to perform one of the tests and the door status light blinks when the door is closed you have 3 seconds to close the door this means you may have a door latch issue. Then you're going to want to check the wiring that goes to the door lock and if it all looks good you may need a door lock. Without being there it's hard to be for sure but it is a cheap part.

[merrittjr]

I ordered a new door latch. I'll report back once I install it. Thanks.

[merrittjr]

The new door latch did nothing. Everything is still acting as it did before. Here's what it's doing. I should add, when in diagnostic mode, it allows me to select the tests but not to start them. Any other ideas? I'm at a loss here. 

[Nathaniel Peterson]

10 hours ago, merrittjr said:

The new door latch did nothing. Everything is still acting as it did before. Here's what it's doing. I should add, when in diagnostic mode, it allows me to select the tests but not to start them. Any other ideas? I'm at a loss here. 

It still detecting the door is open. Check the wiring for continuity on the beep settings on a multimeter/ voltmeter. It's the wiring going from the door latch to the main board. Go from one end of each wire to other same wire and make sure it beeps for continuity on your meter. If they all beep then put it on the ohms/ horseshoe symbol on meter then do the same with each wire and write down what number it measures at. The wires have to be disconnected at least from one side to give you a reliable reading or it'll measure resistance at whatever it's hooked up to. Make sure at least one side is unhooked for both tests.

[merrittjr]

Continuity tested good. Ohms measured 0.

[merrittjr]

Any thoughts?

[Nathaniel Peterson]

2 minutes ago, merrittjr said:

Any thoughts?

Sounds like you need a u.i. and main board. Before you order them try unplugging one at a time each component that that harness hooks up to to see if your symptom changes if it does you'll need to test the component it hooked up to against your mini manual. Keep in mind the plus or minus percentage if it lists that. If any of those components change the symptom order that component plus the u.i. and main board. On this style G.E. dishwasher when either of those boards fail you have to replace both because of compatibility issues due to them changing parts numbers all the time and problem coming back a day to weeks later. If one of the components checks bad put that part in first before the boards so you can send them back if there's a return policy. If not you'll have to get the failed part first and try then the boards. The door was closed in your video when pressing start correct. If so then proceed with what I stated. 

[merrittjr]

On 8/19/2023 at 7:37 PM, Nathaniel Peterson said:

...if it does you'll need to test the component it hooked up to against your mini manual. Keep in mind the plus or minus percentage if it lists that.

I'm not understanding this part.

[Nathaniel Peterson]

5 hours ago, merrittjr said:

I'm not understanding this part.

Just unplug each connector that's in the same wiring harness and and see if it changes the state of operation. There's specification on what each component it hooks up to on the mini manual. Like the turbidity sensor at the front right of the sump that has 4 wires coming out of it. Put a voltmeter on the middle two pins of this sensor making sure not to touch the leads together. It should be certain resistance at say 72 degrees compared to the chart on the mini-manual. Everything that hooks up to that door harness that's hooked up to that door lock should have a certain value compared to the mini manual if not you should get a reading at least. The horseshoe emblem on your meter.

[merrittjr]

What are the odds replacing the UI and main board do the trick? I honestly have no idea what I'm doing testing the other components. I have no idea what the parts are, let alone how to test them.

[Nathaniel Peterson]

33 minutes ago, merrittjr said:

What are the odds replacing the UI and main board do the trick? I honestly have no idea what I'm doing testing the other components. I have no idea what the parts are, let alone how to test them.

Let's try this turn off the breaker to the dishwasher. Remove the two quarter inch screws for the kick plate remove. Remove the 5/16 screw off of the power box. Remove the two quarter inch screws on the right side of the power box hooked up to the right side leg and get out of the way. Then remove the two quarter inch copper looking screws right above the frame of that power box and drop the control board. Then make sure the power is not touching anything and turn on the breaker. Take a video of the green light at the control board is supposed to be flashing and compare it to your tech sheet you have with the dishwasher. That is the blinks it's talking about on the mini-manual/tech sheet.

[merrittjr]

I see no green light anywhere. Then after messing with the control board, I now have no power to the dishwasher. I'm getting power up to the power terminal connector though. This is beyond frustrating.

[Nathaniel Peterson]

7 hours ago, merrittjr said:

I see no green light anywhere. Then after messing with the control board, I now have no power to the dishwasher. I'm getting power up to the power terminal connector though. This is beyond frustrating.

If you had the board plugged in and no green light then you need the board then. You should at the very least have a flashing green light that proves the board is recognizing power. Assuming you had power back on. I'm assuming the 3 wire terminal is getting power. If so and no blinking light then replace the two boards. We now know for sure that's an issue. Unless there's something wrong with your incoming power which should be white to black 110-120 a/c volts. 

[merrittjr]

Replacing the control board did the trick. I had just replaced the UI board about 7 months ago, so I gambled and only did the control board. Works perfectly now. Thanks for your help!

[Nathaniel Peterson]

10 hours ago, merrittjr said:

Replacing the control board did the trick. I had just replaced the UI board about 7 months ago, so I gambled and only did the control board. Works perfectly now. Thanks for your help!

Np! Not trying to throw shade but G.E. changes boards numbers almost every month it seems. You got very lucky they were compatible. You should play the lottery lol. Good job!