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GE PVM2170SR1SS over the range microwave not functioning


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Posted

Hey!

Thanks in advance for any help!

My GE PVM2170SR1SS microwave was functioning fine, then it started to make a humming sound.

We testing it by trying to heat some water in a bowl and it would start up, spin the tray, fan run, but it would not heat the water.  That sound of the usual extra power draw a second or two after starting the timer never happened.

Started trying the most common things on the parts repair sites but so far I haven’t had any luck.  I’ll try and remember everything and the order.

  • First site said the diode and magnetron were the most common issues.  Tried the diode, didn’t fix it.  Tried the new diode and a new magnetron, didn’t fix it.  Went back to the original parts, returned the new parts.
  • Next thing I found listed as common was the door switches.  Tested them, one of the three was a little funky/intermittent.  Replaced all three just in case, didn’t fix it.
  • At this point, I accidentally found the little troubleshooting paper hidden in the microwave.  Following the troubleshooting flowchart, the next step was a new PCB.  Replaced that, still doesn’t work, still installed for now.
  • Tried another magnetron, thinking maybe the old PCB was telling it to turn on but it wasn’t working, but no luck, sent that back.
  • Next step on the list was the main power transformer.  Swapped that out, no luck.
  • Tried a new diode again, with a new capacitor this time, still nothing, those are still installed for now.

At this point, it’s worse than when I started lol.  When I started, everything worked, it just didn’t heat up.  Now the timer starts and the lights turn on, but the tray doesn’t spin, and the fan for the magnetron doesn’t run.

Maybe the PCB I got was defective?  The only testing step on the chart for the PCB was for mains voltage at one point on the board, which it has.

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Top Posters In This Topic

  • True

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  • Nathaniel Peterson

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  • ServiceTech_Daniel

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Posted

What does your voltage at the wall say ? grab a receptacle tester and plug it in . 

https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2QLCUKVM6DM09&keywords=receptacle%2Btester&qid=1692191648&sprefix=receptical%2Caps%2C3015&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

a open ground, open neutral , or any other problem it can affect the microwave . 

 

Posted
11 hours ago, ServiceTech_Daniel said:

What does your voltage at the wall say ? grab a receptacle tester and plug it in . 

https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2QLCUKVM6DM09&keywords=receptacle%2Btester&qid=1692191648&sprefix=receptical%2Caps%2C3015&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

a open ground, open neutral , or any other problem it can affect the microwave . 

 

 

Both the original location, and my island where I’m testing, pass a receptacle tester.

BTW, love your favorite brew ha ha.

Posted
4 hours ago, True said:

Bump 😬

Check the filter board especially if your model has the two 20 amp fuses for incoming 120 and outgoing 120 should be two sets of black and white wires separated at each end of the filter board. Post pictures of that and of the side angle,board, and microswitches. Don't touch any of the high voltage components though. Make sure you have continuity on your thermostats.

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