Jump to content
Click here to check out this guide

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Contact


DISCLOSURE: We may earn a commission when you use one of our coupons/links to make a purchase.
  • Upcoming Events

    • 15 February 2025 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
      1  
      Returning guest presenter Aaron Wilson is back for another exciting discussion. This time, we'll be talking about...
      The Science of CYA: How to Keep the Customer Safe, Document Your Work, and Not Get Sued
      We take on a lot of liability as appliance repair techs, and that can get us into sticky situations whether we've done anything wrong or not. Aaron will be teaching us all about how to navigate this side of the trade.
      We'll start by going over a tragic, real-world case study where a sloppy installation had lethal results, analyzing exactly how the installer's negligence caused this. From there, our scope will expand to what kind of safety precautions we should implement in our own work, both for the customer's sake and for our own.
      But even if you do everything perfectly, there's still the famous "technician witch hunt." Well, we'll also talk about how to deal with that by thoroughly documenting your work and putting yourself beyond legal reproach.
      A little about our guest, Aaron Wilson:
      Aaron has been in the appliance repair trade for about 15 years, starting out by doing installations before moving on to bigger and better things. He worked for C&W Services as a Sub-Zero authorized servicer for a time and thereafter joined Mr. Appliance of Highland Park in the Dallas area, where he worked for years as the lead technician and field service manager. These days, he's making sure that all the appliances of everyone's favorite fried chicken place are in tip-top shape as the Quality and Performance Consultant for the southwest branch of Chick-fil-A. In addition, he has taught many classes on refrigeration repair and advanced diagnostics, during which time he also developed training material for the soft skills side of things, which he is delighted to share with you. On top of all that he's a certified graduate of the Master Samurai Tech Academy, so he knows his stuff!
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is available to everybody, including you! You don't have to be a member of Appliantology to join the fun.
      When: Saturday, February 15 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to register. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it. 

GE PVM2170SR1SS over the range microwave not functioning


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey!

Thanks in advance for any help!

My GE PVM2170SR1SS microwave was functioning fine, then it started to make a humming sound.

We testing it by trying to heat some water in a bowl and it would start up, spin the tray, fan run, but it would not heat the water.  That sound of the usual extra power draw a second or two after starting the timer never happened.

Started trying the most common things on the parts repair sites but so far I haven’t had any luck.  I’ll try and remember everything and the order.

  • First site said the diode and magnetron were the most common issues.  Tried the diode, didn’t fix it.  Tried the new diode and a new magnetron, didn’t fix it.  Went back to the original parts, returned the new parts.
  • Next thing I found listed as common was the door switches.  Tested them, one of the three was a little funky/intermittent.  Replaced all three just in case, didn’t fix it.
  • At this point, I accidentally found the little troubleshooting paper hidden in the microwave.  Following the troubleshooting flowchart, the next step was a new PCB.  Replaced that, still doesn’t work, still installed for now.
  • Tried another magnetron, thinking maybe the old PCB was telling it to turn on but it wasn’t working, but no luck, sent that back.
  • Next step on the list was the main power transformer.  Swapped that out, no luck.
  • Tried a new diode again, with a new capacitor this time, still nothing, those are still installed for now.

At this point, it’s worse than when I started lol.  When I started, everything worked, it just didn’t heat up.  Now the timer starts and the lights turn on, but the tray doesn’t spin, and the fan for the magnetron doesn’t run.

Maybe the PCB I got was defective?  The only testing step on the chart for the PCB was for mains voltage at one point on the board, which it has.

  • Replies 4
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • True

    3

  • Nathaniel Peterson

    1

  • ServiceTech_Daniel

    1

Posted

What does your voltage at the wall say ? grab a receptacle tester and plug it in . 

https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2QLCUKVM6DM09&keywords=receptacle%2Btester&qid=1692191648&sprefix=receptical%2Caps%2C3015&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

a open ground, open neutral , or any other problem it can affect the microwave . 

 

Posted
11 hours ago, ServiceTech_Daniel said:

What does your voltage at the wall say ? grab a receptacle tester and plug it in . 

https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2QLCUKVM6DM09&keywords=receptacle%2Btester&qid=1692191648&sprefix=receptical%2Caps%2C3015&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

a open ground, open neutral , or any other problem it can affect the microwave . 

 

 

Both the original location, and my island where I’m testing, pass a receptacle tester.

BTW, love your favorite brew ha ha.

Posted
4 hours ago, True said:

Bump 😬

Check the filter board especially if your model has the two 20 amp fuses for incoming 120 and outgoing 120 should be two sets of black and white wires separated at each end of the filter board. Post pictures of that and of the side angle,board, and microswitches. Don't touch any of the high voltage components though. Make sure you have continuity on your thermostats.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...