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  • Upcoming Events

    • 15 February 2025 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
      1  
      Returning guest presenter Aaron Wilson is back for another exciting discussion. This time, we'll be talking about...
      The Science of CYA: How to Keep the Customer Safe, Document Your Work, and Not Get Sued
      We take on a lot of liability as appliance repair techs, and that can get us into sticky situations whether we've done anything wrong or not. Aaron will be teaching us all about how to navigate this side of the trade.
      We'll start by going over a tragic, real-world case study where a sloppy installation had lethal results, analyzing exactly how the installer's negligence caused this. From there, our scope will expand to what kind of safety precautions we should implement in our own work, both for the customer's sake and for our own.
      But even if you do everything perfectly, there's still the famous "technician witch hunt." Well, we'll also talk about how to deal with that by thoroughly documenting your work and putting yourself beyond legal reproach.
      A little about our guest, Aaron Wilson:
      Aaron has been in the appliance repair trade for about 15 years, starting out by doing installations before moving on to bigger and better things. He worked for C&W Services as a Sub-Zero authorized servicer for a time and thereafter joined Mr. Appliance of Highland Park in the Dallas area, where he worked for years as the lead technician and field service manager. These days, he's making sure that all the appliances of everyone's favorite fried chicken place are in tip-top shape as the Quality and Performance Consultant for the southwest branch of Chick-fil-A. In addition, he has taught many classes on refrigeration repair and advanced diagnostics, during which time he also developed training material for the soft skills side of things, which he is delighted to share with you. On top of all that he's a certified graduate of the Master Samurai Tech Academy, so he knows his stuff!
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is available to everybody, including you! You don't have to be a member of Appliantology to join the fun.
      When: Saturday, February 15 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to register. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it. 

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Posted

Hi All,

Background

I had to replace the connector in the attached image, because it was fried due to some water pressure that came out of one of the water hoses.

I replaced the connectors with  some spare faston type connectors at home, so I temporary used them to connect the four wires, and  tested the dishwasher for three days, everything worked perfectly.

In the meantime, I received new faston type connectors from Amazon, I soldered them and insulated them properly.

I set the dishwasher up again and turned it on, but much to my surprise, after 18 seconds, I got the F24 error.

I removed the relay, saw that the contacts were dirty, cleaned them perfectly, but to no avail, F24 is still there.

So I removed the relay again, measured it with a tester, following this procedure, and the relay works perfectly.

I also accessed the panel in 'service mode' and reset the error, but it didn't help.

I did all the component tests, and they all worked as described in the documentation.

  1. The relay contacts are perfect, just like the relay itself. It's extremely clean inside; I opened it up all the way to the last blade, and it looks brand new.

  2. On the connector side, it's the same story – everything is okay.

  3. I removed Plug ST5 from the heater relay and measured the resistance from connector 12 to 22: 284.5 kΩ.

  4. Now, in the English manual, I read 10MΩ, so the 284.5kΩ I found would be significantly lower. Do you know what the correct unit of measure should be?

I removed the pressure switch and performed all the necessary measurements:

11 - 12 = 000.6

With pressure activated = OL

11 - 14 = OL

With pressure activated = 000.15

21 - 22 = 000.1

With pressure activated = 2

21 - 24 = 1.862

With pressure activated = 000.1

It seems unbelievable to me that after I replaced the 8 connectors, I got the F24 error, given that until 30 minutes earlier, everything was working fine.
It would be a hell of a coincidence.
 
The heater relay looks like new inside.
The heater pressure switch seems to work as expected.
 
But I know F24 is either the relay or the pressure switch... unless you have a better explanation.
 
Any help is appreciated.
 
Thank you
Alex
 
 
 

IMG_20230912_201703.jpg

IMG_20230903_092402.jpg

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