FRIGIDAIRE FftR1835VS 0 not cooling - diagnosis

[maslux]

 

Frigidaire Refrigerator FFTR1835VS 0

 

Freezer on top. Has option for, but no icemaker. 

 

The above refrigerator gets power and all fans are working, but has stopped cooling.

 

Tries to start compressor several times per hour, but fails. The start relay tries for 4-8 seconds, then you hear the overload "click" and it quits the attempt.

 

All the videos I can find place blame on the start relay or the capacitor.

 

- The start relay and overload are assembled as one part. 

- This fridge has a separate barrel capacitor with 2 pigtail leads, not the plug-in type piggybacked onto the start relay & overload combined part you usually see in the videos. 

 

- I have replaced the start relay/overload combo 3x.

 

- I have replaced the 12uf capacitor 1x and the replacement came with a loose top which spins so I don't 100% trust that it is new.

 

Original capacitor: 

 

-Capacitance test reads 12.28 uf every time I test it, including when leads are swapped.

 

-Resistance test shows increasing numbers even when I switch leads. If I leave the tester leads on until it hits the top of the tester scale (1-100 scale) it reports OL. If I remove leads before it reaches top of 1-100 scale it does not report OL. 

 

I mention this because one of the videos said you should see the numbers gradually dropping when you reverse the leads on the resistance test. If it matters I can see he was using a cheaper manual range multimeter than the digital auto-range one I am using.

 

Replacement capacitor: 

-Capacitance test reads 11.89 every time I test it, including when leads are swapped.

-Resistance test shows increasing numbers from even when I switch leads. If I leave the tester leads on until it hits the top of the tester scale (1-100 scale) it reports OL. If I remove leads before it reaches top of 1-100 scale it does not report OL.

 

Compressor:

-to my novice eyes, the compressor seems to be sound ELECTRICALLY.

-It has the single pole on top, 2 pole on bottom layout, forming a triangle.

- I believe the triangle layout is as follows:

 

• (C) Common at top

• (S) Start at lower left

• (R) Run at lower right

 

- C <-> R path = 4.9

- C <-> S path = 6.0

- S <-> R path = 10.8

 

No shorts were discovered testing to brass, body of compressor or welded bracket. This leads me to believe my earlier statement that compressor is ELECTRICALLY sound.

 

At this point, should I order a known NEW Capacitor and try to swap that again?

 

Should I assume compressor is MECHANICALLY unsound and give up on repair?

 

Should I test compressor with vacuum gauge (not sure of terminology here)?

 

Is there something else I should be checking?

 

In conclusion, I have put just under $200 in parts into diagnosing a $750 fridge. If it is likely a ~$300 replacement compressor is needed, I would rather buy a new fridge. If it is likely that the original capacitor and the likely used replacement capacitor are the culprit, I would rather spend -$25 for a known new capacitor.

 

Thank you in advance for any insight and advice.

[maslux]

[Vance R]

51 minutes ago, maslux said:

Should I assume compressor is MECHANICALLY unsound and give up on repair?

After 3 start devices the odds are that the compressor is locked up internally.  BTW did you try to measure starting amperage?

[maslux]

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you for your reply and insight. I apologize for the delay in responding. I agree that a mechanical failure of the compressor itself is likely the issue. Videos I saw described the symptom I was having as indicative of a failed Start Relay or Capacitor, so I was holding out hope that a mechanically frozen Compressor would have manifested different symptoms. 

To answer your question regarding amperage, I did. I have a refrigerator-specific power surge protector and I filmed the Amp draw and watts as the start relay attempted to kick on the compressor. 

 

The amperage at rest stayed exactly at 0.054. At the moment of attempted compressor start,  it shot up to 19.15 and quickly progressed through the following Amperage readings (please see attached video):

0.054 (at rest)

19.15 (start)

19.50 (attempting to activate compressor)

9.153 ""

8.904 -> 8.80 (quickly dropping)

- stops attempt to activate compressor

0.054 (returns to resting amperage)

At the same time, I recorded Wattage