Jump to content
LIMITED TIME OFFER: Get up to $100 off tuition for Master Samurai Tech courses through November 30th ×
Click here to check out our structured, online appliance repair training courses for rookies and experienced techs.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Contact


DISCLOSURE: We may earn a commission when you use one of our coupons/links to make a purchase.
  • Upcoming Events

    • 07 December 2024 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
      1  
      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in the conversation for all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This event is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, December 7 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello. I have a Maytag MHWE500VW and it giving either a "Suds" or "F35" error and I believe I have tried everything and cannot figure it out???
What I have tried:

-Tried new pressure sensor switch

-Cleaned and inspected pump filter and hoses- no blockage or clogs
-Tried new pump motor even though the other turned on I figured why not?? But did not make a difference. Water tries to drain but water does not go past the top   of the pump drain hose inside the washer. Does not make it to the external drain hose so I thought maybe the motor?
-Took off back and inspected all hoses
-Inspected all wiring
-Checked with a multi meter on control board and seemed to give correct readings

At a loss???? If anyone can give me more suggestions, that would be great.

Thanks in advance

  • Replies 12
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • hallco

    7

  • Budget Appliance Repair

    2

  • RobinWinter

    1

  • Daniel.A

    1

Posted

If you put a new pump motor in it and the pump activates but doesn't drain, then you have a blockage, you'll have to do some disassembly to find it.  I always start by trying to pull water through the drain hose with a shop vac, if it doesn't remove water quickly, there's a blockage.  If you disassembled as far as the pump filter, it's going to most likely be in the tub to pump hose, or covering the orifice in the tub that hose connects to.

Posted

Thanks for the reply. I have completely cleaned out the pump filter and body. As far as the hose, do you mean the hose attached to the bottom of the tub that connects to the pump? With the ball in it? 

Posted (edited)

Based on what you're saying with regard to the water not making it up and out, the pressure switch isn't going to alter the pump's power. If the pump comes on, it's going full force. There's no variability to pump pressure based on pressure sensor readings.

But setting that aside, let's start with the basics. Since we're dealing with, in essence, a no-drain situation, we want to first verify 120 VAC at the pump itself. If it's getting 120 VAC, and it's turning on, but it's not draining or pushing water up and out, then we need to look for an obstruction. It sounds like you checked the drain tube, although it's unclear as to how you inspected - visually or physically? (When I say "physically," did you remove the hose and either try to blow through it or run water through it? Sometimes debris makes it up and out of sight.)

Assuming that checks out, I see you made no mention of checking the tube that guides water from the tub to the drain pump assembly. You might be able to access this by removing the rear panel (which would be much easier than removing the front panel).

In the image below, I have circled the tube to which I am referring. I would recommend that you remove that, and inspect for any debris blockage. I've had instances similar to what you have described (where water won't drain) and the issue turned out to be scrud and debris buildup to an obscene degree in that pump hose. It prevented the water from even making it to the drain pump, thus the drain pump was trying to push up water that remains in the hose leading out of the washer.

[EDIT]: Additionally, if you find nothing there, I have seen it on one occasion where a sock was stuck between the inner and the outer drum. Was not visible when I removed the drain tube from the bottom of the outer tub, but when water was flowing, it would return to position and block water from leaving the outer tub.]

Screenshot 2023-10-26 142703.png

Edited by Daniel.A
Posted

Hi. I checked that hose/tube and all is clear. Also I did a shop vac from the end of the drain hose and it sucked up without blockage. Here is a 1 minute video of what's going on. I did it on the drain&spin cycle but it does virtually the same thing on rinse&spin and other cycles. Thanks for the continued help. I really appreciate the troubleshooting advice.

Posted

Has anyone seen this type of problem? Do you think it is possible it is the control board? I believe I have tried everything except for that? 

Posted
On 10/30/2023 at 9:56 AM, hallco said:

Has anyone seen this type of problem? Do you think it is possible it is the control board? I believe I have tried everything except for that? 

So you took off that big hose that connects to the bottom of the outer tub like @Daniel.A suggested? We expect hear some complaining on how hard it was to put back on, at least that's what I do all the time before I condemn a drain pump. Plus I clean it out with hot water and a nylon brush. If you did all that and the pressure tube has no holes and the dome for the pressure tube is clear than that would be the only thing left. Did you make sure you have continuity through the wires on the beep setting from the pressure switch to board with one side unhooked? There's some things to try if not mentioned. 

Posted

Yes I have done the continuity test as well and all seems to be working. 

UPDATE: 

I let the washer sit for about a week and tried again. The same thing happened as usual with the suds error and then F35 a minute or so later. BUT when I wet vac'd the drain hose a bunch of suds came out with a bit of water!! I have taken off all the above mentioned hoses and what not and completely cleaned out the bottom pump filter and assembly. I can also blow through the pressure switch tube without blockage?? The fact that there are suds leads me to believe all systems are working as far as suds error and what not so how can I blow out the whole system to get rid of any suds? The washer won't cycle on its own. It starts and then goes from suds to F35 and stops??? Thanks for the ongoing help.

Posted

A dose of liquid fabric softener kills suds, or carpet cleaner anti-foam/defoamer solution.  Or maybe a bit of cooking oil.

Posted

I poured hot water down the drain hose and it was able to keep filling without any blockage. Now when I wet vac it seems to not have a lot of suds but when I run a cycle the same thing happens. It goes right to suds and then F35. Since I know there is no blockage from the drain to the tub because the hot water was able to go in continuously, could there be an issue from the other end? I have taken out and cleaned the detergent tray and nothing seems to be blocked as far as that goes?

Posted

The usually problem with a F35/Suds code when all suds are for sure cleared and the air dome is clean is a bad pressure sensor, (these have an electronic pressure transducer inside the pressure device that the air pressure hose connects to).

Posted

A new pressure switch was the first thing I tried but I wonder if the new one could have been bad??? Initially though, there were definitely an excess of suds so I assume the original did its job with the error so wouldn't we assume it is working? I believe I have cleared all the suds at this point but it still gives me the error??

Posted

F35 is usually the pressure switch - if that doesn't fix it than pretty much the only other thing is the main control board if all other parts of the water level pressure system has been checked.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...