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  • Upcoming Events

    • 07 December 2024 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
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      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in the conversation for all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This event is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, December 7 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

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Posted

Hi there,

I was given a non-running BFQ110 exhaust fan motor to diagnose. Supposedly, after a dust clean-up, the owner put it back and it didn't run.

I went first by looking for a possible datasheet on this model, wich is really a Hung Hsing 2A2561102, to no avail. It is a single-speed, 120VAC fan running at 1625RPM (nominal) and uses up 0.7A and has a running capacitor 3.5µF/250VAC (non-split).

I did a few basic tests:

Current measurement

First connected to a power-monitoring smart plug (just because I already had it, not because it's the most efficient tool for the case) to see if any current was flowing. I also checked the shaft could freely rotate and was not tightened like an old, dried-up fan motor.
Result: no current flow whatsoever, shaft feels "heavy" but can be rotated by hand. I don't have any point of comparison to know if it's normal or tight.

Coil resistance from terminals

Tested coil resistance across 120VAC terminals.
Result: infinite resistance (>20MΩ)

Coil resistance from inside

Opened the motor shell to look for anything out of the ordinary. I carefully removed the tie-wraps as well as insulating covers to test the coil directly. Multimeter gives around 6Ω, which isn't the true resistance as we're dealing with a motor, but at least tells us the coil isn't broken. Without a datasheet, I can't know the nominal values, though.
Result: thermal overload protector burned, a 1$ part-with-2-hours-install-time. Classic.

But burning a fuse (thermal or otherwise) is only a symptom, not a cause.

Powering the coil directly

So I shorted the open fuse, assembled back the motor, powered it…
Result: shaft doesn't rotate, yet power used is 50W.

When rotating the shaft by hand, it immediately started running and power used dropped to 45W. I can't tell if it's spinning at the nominal speed, though, as I don't have a strobe light. That would have told me whether shaft resistance was normal or not.

After a few minutes of running freely, though, the coil got very hot. Again, I had no clue if it was within normal parameters, but I was under the suspicion that a motor running without a load shouldn't get that hot.

Questions:

What prevent a motor from starting, but not running?
On a dead DC motor I was given once, I remember the shaft oscillated but couldn't spin, which I somehow traced to a dead running capacitor (all sealed, so I had to trash it). But this is an AC motor, not DC.

The only part I haven't tested yet is the capacitor. However, as it is a high-voltage capacitor that may hold a charge for a while and there's no apparent bleed resistor across its terminals, I held back. I have a wide range of low-power resistors, but currently don't know how to calculate a bleed resistor value.

Any insight appreciated.

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