Frigidaire Front Load FWT449GFS2

[eyefly]

 Washer fills, tumbles in both directions, and drains.  No spin on any cycle.  Door light indicates the door is locked and pushing on the door does not help.  Although the door lock has made a irritating buzzing sound since new.

I am handy with a wrench and know how use a mulitimeter. I signed up to get access to the repair manual but have not been able to access this. Perhaps a direct link would help.

Need help asap.....My wife is going to shoot me if she has to go to the coin-op laundery one more time 

[bigger hammer]

grab the tech sheet and start doing the resistance checks for the motor and the motor control board

[eyefly]

Although I am but a insignificant grasshopper, I found the sacred scrolls (tech sheet) and performed the rituals (resistance checks).

stator winding (tapped field)  should be .37 ohm  I got 1.6

Stator winding ( full field)  should be 1.26  ohm  I got 2.5 :X

Tachogenerator should be 135 ohm  I got 134

Motor thermal protect should be less than 1 ohm I got 1.3

armature less than 5...I got 3.3

I did not find resistance data to test the speed control board.

I have sought spiritual insight by consuming the sacred elixir ( Michelob Light) yet no enlightenment has been found. :shock:

Tell me great master ... What do these numbers mean ...and where do I find the information to test the speed control board...

And is it normal for the door lock coil to buzz

I do not want to be a part changing monkey

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

A valiant effort thus far and, with a little help, you'll have this fixed up before you can say PNEUMONOULTRAMICROSCOPICSILICOVOLCANOCONIOSI.

The resistance readings you've reported are close enough to the book values, especially given variances in meter readings, whether or not the meter was calibrated, fresh batteries, etc.

Check out the attached flow chart; might make more sense.

Also, I emailed you a) another Xdrive link to your *correct* email address and the direct link to the service manual for this washer.

[eyefly]

Thanks so much... I downloaded the manual you sent

Problem...the flow chart indicates that my speed control board has a ten pin plug and a six pin plug....  not so on my board....  I have a nine pin plug and a four pin plug.

I read somewhere that this model could have either a AC motor or a DC motor...although AC/DC was one of my favorite bands ...I don't know jack about motors.

I noticed my unit was actually manufactured in 1999... so wrong manual?

Still having trouble accessing your Xdrive folder...I'll figure that out later

BTW...I see where you guy make all of your $$$$ .....the machine tipped me $2.13! (coin catcher)  strange thing.. the penneys looked like someone took a grinder to them.. the silver coins were fine. This machine knows the value of a dollar

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Ok, possibly wrong manual. I think maybe I listened to a little too much AC/DC, musta given you the wrong manual. Nevermind the flowchart. Could you fax me a copy of the test procedure you're using for your washer? My fax number is 775-416-4449.

Do you have an alternate email address we can use for your Xdrive account? You can just PM it to me if you don't want to post it here.

[eyefly]

Ok...I am a parts changin monkey.... The new speed control board did not change anything...still tumbles both ways but no spin....suggestion?

Also my fax is down right now... I'll see if I can scan per your request and email

 

[eyefly]

Found the problem!...looked at strip circuit for the fast spin ..noticed doorlock switch must be closed and it has a test connector to jump the switch..very easy to access behind front lower panel....jumped the switch and she spins away!

Ordering the part today!

 

[eyefly]

ok now another question....there is a door lock/latch kit p/n 820920 and a door lock switch assembly p/n 1191127.

The kit has a cement counterweight and wires attached to the switch plus instructions....and the assembly looks like the same switch without all the other crap.... however the assembly costs more than the kit..???

This seems rather strange...is there some service bulletin going on here?

What should I get?  

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

The difference depends on your serial number. On some series, you need to use the modified cement block because the new door switch assembly won't fit otherwise. On others, it's plug n' chug. Get the kit with the cement block-- for some crazy reason, it's cheaper than the switch alone. Go figure. Anyway, the instructions on the kit has the spec on which serial numbers need the block and which don't. If you need it, you got it; if you don't, you got a target-- they blow up real good with a 12-gauge and 00 buck.

[eyefly]

I got the part...there was a new wiring harness that came with it along with the cement counterweight.  I did not need the counterweight so I now have a new boat anchor..... The wiring harness however was suppose to be installed for my serial #.  It actually re-routed some of the circuits... However, it was not plug compatible with some of the existing plugs.... It looked like an additional pain in the ass to retrofit

Anyway, the switch was identical to the one removed. So I just replaced the switch and it works just fine now.

My family thinks I am a genius.  Rock on!