PAV2300AWW MAYTAG TOP LOAD BELT DRIVE WASHER MOTOR CLICKS ON AND OFF DURING SPIN

[Guest]

Hello.   

I replaced brake on this washer when the tub would rotate freely at all times, the tub would turn during agitation, and I belive it was the brake splipping that ultimately caused laundry to pile up on wide side of the tub and cause a major off-balance problem.  

After the brake was replaced the tub is now very firm and very difficult to roatate by hand.  I feel like maybe this is where the issue is with the motor ticking.  

We did a few loads and everything med ok but then   with a full load and full of water the machine smelled like buring electrical and was not spinning. I tried various positions on the timer to get it to drain and spin and finally found one spot that worked enough to get it drained and spun out. Before finding that sweet spot the motor would just hum and the timer made a humming or electrical arcing noise as well.

Fast forward to installing the new timer and on first try the tub only had a few seconds of water in it and the motor clicked on and off as it tried to spin.  Eventually it did start spinning but obviously it is not right.  

Any ideas?

The tub has always slipped as I recall, so it always had a brake that was coated in oil.  I did replace with a new one but physically the old brake was not worn out, it was just covered in thick oil and therefore had no holding power.

Is the motor clicking on and off because somehoe the brake is holding too good now? Should the tub be really hard to rotate when off?

Is there something on the motor such as a capacitor that has failed and thats why the motor wont stay on to spin the tub? Once the tub is spinning it seems to be fine, it just seems like the motor can't get over the hump of starting up.

 

Thanks for any thoughts

 

 

[ServiceTech_Daniel]

Hearing the motor hum, i would make that my first point of interest. 

When the motor is humming, remove the belt to see if the motor starts , if it continues to hum i would say you have a bad motor. If it start's i would start looking towards the brakes/gear casing/tub bearing, ect to see why it would not move 

 

[Guest]

Thank you for your response.  That's a great idea to check the motor.  I will do that soon.

Do you have a thought on the amount of force it takes to rotate the tub by hand?  After fixing the break it takes a lot of force to overcome the brake.  I assumed it is supposed to be that way but I'm not sure as I think it has turned freely the whole time we have had it.

I'm curious to know how the brake works, does the motor just overpower the holding force of the brake or does the brake somehow disengage from the drum?

Thanks again.  I will write a follow up after trying the machine without the belt.

 

[Budget Appliance Repair]

@Dr. Horshenschwartz The brake has to disengage, (the brake drum is pushed upwards), by the drive pulley riding up the ramp and pressing against the brake rotor hub.

[Guest]

21 hours ago, Budget Appliance Repair said:

@Dr. Horshenschwartz The brake has to disengage, (the brake drum is pushed upwards), by the drive pulley riding up the ramp and pressing against the brake rotor hub.

Interesting.  Maybe I used the wrong term. When I said brake drum I was referring to the part that screws to the bottom of the transmission.  The one where you're supposed to remove two screws and replace them with longer screws to then be able to release the spring tension.  That piece can't move. So I guess you're saying the brake itself, the round disc with brake material around the edge?

Does the brake disc somehow move up off the drum during operation? 

Currently with the machine off the basket is held very firm by the brake. It takes both hands and a lot of force to rotate it. 

I really feel like I reinstalled everything correctly. 

[Budget Appliance Repair]

@Dr. Horshenschwartz Yes, now you have it correct - the stationary lower part of the brake - the upper portion with brake lining material that is keyed to the splines on the lower end of the transmission slides up and down on the splines, (the strong spring keeps the brake lining/hub engaged with the lower stationary drum).  The pulley when it turns in the spin direction runs the pulley up the lower pulley helix ramp pushing the pulley against the thrust busing thus pushing the brake hub and lining up disengaging the brake and letting the complete transmission spin.

If the main transmission pulley just turns easily in both directions then you could have an internal transmission problem - the input shaft has a special one way gear with a special tab on it so that when turned in the spin direction the input shaft won't turn inside the transmission causing the transmission pulley to ride up the pulley ramp releasing the brake and turning the transmission.

If the special gear attached to the input shaft of the transmission breaks then the shaft just turns freely inside the transmission so the pulley can't ramp up and release the brake.

Only place you can get this special gear is to find it on Ebay - it's not sold by the manufacture and some of these transmission aren't even easily taken apart to check inside to do any repairs, (they have metal tabs bent over holding transmission halves together).

[Guest]

@Budget Appliance Repair 

Thank you again. I will get back to this after Christmas and follow up here. 

 

 

[Guest]

Regarding the tub not spinning by hand in either direction. @Budget Appliance Repair I took the thrust bearing assembly out again and I was thinking I had one of the washers on the shaft before the pulley goes on and by moving it to go on after the pulley and beofore the bigger washer and e-clip. This did actually improve things when I tried turning the pulley bag hand. It was quite easy to get it to rotate counter-clockwise and I then saw what you mentioned about the cam piece causing the brake to disengage.  Previous to this the cam would turn to the maximum point allowed in the pulley body and the drum would not turn.  Now with the one washer moved to below the final washer the cam only turns about half the available distance before the tubs turns.  Before starting the washer I took this all out again and cleaned everything in the picture with acetone.  Its all clean and bright and I applied high temp grease to all of them as well as the shaft.

I thought everything was going to be great.  It was not. 

When I started the washer on spin cycle I essentially got the same results.  It spun a couple of times slower than it should then it stopped and the motor hummed.

I watched a couple videos about replacing the thrust bearing assembly and they all show the bearing having a plastic portion. As you can see mine does not; I was thinking mine was just an old original style, now I'm wondering if the plastic has just disinigrated away?

Then I was thinking the motor is burnt up as I had smelled electrical burning when this all started.  So I ohmed out all the wires and came up with the following.  I could not find any video with the same motor that showed what good results should be.  Here's what I got.  I just don't want to replace things that aren't really broken like a parts-changing monkee.

BLACK TO RED 3.9

PURPLE TO WHITE 2.9

PURPLE TO YELLOW 3.5

PURPLE TO ORANGE 2.7

WHITE TO YELLOW 1.6

WHITE TO ORANGE 0.2

YELLOW TO ORANGE 1.6

The orange wire leads into the item marked 801 and I undertand that to be an overload protector switch

The motor pulley does not turn freely but it can be turned. I'm thinking it should turn more freely.

I did try the spin cyclse without the belt on, the motor does spin but was the belt is on it will not sping.  So it's either the motor is close to dead or that thrust bearing is disinigrated and requires the plastic housing which is not there. The bearing itself appears to be in fine cosmetic condition.

Your opinion and help is much appreciated.

I should have taken a picture of all the washers and the bearing after cleaning, but I did not.  They all came clean and mostly shiny

 

 

[Guest]

After posting that last message I did find a video showing the bearing I have as being and old style.