LG Sidekick WD100CW | Rust on dome in inner tub: salvageable?

[JunneSparkler]

Hi there,

Just wanting a sanity check on this. Should I try to remove the rust (is that even possible?), or just replace the inner tub? Or leave it as is?

Full story: I've been dealing with a leaky washer above this pedestal washer for months. Finally found the leak and fixed it, only to discover that the vinegar that I added to the Sidekick to try to keep it fresh(ish) while the washer above was leaking had rusted that central dome in the inner tub. It didn't rust any other part of the assembly, so I don't know what's up, unless that little part is plastic with a chrome plating. Anywho, I have my mouse poised to pull the trigger on a replacement tub on eBay, but if I can save the ~$100 and the hours on the repair by somehow refurbishing this one, that would be fantastic. I've tried a magic eraser (aka melamine sponge) on this, but it didn't seem to make much difference on the tub, although the sponge did turn rust-colored.

Thanks so much!!!

JunneSparkler

[Budget Appliance Repair]

@JunneSparkler That is just a chrome plated plastic cap.

For the actual LG model numbers for those SideKick washers it doesn't show that removable cap for some reason.

I found a Kenmore model of the same type SideKick washer and it list the center cap as a separate part as should the diagrams for the LG model numbers.

Here's the Kenmore model number that i found that uses the same spin basket and support spider that also list the plastic chrome plated center cap.

Here's the part# and also has a video that shows removing the cap.

Part number: 5006EA3009B

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/ShowPartImage.aspx?forumimg=5006EA3009B

[JunneSparkler]

Thank you thank you THANK YOU!

[JunneSparkler]

On 1/14/2024 at 6:08 AM, Budget Appliance Repair said:

@JunneSparkler That is just a chrome plated plastic cap.

For the actual LG model numbers for those SideKick washers it doesn't show that removable cap for some reason.

I found a Kenmore model of the same type SideKick washer . . .

I had to come back and thank you again. I’m doing this repair because times are tight, and this isn’t the first new forum I’ve tried in my various DIY efforts. I’ve had some really disappointing responses other places, where I’ve been called stupid and told off for just being inexperienced. Your reply was respectful, incredibly helpful, and you took the time to go find the resources I needed, instead of telling me that they were out there somewhere and that I needed to go try to find them. (Which is really hard when you don’t know the jargon.) I’ve got my own areas of expertise, and so jumping into a completely unknown industry is challenging because I have some concept of just how much I don’t know.

So, thank you for taking a situation that was daunting and expensive, and flipping the script for me. Parts are on order, and I’ll have a shiny new cap installed by early next week. Hooray!

[JunneSparkler]

I know it’s been a hot minute since I posted, but I wanted to update the thread.
 

Bad news. The cap is definitely metal—the brown stuff is rust—and the cap isn’t coming off like the video says it should. Instead of popping off nicely, the bottom edges of the cap have given way somewhat, becoming rough. The cap is rusted, so it’s not like I could somehow smooth the rough edges and use it again. I’ve got to get it out, one way or another. Been working on it for about fifteen minutes, and it seems like I’m not strong enough to push the tabs in and get the darn thing off. Maybe I’ll call my son who installs hydronic systems and for fun goes on runs wearing a 40# backpack with his military buddy.
 

The plastic replacement I ordered would easily have broken by now, if the places were swapped; I’m just hoping it fits and I can use it once I get the bad one off. . . 

[JunneSparkler]

[Budget Appliance Repair]

I'm pretty sure the original one is also plastic.

Have you only tried to pry between the cap and the agitator where I can see the chips at the 10 o'clock postion in your picture?

I've never removed one of these but looking at the pictures there is a finger/tab at each of the slots in the top of the cap.  I think you need to slide a small screwdriver into one or two of the slots and push both tips to the center to release the locking finger.

[JunneSparkler]

Yes, I’ve tried to pry up the cap as shown in multiple videos online—but every one of those videos was for a regular washer. If you enlarge the last photo I posted, you can see where I’ve deformed the edges of the metal. If it was plastic, I would’ve broken it with the force I’ve used trying to get it off. It seems to be pot metal, too—not bending cleanly, but kind of “mushng” (if you can imagine what mushy metal is), making really rough edges that will catch clothing.
 

I ordered a new plastic cap, back after I got your initial response  and it’s definitely not the same material. Tapping on each one produces very different sounds. Even accounting for acoustic differences between the mounted cap and the new one, the vibrational difference is marked. 

Maybe later models have a plastic cap, but this first gen washer definitely doesn’t. 

To be clear, I’m not angry or argumentative. Just wanting to keep the info here accurate, so others who might be searching for this online will have correct info.