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  • Upcoming Events

    • 04 January 2025 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
      0  
      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in the conversation for all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This event is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, January 4 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

Ge electric cook top help needed.


Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm not sure how to proceed.

 

My double burner only the inner coil was working.  So I order a new coil.$175 or so.  Put it in and now I have nothing.  

I can check resistance on the 2 coils, but if the thermal switch is defective.. how do I determine.

I haven't found a schematic,  but seriously doubt I got the wires mixed up.  Pretty simple.

 

 

20240120_163926.jpg

Posted

You need to look at the number/letter markings on the Hi-Limit/Hot-Surface switch to make sure you put the correct wires on the correct terminals.

If I recall correctly if you just moved the wires one for one to the terminal they came off the old element onto the new element that won't work because they moved them around.   The number/letter are 1a/2a/1b/2b - I'm pretty sure 1a to 2a is the hi-limit safety that should always be a NC-Normally Closed circuit with the element and sensor cold and the 1b to 2b is the Hot Surface light switch that should always be a NO-Normally Open circuit with the element and sensor cold.

  • Like 1
Posted

So it's complicated.   

1) I did the coil first and the new ge coil doest work.  I quickly though it might be the switch and replaced it.

So I'm trying to understand if the non working burner is miss wired or if the temp switch in the burner is bad.

 

 

Posted

@samiam44 I think you have the wiring to the hi-limit/hot-surface switch wrong.

Did you do as I said above - look at the numbers/letters stamped in the ceramic switch housing on the old and the new element and you will most likely find they are in different positions.

Did you just pull and swap wire for wire where they came off the old bad element and to the same place on the new element.

Posted

I'll go back and verify.   I see the 1a, 1b, 2a and 2 b in the ceramic.   Silly me I was trying to wrap my head around the schematic which labels the terminals differently.   2, 4, s, h and 4a.  

 

Go figure. 

Screenshot_20240212_125841_Chrome.jpg

Posted

The original according to the diagram has both terminals for the Hot-Surface contacts on one side of the switch and the Hi-Limit contacts on the other.

The newer switches go from one side to the other across the ceramic body instead of staying on the same side for each switch.

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