Refrigerator not cooling - Model: GDS20SBSBSS

[Myth]

Hi.

- Lights are on.

- Both freezer and fridge is warm.

- Don't hear the compressor running

- Had to replace the board back in 2015.

 

Thank you.

[Guest]

At the top of this forum is a writeup about where to start with a warm refrigerator situation.  

There's so many things it could be but it's often just one thing. 

Come back and give feedback and someone will likely respond. 

[Guest]

1 hour ago, Myth said:

Hi.

- Lights are on.

- Both freezer and fridge is warm.

- Don't hear the compressor running

- Had to replace the board back in 2015.

 

Thank you.

Disclaimer:  I'm just a DIY guy. I fix everything I own myself; sometimes with the aid of a fourm like this one. 

There's a lot of very qualified people here who make an honest living doing appliance repair. I say honest because if they are replying here they are likely not in your service area and don't financially lose because of it and generally seem to just want to help people. 

I looked up your specific model. 

The fast-forward guess is your compressor start capacitor and or relay have failed. In my experience if you happened to hear the compressor turn on and off a lot more than usual recently and if you have noticed freezer items not as hard recently, or refrigerator items less cold or more warm then this could be the reason. 

Sone will look down on jumping forward but they are common wear items. I just replaced mine after about 8 years I'd guess. I had a universal Supco Hard Start kit on hand for years anticipating this situation but installing one is more complicated than replacing the parts as it requires cutting and stripping existing wires going to the compressor and securing those wires to the Supco and securing the Supco itself but having one saved us on Thanksgiving eve. Our water heater got us on Christmas Eve a couple years ago. 

On the subject of parts. You can buy them from a hundred places at a hundred price points. You can get OEM or fake OEM, or generic. You decide where your luck stands. 

Recent example for me is I quickly looked at a parts diagram from our Speed Queen washer and saw it has a start capacitor so I ordered two, one from two separate listings because I was hoping one would arrive before the other. One of those two generic capacitors was half the physical size of the other. It may be just as powerful as the other but both were aftermarket; not OEM. 

I didn't end up needing the because I missed on the diagram that my model does use a capacitor. 

Anyhow, your OEM capacitor is north of $70  as well as the relay. The generic of both are sub $20 each. You decide your level of game play. 

My professional unprofessional advice is whatever you do also get a Supco hard start kit and watch a video about how to install it and keep it on hand because a warm freezer means a warm refrigerator and that sucks really quick. 

Not all units use the same individual capacitor and relay but most non-inverter compressors can use a Supco kit. 

 

 

[Myth]

Hi,

There doesn't seem to be a connector to detach from the condenser fan.  There was this connector hanging loose(see pic), Should I be measuring the voltage from this connector?  If not, I'll take another look in case i just missed where to disconnect..

Also noticed some blown capacitors on the board(see pic).  Will have to replace those.

Previously, someone from this board gave me pins to jump on this same board to verify that it was indeed a board problem.  I don't have the manual, hoping to get that info again as the post has been removed from here due to age i assume, was back in 2015.

Thanks.

[Budget Appliance Repair]

I think that loose plug is for an add on/optional ice maker - that would be the water inlet valve plug

here's your condenser fan motor - follow the wires from it to where it plugs in.  There should be the shown connector plugged in.

Part number: WR84X10055

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/ShowPartImage.aspx?forumimg=WR84X10055

[Myth]

Hello, 

I replaced all blown capacitors on the main board as well as a burned out resistor pack under the board.  Still did not come on.

What voltage should I be getting on the connector going to the condenser motor?

The other thing I noticed, after disconnecting the condensor motor connector, and plugging back in, there's a ticking/tapping sound coming from inside the fridge.

 

Thank you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Myth]

Hi,

Can anyone tell me based on the schematic which pins to jump to bypass the mainboard.

Getting some seemingly odd readings going to the condensor fan connector.  At the connector I measured from the Red wire to ground(white), the reading continuously fluctuated between 12VDC - 18VDC. The Pink (PK) wire to ground(white), gave me a fluctuation from 5VDC down to 0.3VDC.  I'm getting no readings in VAC.  I suspect it may still be a board problem, just want to confirm.

Thanks.

[Nathaniel Peterson]

On 3/24/2024 at 11:06 AM, Myth said:

Hi,

Can anyone tell me based on the schematic which pins to jump to bypass the mainboard.

Getting some seemingly odd readings going to the condensor fan connector.  At the connector I measured from the Red wire to ground(white), the reading continuously fluctuated between 12VDC - 18VDC. The Pink (PK) wire to ground(white), gave me a fluctuation from 5VDC down to 0.3VDC.  I'm getting no readings in VAC.  I suspect it may still be a board problem, just want to confirm.

Thanks.

You need to be testing pink to red on the J2 connector to prove the board is sending 12 vdc to the condenser fan and then the blue neutral and black connector for 120 VAC for the compressor is getting voltage to prove the board is sending 12 vdc.

[Myth]

On 3/29/2024 at 4:21 PM, Nathaniel Peterson said:

You need to be testing pink to red on the J2 connector to prove the board is sending 12 vdc to the condenser fan and then the blue neutral and black connector for 120 VAC for the compressor is getting voltage to prove the board is sending 12 vdc.

Just replaced the board.  When I put my probes from pink to red while the connector is on the board, no readings (0VDC).  When i now test at the connector going to the condensor fan, i get a steady 13.5VDC PInk to White and Red to White.

You referring to blue neutral going to J7 and black on J8?

After disconnecting the condensor fan connector and plugging in the fridge.  Both evap fan and compressor run.

 

[Markc]

Just now, Myth said:

Just replaced the board.  When I put my probes from pink to red while the connector is on the board, no readings (0VDC).  When i now test at the connector going to the condensor fan, i get a steady 13.5VDC PInk to White and Red to White.

You referring to blue neutral going to J7 and black on J8?

After disconnecting the condensor fan connector and plugging in the fridge.  Both evap fan and compressor run.

 

I think I may have fixed it by replacing the thermistor, but now when I tried to put it into service mode I could not get it to go into this mode, although I never had that problem before,  do you have any ideas as to what could cause this?

[Nathaniel Peterson]

10 hours ago, Myth said:

Just replaced the board.  When I put my probes from pink to red while the connector is on the board, no readings (0VDC).  When i now test at the connector going to the condensor fan, i get a steady 13.5VDC PInk to White and Red to White.

You referring to blue neutral going to J7 and black on J8?

After disconnecting the condensor fan connector and plugging in the fridge.  Both evap fan and compressor run.

 

The one that's blue wire with the number 9 on the control.

[Nathaniel Peterson]

10 hours ago, Myth said:

Just replaced the board.  When I put my probes from pink to red while the connector is on the board, no readings (0VDC).  When i now test at the connector going to the condensor fan, i get a steady 13.5VDC PInk to White and Red to White.

You referring to blue neutral going to J7 and black on J8?

After disconnecting the condensor fan connector and plugging in the fridge.  Both evap fan and compressor run.

 

Condenser fan is bad loading down the dc power. Don't plug it back in until you replace the fan. Most likely your fan took out the board.