Stacked GE washer/dryer repeatedly rinses, drains then spins over and over again. Also zero cold water comes out even when selected

[denhamj21]

I have a GE stacked gud27essj0ww washer/dryer that recently wasn't draining. I did some research and replaced the drain pump and now it drains but there is a whole new problem. The thing will constantly rinse drain and spin over and over again until I manually shut it off. Also there is absolutely no cold water even when I select it. Only scalding hot water is used. I did some research and read that the washer hot/cold valve screens could be clogged with deposits. However this model does not have removable screens. Upon inspection the screens to not look clogged at all. I read a bad cold water valve could be the reason for no cold water and the repeated rinse cycles and was considering replacing it, HOWEVER I put the thing in diagnostics mode and zero error codes came up. On top of that I ran hot/cold water tests in d mode and COLD WATER COMES OUT during cold water test! So now I am completely lost and don't know what the issue could be and am really hoping someone here could help. Thanks!! 

[Guest]

This is confunsing.

The water valve has solenoids that are naturally closed and when the washer calls for cold it will open cold, hot when it wants hot, and both when you want warm.

Did you do any other work at the same time?

If I didn't have any other deatils I would guess that the hot water line is hooked to the cold side of the valve because you somewhat imply that hot water comes out when you ask for cold.  Your description is not completely clear as to what happens when you select cold water.  It could imply that you're expecting some cold water to come out but only scalding hot water comes out.  Or you could be saying that zero water of any temperature comes out when you have selected cold but when you select hot water you get the scalding hot water.

First off the scalding hot temperature is determined by your water heater, not the washer.

There are a couple of isues mentioned here but it's imporatant to address one at a time.

If hot water comes out when you ask for cold then you have the water lines hooked to the incorrect side of the valve.

The initial issue of rinse, drain, spin, repeat is seperate at this point. Replacing the water pump may have not been necessary as the drain function is a cycle and the pump is likely mechanical (without checking) and not electrically controlled.

Possibly you unhooked wiring to something when you were in there? Or replaced connections to the wrong spot?  

I hate to say i

[Guest]

pressed submit too soon.

I hate to say it may be the time blindly, but it may be the timer. You should double-check those other things first in order to not spend money you don't need to.

[Guest]

Hate to say it may be the timer, blindly is what I meant to say.  It's not possible to edit posts here for me.

[L. Ron Hoover]

It's an electric drain pump and doesn't have a timer, Doc. 

It sounds like the board.  heres why

If the water fill hoses are correct and its RINSING with hot, points to the main board.  Especially because it performs properly in diagnostics mode.

The infinite rinse/spin cycle can happen if the machine is out of balance, or THINKS that it is.  I don't remember this model having a mechanical off balance switch.  Those are mounted somewhere near the side of the tub, front or back, and actuated by the tub swaying around.  This model should have the small springs limiting that sway.  They attach to the tub ring and suspension rods.  Make sure they're proper.  If that's all correct, replace the board.

[Guest]

3 hours ago, L. Ron Hoover said:

It's an electric drain pump and doesn't have a timer, Doc. 

Interesting. I learned something. Thanks. 

[denhamj21]

Sorry for late reply. To answer docs questions no, the lines are hooked up correctly. When I say only scalding hot water comes out I mean no matter what temp I select hot, cold, warm, cool etc , it's always steaming hot bc no cold is coming out at all. But during diagnostic mode, the cold water test releases cold water and hot releases hot. And like I said there are no error codes. But when actually doing a load it always hot water even when on cold. I didnt mess w any other words or anything and just replaced drain pump which solved the initial problem of the washer not draining. So Ron, you dont think replacing the hot cold water valve piece cold solve the problem and you think it's a bad board? What other testing can I do to determine its the board? Everything else works including the dryer up top and id hate to buy an expensive board if I'm not 100% sure that's the issue. Wouldn't there be some sort of error code on diagnostics mode if that were the case and why am I not getting any codes right now when the water temp works during d mode? 

[Guest]

11 hours ago, L. Ron Hoover said:

It sounds like the board.  heres why

If the water fill hoses are correct and its RINSING with hot, points to the main board.  Especially because it performs properly in diagnostics mode.

I believe that you're correct but just wanted to say this is very interesting to me. A board in diagnostic mode can perform an expected operation properly even though during normal operation the board will perform the wrong operation.  This makes me question what is the purpose of a diagnostic mode other than to mislead technicians for some reason. If this theory of operation could be proven then this should be the window of opportunity to have a class-action lawsuit against the manufacturerers. They would have to literally design a board to have additional dodads, gizmos, and bleepers  (all technical terms) added to the board to make this happen.  Presumably a diagnostic mode would be like flipping a switch to perform a function on-demand through the same bits as bobs it normally use in normal operation. 

How many thousands of people have been mislead by fake diagnostic modes? 

[Guest]

24 minutes ago, denhamj21 said:

Sorry for late reply. To answer docs questions no, the lines are hooked up correctly. When I say only scalding hot water comes out I mean no matter what temp I select hot, cold, warm, cool etc , it's always steaming hot bc no cold is coming out at all. But during diagnostic mode, the cold water test releases cold water and hot releases hot. And like I said there are no error codes. But when actually doing a load it always hot water even when on cold. I didnt mess w any other words or anything and just replaced drain pump which solved the initial problem of the washer not draining. So Ron, you dont think replacing the hot cold water valve piece cold solve the problem and you think it's a bad board? What other testing can I do to determine its the board? Everything else works including the dryer up top and id hate to buy an expensive board if I'm not 100% sure that's the issue. Wouldn't there be some sort of error code on diagnostics mode if that were the case and why am I not getting any codes right now when the water temp works during d mode? 

Interesting information.  The pros will have to take it from here, I'm just a DIY person myself and was hoping by asking the initial questions would get some traction from others. Seems to have worked. People love a wrong answer or question to get things moving for them, it's like problem solving crack. 

[L. Ron Hoover]

How is it fooling you?  Service mode confirmed that you had the hoses connected properly and that each valve is operating properly.  By process of elimination the chief suspect becomes the brain.  The infinite cycle adds even more evidence.  The brain does have some limited self diagnostics, but just like with people, a bad brain doesn't always know that it's gone bad.  

This unit is going to be 8? or so years old.  The trannies in these are failing at a very high rate leading to a decent supply of used parts with moderate demand for the board.  Should be less than $100 bucks.  

[L. Ron Hoover]

Oops sorry, I apologize.  I answered multiple posts at once forgetting who said what.  I used a number of incorrect pronouns.  Hopefully you both read between the lines to get the right message.  

[vee8power]

5 minutes ago, L. Ron Hoover said:

I used a number of incorrect pronouns.  

Bailif, Whack his pp!

[Guest]

2 hours ago, L. Ron Hoover said:

How is it fooling you?  Service mode confirmed that you had the hoses connected properly and that each valve is operating properly.  By process of elimination the chief suspect becomes the brain.  The infinite cycle adds even more evidence.  The brain does have some limited self diagnostics, but just like with people, a bad brain doesn't always know that it's gone bad.  

This unit is going to be 8? or so years old.  The trannies in these are failing at a very high rate leading to a decent supply of used parts with moderate demand for the board.  Should be less than $100 bucks.  

I think you meant this reply to be for me. 

My line of thought was that diagnostic mode would make a call for cold water and turn on the cold water through the same path that the board would call for it in regular operation. 

So if I'm understanding correctly, under normal operation; if cold water would be needeed, the board or brain or whatever could, in error, turn on the hot water instead. This is what doesn't make sense to me from a design standpoint. Again I'm not arguing that you are wrong; just discussing it, it seems like there's a need for a diagnostic mode for diagnostic mode. 

In my mind diagnostic mode should be a shortcut to operating each component on demand rather than waiting for it during the normal cycle, but using the exact same path, electronically. If I want to be sure the tub can spin then diagnostic mode should show if it's possible to spin, and the same for cold water, hot water, agitate, whatever.  

Diagnostic mode for diagnostic mode should be invented. 

[dfphoto]

what you do is test for voltage at the water valve during the call for cold water if you get 120v and no cold I would think that's a solenoid problem.