Kenmore FrontLoad Washer 41741142000

[winenotwhine]

The washer starts up fine, rotates back and forth as it fills, but stalls out mid-cycle. No loss of elctricity--i.e. advancing the knob manually gets it to spin. The pump sounds louder than usual. Otherwise nothing out of the ordinary seems to be happening.

 

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

[user=4943]winenotwhine[/user] wrote:

The washer starts up fine, rotates back and forth as it fills, but stalls out mid-cycle. No loss of elctricity-

Need to see if the motor is getting voltage or not when it stalls.

Also, there's a tech sheet behind that front quarter panel at the floor. It has a test procedure and lots of other goodies that we'll want to snack on.

[winenotwhine]

Found the tech sheet--there's a 7 step.  "Motor Will not run" procedure.

One to check power and function of the pump--checks OK.

Step 2 take off the belt and see if the motor rotates--it does.

Step 3 measure voltage at speed control 6 pin harness--checks OK 120Vac

Step 4 Set timer to heavy regular wash--check voltage between 6 and 12 pin harness on assorted pins. All check OK.

Step 5 Measure resistance--check fuse on speed control board. If open replace speed control board.

I'm stuck here since I don't see anything that looks like a fuse and there's no illustration anywhere.

Noteworthy is that the one line diagram on the reverse side of this troubleshoot procedure has a heading "If no motor rotation during spin". That is our problem---motor agiatates back and forth but stops right around spin time.

But I don't know how to interpret the diagram.

 

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

[user=4943]winenotwhine[/user] wrote:

I'm stuck here since I don't see anything that looks like a fuse and there's no illustration anywhere.

If you post a picture of the board, I may be able to eyeball the fuse for you.

Noteworthy is that the one line diagram on the reverse side of this troubleshoot procedure has a heading "If no motor rotation during spin". That is our problem---motor agiatates back and forth but stops right around spin time.

But I don't know how to interpret the diagram.

Fax it to me: 775-416-4449

[winenotwhine]

Sent the fax--can't get the jpg image to attach to a reply.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Got the fax. How big is the image? I allow 500k, which is waaaay more than plenty. If it's bigger than that, you'll need make is smaller.

[winenotwhine]

The image is 463Kb. I just don't see how to move it from my computer onto the forum reply page.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Just email it to me: samurai _AT_ fixitnow.com

[winenotwhine]

Any more thoughts on this one?

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Were you not able to email the picture of the board to me? I think that's where we left this one. The plan is to attempt to locate and test the fuse on the speed control board to give a quick pass/fail test on the board.

Failing that, you'll need to check for 120vac at pins C10.1, 2, 6, & 10 (and C10.9 if yours has the speed switch. Another note on the speed switch-- this should be checked separately using a simple ohm check on each switch position. Ohms test == no power applied and at least one wire removed from the component being tested.)

[winenotwhine]

Just resent the picture---probably had your email enteretd incorrectly. On the ohms test, 0 resistance means no continuity, means given component is not working?

 

Tks.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Got the picture. The fuse is the white cylinder with a metal cap on each end with a wire going out and bending down to the board. In this case only, you can check continuity without disconnecting one of the leads.

Zero resistance means you HAVE continuity. Continuity :: Continuous, as in continuous path for electrons to flow.

[winenotwhine]

OK-fuse measures 0 Ohms at Rx1K so it's good. I guess it's on to the pins at C10?

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

[user=4943]winenotwhine[/user] wrote:

OK-fuse measures 0 Ohms at Rx1K so it's good. I guess it's on to the pins at C10?

Da, tovarish. May St. Applianopoulous, the patron saint of appliance repair techs, steady your hands and make your meter read true.

[winenotwhine]

Hmm. The step per the tech sheet right before the fuse test was for a voltage test that sounds just like what you may b e referring to.

Per the tech sheet, I measured voltage at the speed switch between 1,2,6,10 on the 10 pin plug and pin 5 on the six pin plug. Pins 2,6, and 10 read 120v. Pin 12 reads 0 volts. This is all correct according to the sheet. So maybe I'm back to resistances on the speed switch?

 

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

[user=4943]winenotwhine[/user] wrote:

So maybe I'm back to resistances on the speed switch?

Right... mostly. All you need to do is make sure that the switch has continuity at the pins it's supposed to have it on in accordance with the switch position. The wiring diagram shows the pinout.

Does yours, in fact, have the speed switch? Not all models do.

[winenotwhine]

I'm a little confused on the speed switch/control situation. The part that has the six and ten pin receptacles as well as the fuse you pointed out in the picture is called the Speed Control-Mallory/Sole motor.

There is also a manual dial that allows for choosing between normal and fast final rinse speed. This is the option I assume you're referring to.

Thus far all the troubleshooting I've done has been on the Speed Control. Tomorrow I'll fax the part of the tech sheet (other side of what I previously faxed) that I've been following so we can look at the same step-by-step procedure.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

[user=4943]winenotwhine[/user] wrote:

There is also a manual dial that allows for choosing between normal and fast final rinse speed. This is the option I assume you're referring to.

That is correct, this is the speed control switch.

[winenotwhine]

I just faxed the tech sheet that has a 7 step troubleshoot procedure for the motor. I'm on step 6. It asks to measure pins 1,2 nad 3 in Meg ohms. My meter has Rx1000 and Rx10. Do I need another meter?

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

[user=4943]winenotwhine[/user] wrote:

My meter has Rx1000 and Rx10. Do I need another meter?

I don't know your meter. What's the highest resistance it can read? Analog or digital? If set on the Rx1K scale, can your meter register a reading of 3000 ohms (which would actually be 3 M-ohms)?

[winenotwhine]

I've got an analog GB Instruments meter--highest reading on the dial is 1K.  Looks like that isn't gunna cut it---I'll try to get my hands on another and report back the resistances on step 6 and 7 from the tech sheet I faxed earlier.

[winenotwhine]

OK--I got hold of a digital meter, also GB Instruments--has the same dial configuration as the one on your link about how to make basic electric readings. Ohm choices are 200, 2000, 20K, 200K, and 2000K.

At 2000K resistance setting, on the 6 pin part of the speed control--pin 1 to 2 read 440 but rose steadily. Tried it again and it read 780 then descended steadily for about 3 minutes slowing and finally stopping at 540. Pin 2 to 3 read 388 and started rising immediately. Pin 1 to 3 started at 362 and began rising as well. I didn't wait around for the last two readings to stop.

Moving to step seven, resistance on the 6 pin plug harness, the corresponding pin positions, (with the meter at the low setting), everything checked right at 3 ohms.

Is this making sense to you?

 

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

I'm not sure how to read your meter, I'll leave that interpretation to you. But the spec is 3M-ohm +/- 10%. If you're getting something much less than this, then replace the speed control board: http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1021692

[winenotwhine]

I'm definitely not getting 3 mOhm so i ordered the board.

Is it unusual to get a resistance reading that drifts around for a minute before it stops at a final reading?

Thanks.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

[user=4943]winenotwhine[/user] wrote:

Is it unusual to get a resistance reading that drifts around for a minute before it stops at a final reading?

A drifting resistance reading is usually an indication that you're measuring reactance (i.e., resistance due to inductance or capacitance).