Ge Side by Side with Motherboard - Damper Not Operating

[SteveM]

This is an additional note to a previous thread.

I have GE side by side with motherboard, model #GSS25WGMDBB, whose damper door will work for roughly 4 hours and then close and not open again. Diagnostic tests indicate a bad freezer thermistor. I have changed the thermistor twice but the test still indicates it is failing, and the door is still not operating. All other tests indicate the door is okay.

I see there is a test at the J1 connection on the motherboard for voltage and ohms. Does anyone know how I should interepet these tests in relation to the door not opening? I.E. If 2.8-3.5VDC are not present between J1-3(Freezer Thermistor) and J1-5(5V), what does that mean?

 

Thanks

[cdwasher]

Please post the model number

[SteveM]

 Model # is GSS25WGMDBB

[hvacdrd]

Diagnostic tests indicate a bad freezer thermistor

What was the code displayed to indicate that it is bad? O, S or B

Just to verify this was the display for test sequence #5 (freezer thermistor)

Do you show the correct voltages at J1-1, J1-2 and J1-4 using J1-5 on all of them? Reading with the molex connector off and then on.

 

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

This tech sheet may help, too: http://fixitnow.com/wp/2006/06/29/ge-arctica-refrigerator-troubleshooting-tech-sheet/

[SteveM]

The Code was 0 for #5. According to the tech sheet this indicates the sensor is bad, but I find it hard to believe that 2 sensors are bad. Also, I disconeected the first sensor I put in and got 4.5. The sensor I am talking about is located at the bottom of the freezer on the left hand side beneath the evaporator coil.

I don't believe its possible that there isn't a freezer semsor but I have seen the diagnostics test for #3, Custom Cool, and have not seen a second thermistor in the food section for this test. Where would the custom cool thermistor be located, its not the one attahced to the damper is it?

When you say molex, I assume are you talking about the harness connector at the board, correct? If you are, I did not test J1-1, J1-2, J1-4 and J1-5. How would these affect J1-3?

Thanks

 

 

[cdwasher]

  Take the modle number and put into the sears search window and you'll see that that the damper has a thermister with it ,that tells the motherboard when to close the damper and inturn causes the freezer to get colder and that tells the motherboard to cycle unit off and on.post back trying to help cdwasher

[SteveM]

I assume this is the fresh food thermistor and I know it is housed in the trim behind/below the damper assembly.

The damper has been replaced which means this thermistor has been replaced. In addition, the diagnostic board says the fresh food thermistor is P.

So I am not sure that this is what is closing the damper.

 

 

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Steve, do you have the tech sheet/wiring diagram for this beer box? Fax it to me at 775-416-4449 and so I may feast my swollen, bloodshot squinties all upon it. :rooster:

[SteveM]

Scott:

I do not have a wiring diagram here at home. I can try and get a copy of it next time I am out there. The only sheet I have is the one you referenced earlier which deals with the master board.

Is it possible that the temp control at the top front of the food section is malfunctioning and what it is set on is not what the board is reading?

 

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

[user=11026]SteveM[/user] wrote:

Is it possible that the temp control at the top front of the food section is malfunctioning and what it is set on is not what the board is reading?

Very possible. We can run some tests when you get the tech sheet.

[Ron]

Steve, if you are satisfied that the thermistors are o.k.,  run the following checks;  check the continuity at connector J3.  J3-1 to J3-2  should have 400 ohms.  Then J3-3 to J3-4 should show the same. ..If you have those values,  unplug the refrigerator and plug it back in.  Check for 6VDC from J3-1 to J3-4 ( you are going to have to have some cat help you with this cause you only have about 10 seconds to do this test). If you don't have that voltage, replace the main board. ...Ron