F70 & OL error codes on Maytag MVWB725BW0 top load washer

[JimBanville]

Started getting the OL codes recently. Put in diagnostic mode and when it gets to C6 (agitate), it says OL. Turn machine off and on and it shows error code F70. There is no abnormal noise like growling bearings. Basket rotates smooth and quiet and it appears to be level. I removed the basket tray, the flange under it (like 6 or 8 screws securing it), and I pulled off the round plastic piece under that is on the shaft. I think it’s called the hub and is known for having worn grooves. All the grooves appear intact. Not smoothed over like I’ve seen in repair videos. There was some rusty corrosion on the shaft at that hub piece. I also checked the hex bolt in the center of the white circular tray under the machine that is known to become loose. It was tight. 
I guess my next step is to remove the top of the washer and pull the entire wash basket, yes? Thanks. 

[JimBanville]

1 minute ago, JimBanville said:

Don’t see a way to edit my post so I’ll clarify here…

”

Put in diagnostic mode and when it gets to C6 (agitate), it agitates twice (once in each direction) and then stops and says OL.”

 

[Nathaniel Peterson]

On 4/5/2024 at 10:23 AM, JimBanville said:

 

Take a look at the slider. I'm assuming this is a top load washer. Have to remove the t30 or t27 torx bolt holding stator. Then get a mini screwdriver a carefully remove the circular washer band retainer clip and drop down the slider and see if the magnet is loose on the slider. Make sure you pay attention on what direction it's facing for reassembly.

[sh2sh2]

With all those parts removed you should be able to pull the basket straight up the shaft 1-2 inches, if it's stuck on shaft you will get OL code

[JimBanville]

What is the “slider”?

On 4/6/2024 at 4:29 PM, Nathaniel Peterson said:

Take a look at the slider. I'm assuming this is a top load washer. Have to remove the t30 or t27 torx bolt holding stator. Then get a mini screwdriver a carefully remove the circular washer band retainer clip and drop down the slider and see if the magnet is loose on the slider. Make sure you pay attention on what direction it's facing for reassembly.

 

[JimBanville]

On 4/7/2024 at 5:41 AM, sh2sh2 said:

With all those parts removed you should be able to pull the basket straight up the shaft 1-2 inches, if it's stuck on shaft you will get OL code

I did try moving the basket up a down. It didn’t budge. Spins easily. No noise ( like a bad bearing). I pulled off the 2 part plastic hub assembly that ppl complain gets stripped. It wasn’t, but with them out of the way, the basket still didn’t budge. I used the wood board + car jack trick to remove the basket. It was on so tight that I broke one board. Once off, I cleaned the very rusty shaft and the metal rings on the bottom of the basket to the point where they were clean and smooth, I went to put the basket back onto the shaft it barely went down. Still too tight! Guess I’m gonna go at the shaft and the metal hub on the basket with a wire brush and put a little grease to get it to go back on. 

[Budget Appliance Repair]

@JimBanville This isn't the newer style that the nylon/plastic basket drive hub get stripped out.

On this style the basket has to slide on the drive shaft smoothly up and down.  With the nylon/plastic hub completely off the main basket assembly the complete spin basket assembly should slide up/down on the drive shaft easily and smooth.

If things are working correctly when in agitate and enough water fills the tub to make the basket float upwards and disengage the cogged wheel then the wash plate/agitator can move independently from the spin basket, (if the basket can't float up because the shaft and spin basket don't slide easily then the motor sensor can feel the weight of the basket - there shouldn't be hardly any effort for the motor to run just the agitator so when the basket doesn't disengage it gives the OL error).

If you are able to clean the main drive shaft and the center of the spin basket that should slide on the drive shaft it not going to last very long most likely and will gum up again in a short amount of time.  The correct fix would be to replace the drive shaft and bearing kit or the complete outer tub assembly that comes with a new drive shaft and bearings installed, (shipping cost is pretty high to purchase this way - you can get the drive shaft and bearing kit but it's not listed on the parts diagram).