Whirlpool dryer model# WED4815EW1 Won't start, nothing seems off? What am I missing?

[mpk23]

Hello and thanks in advance, all!

 

My dryer failed to start on Tuesday, and I can't seem to narrow down what is wrong - I'm a fairly capable handyman.

All thermal fuses and thermostats I can see have continuity - I had two round ones on the heater box and a longer plastic one, another closer to the fan and lint duct, and a thing with 4 poles, one set had continuity, the other read 7.5Kohms, if I recall correctly.

Belt is on the motor pulley and is intact.

Door Switch functions as it should.

Start button / signal select switch is good. (Continuity when pressed.)

240 volts available at the plug, 120 from each line, so neutral checks out too.

I thought I was gonna crack this thing open, find a failed thermal fuse or thermostat and replace it, but I'm stumped and about ready to drag it back into the house and plug it in again and see if it was a fluke (Not enough room in the laundry 'hall' to work on it.)

 

Am I missing something major or obvious?  I'm hoping it's not the timer assembly, but not sure how to test that guy.

Thanks again!

--Matt

[evaappliance]

Assuming your house power is right ,  the most common thing is the white ,narrow fuse on the blower housing.  Second is the door switch, check it even if it is clicking, third is the timer, this style timer is known to fail this way , 

[mpk23]

5 hours ago, evaappliance said:

Assuming your house power is right ,  the most common thing is the white ,narrow fuse on the blower housing.  Second is the door switch, check it even if it is clicking, third is the timer, this style timer is known to fail this way , 

Thank you,  I think I can get it halfway powered up and start sizing up the timer. I shouldn't need the second line of 240 if I'm not working on the heater.   It's a little intimidating, but I have my schematic...

 

[evaappliance]

if you want to just run the motor you can just have 120 to the left and middle wire on the terminal block, 

[mpk23]

It was the timer switch where the motor current passes through the timer on its way to neutral.  Thanks for the suggestion! No more crunchy towels.