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  • Upcoming Events

    • 07 December 2024 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
      1  
      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in the conversation for all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This event is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, December 7 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

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DLCATL
Posted

Hello everyone, hoping for some advice about my problem. Noticed warm fridge  a few days ago in this GE GFE28GSKKSS model with separate evaporator for the fridge section. Freezer seemed to be holding temp fine -4 deg, but fridge was ~46-48 deg. Before doing anything I cleaned of the condenser. Found the mini service diagnostic pages and ran some of the tests. Evaporator fan wouldn't run. I ordered a replacement fan and installed it. It is possible the old one was iced up and not bad, I couldn't get the cover off at first, and ice may have been why.  The new one runs fine in fan test 47 and in cooling test 95. After the new fan was in the fridge for two days I took the cover off and looked for ice and there was only the lightest trace of frost on the evaporator. So then I tested the thermistors from the top of the fridge and the fridge evaporator. Took both out and tested them in ice water both tested 16.2K ohms same as a new one I got. installed both back in with solder sticks. With the fridge at room temp for a couple of hours the temp tests 24 and 26 both read just over 70 degrees. After restarting the fridge and letting it stabilize the upper thermistor read 46 degrees same as a thermometer I put in the fridge.  At that point the evaporator temp test said ~33 deg. Cooling air blows fine in the fridge when running test 95 so I don't think icing is the issue. Other than when running test 47 or 95 I don't feel airflow in the fridge. If I run test 00 it comes up with error codes  0010 001o and 000d So at that point I decided the control board was likely the culprit and got one. Installed new control board and no change. Freezer fine, Icemaker works. Fridge still too warm. Today did a real thorough job of vacuum brushing out the condenser then I checked the temperature of the hot and cold side of the condenser. Ambient in the house was 72, the compressor discharge was 102, and the cold side of the condenser was 74 degrees. I noted that the first error code says there is an issue with the icemaker thermistor. There isn't much slack in the wiring for the icemaker thermistor, so I really don't want to cut it out to test. Could a problem with the icemaker thermistor cause a warm fridge? I had the icemaker off for a couple of days for whatever that is worth with no change in the warm fridge issue. I still have the spare thermistor and could test and or replace that icemaker thermistor but don't want to fool with it, unless it is likely the source of my warm fridge problem. At this point I am out of ideas..

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DLCATL
Posted

The measured single speed compressor running current is .80 Amps with the doors open @73 ambient. I can't find what the running current should be for this compressor. Anyone know what the compressor running current should be for GE GFE28GSKKSS?

 

 

Posted

That definitely sounds weak for an amp draw. For 2 evaps and 1 comp, based on your description it sounds like your issue is with the valve that splits between the 2 sections, so a sealed system failure

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