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  • Upcoming Events

    • 07 December 2024 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
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      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in the conversation for all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This event is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, December 7 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

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tickytackytech
Posted

The oven unit works fine in a high and low broil, but for some months, the oven bake has been taking forever to reach the desired temp. Last night, it was a no-go. It was set to 425; after 27 minutes, it would only get to 232 degrees... I think maybe a thermostat or sensor?  Any ideas or suggestions? I'm an HVAC installer and service tech and know my way around a multimeter. I'd be a liar if I told you guys I'm an appliance guy, although I've made numerous appliance repairs on household units for friends, neighbors, and relatives. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. The drop-in is a Samsung NX58H9500WS. thanks in advance.

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  • citizenX

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Posted (edited)

Are you getting a flame on the lower burner within a minute or so or just a constant glow from the ignitor with no flame?

If the ignitor is glowing but no flame, it sounds like the ignitor is weak. In general with gas ovens, if the oven ignitor is weak it can still come on and glow and get hot but not hot enough to draw enough current to open the gas valve. If no flame but ignitor is glowing, it is possible the limited heat you are getting after 30 minutes could be from the ignitor itself. The ignitor should draw around 3-3.3 amps when working normally. A weak oven/broil ignitor that will cause problems will typically draw around 2.5 amps or so (or less) which can be enough to glow but not enough to open the gas valve. A typical symptom of a gradually weakening ignitor is the oven will take longer and longer to come to temp, until it craps out altogether. A normally functioning ignitor will typically bring the gas on within 30 seconds or so but a weak one may take 5-10 minutes or longer, if at all. 

That said, if the current draw on the ignitor checks ok but you still have no flame then it sounds like a gas valve issue. 

Edited by citizenX
tickytackytech
Posted

Thanks Citizen X  new igniter arrived this afternoon. Well install in the morn...and let ya know..again..thanks.  Not for nothing, I had a suspicion it was the igniter. If the igniter is weak can it bring on the flame but just not large enough to come up to temperature? This has been an ongoing problem for a year or so ... After maybe 25 to 35 minutes it would reach 350 degree or even 400 but it took so long... I could see we had flame but as I said, took ver long time to achieve set point.

 

Posted
3 minutes ago, tickytackytech said:

If the igniter is weak can it bring on the flame but just not large enough to come up to temperature? 

I mean, not typically but I suppose that could happen while the ignitor is weakening, for a short while anyway. The usual symptom of a weak ignitor is the ignitor will come on and glow but no gas flow at all, or a delayed flow and you get a big "poof" as the gas ignites until it eventually just won't allow any gas to pass at all.  I suppose it could act as yours with reduced flow but I haven't really ever seen that over an extended period of time other than with a bad gas valve itself. That's why I said to check the current draw on the ignitor to see if it was drawing enough current. It still may very well be the ignitor but if you replace it and you still have the same issue, the gas valve is probably bad. And a word of caution, those ignitors are very fragile and will break if you breathe on them wrong so be careful if you have to swap out the bracket or anything. Hopefully it's a direct replacement. 

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