Frigidaire FFSS2315TS5 - Icemaker no water issue

[VinceHilife]

I have a good one here that really needs expert input. Story is a bit long as I changed two parts and did a lot of tests.

I have a double-sided Frigidaire model FFSS2315TS5

It started while I was on vacation. The youngest one called us to report that the freezer was reporting an error code and that she could no longer get ice. The ice cubes were stuck together. Getting back home I removed the ice dispenser to let the ice melt, I ordered new water filters, then installed a new one. We got new ice cubes but again they all stuck together, freezer temp is not an issue.

Then I saw what was happening, every time we used the water dispenser there was also water going in the ice dispenser, that water overflowed the icemaker and dripped in the ice cubes dispenser. I did a bit of research and everything pointed out to inlet valves so I ordered them.

While we waited for the part to arrive someone in the house used the water dispenser, heard a noise and we got a burned smell like when a plastic or electronic component burns. At that moment I closed the water and hoped nothing serious happened. Refrigerator and freezer are still working, the lights too. I still think this is something important but I can’t figure what part could have burned.

Ok, so I installed the new valve and it resolved the water dispenser big leak into the icemaker. We are now using the water dispenser without issues. However there is no water going into the icemaker. Did I get a faulty inlet valve? I don’t know but here is the tests I did:

I measured the ohms of all the valves and they all have a reading a bit under 300 ohms with the exception of the icemaker water valve that reads 192 ohms. I said to myself that it could be the problem but to make sure, on the valves, I inverted the water dispenser connector with the icemaker connector, then I used the water dispenser. It worked: using the electrical current from the water dispenser the icemaker valve let water flow to the icemaker.

At this point I and an unknown burned part, an icemaker valve with low ohms but working when activated by the water dispenser. So I thought since I had a water overflow to the icemaker that maybe the icemaker was broken, maybe it was it that burned.

I ordered a new icemaker, installed it. Still no water coming into the icemaker, I waited a lot of cycles, used the screw to adjust the time water should be on, to no avail: never got water. Otherwise the old an new icemaker were still able to make ice by manually pouring water into them. 

Another idea crossed my mind. Maybe the electric signal from the icemaker is not reaching the icemaker valve? So I disconnected the icemaker and shorted its connector black line with the yellow line that goes to the valve. When I did so, I heard a ‘hum’ sound, kind of a like  a small motor but still no water coming in. I then disconnected the icemaker valve to connect instead a voltmeter and did the same test. Each time I sort the back and the yellow on the icemaker connector I have the 110V led light on on the voltmeter.

So now I am very perplexed and I don’t know what to do next:
Still not found was cause the burned smell
icemaker valve works when activated from the water dispenser but not from either icemakers (the old one and the new one) and not when the black and yellow lines of its connector are shorted.
I probably had a perfectly working icemaker and bought a new one for nothing. But this is part of live and does not bother me so much.

At this point I’m lost. I tried to look at this fridge parts for electronic parts that could have burned but it cannot be the dispenser board as this is mostly a switch board to activate the water dispenser or ice dispenser and a light and all those are working.

Then there is the bigger control module with the buttons to change fridge and freeze temp settings. But then again not only that part is expensive but the fridge and the freezer are working good. 

What do you think? any idea about what to look for next and what other test I can do to diagnose that hard case? Any other thing that could prevent the icemaker valve from working? Could the low ohms on the icemaker valve impact something even if it works when switched with the connector of the water dispenser?

Thanks, any idea welcome
 

[Budget Appliance Repair]

I think the smell of burning plastic/rubber is the diode pak in the water inlet valve circuit shorted which was causing your original problem of ice maker filling every time water was dispensed and by keeping dispensing water testing the diode completely burnt up causing the smell and now no water at all to ice maker.

Frigidaire has two or three different diode sets for this depending on the refrigerator style - I don't have them handy, some else might see this and supply the part# you need.

The diodes are in the wiring harness in the rear compressor area near the main water valve - they are cut from the circuit and the replacement diode kit spliced in.

[VinceHilife]

Thanks Willie for taking the time to answer. I will seriously look at that.

If you are right then it means that this time I failed at DIY and bought replacement parts for nothing. Well, I suppose I can't win them all (In the past I had success changing a refrigerator temp sensor and a dish washer pump) and now I learned a new thing.

I will try my best to find the diodes,

Regards.

[Budget Appliance Repair]

Not sure if this is the correct kit for yours or not - I think it should be

EDITED: This is the correct diode kit for your refrigerator

It will at least give you a picture of what you should be seeing in the wiring harness near the water valve setup when you look at it.

Part number: 5303918287

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/ShowPartImage.aspx?forumimg=5303918287

Edited July 23 by Budget Appliance Repair

[VinceHilife]

Thanks again, I will look at it this weekend.

[VinceHilife]

Sorry, I did not get time to check this last week-end, I did it today.

To make sure this is the problem, I removed the existing diode kit and wired directly the ice-maker electric line to the main valve. I will know if it worked in a few hours. However it makes perfect sense that this is the part failing as connecting the water dispenser electric connector to the icemaker valve was sending water to the icemaker when I shorted icemaker connectors I heard the icemaker valve motor. I did not knew there was another component needed to also activate the main valve.

Of course with the diode kit removed the water dispenser no longer works but I prefer to do this test first since that damn diode kit is really expensive for such a small part. I understand paying a grant for new valves and even more for the icemaker but $50 US for the diode kit is abusive.

Since the kit is removed I can't really perform the test suggested with the diode kit instructions however reading ohms on it shows "open" for one wire and "closed" for the other. I gives me even greater confidence that it is my issue.

I will report again in a few ours and most probably "Mark as Solution" your answer. Many Thanks Willie!

[VinceHilife]

Yes! Ice! 🤩

[VinceHilife]

I ended up buying 1N5408 diodes and wired them according to this diagram. Works and ultra low cost.

[Budget Appliance Repair]

Good job - Totally OK way to handle it and not get gouged on the price of diodes.

[dfphoto]

rockstar!