Samsung Oven (NX58H9500WS) Igniter not heating

[Chris16]

Hello!  Our oven has been taking very long to heat up for about a year.  We have just been living with it.  But the other day we smelled natural gas, so we shut it off and had the gas company inspect.  The gas lines are fine, but it was determined to be coming from the oven itself.

Given the delayed ignition, I thought it was a bad igniter (the igniter was heating and glowing orange, but I read that it might not be drawing enough amps to open the gas valve)...so i replaced it.

Upon replacing, the oven fired up right away. (although I didn't wait for it to get up to temp) I thought I had it fixed.  I slid the oven back in its spot.

When I tried it later, it did ignite...but then would not go over 214 degrees.  I turned it off and tried again later, and this time the igniter didn't even light. Bive since tested the new igniter and it shows continuity.  (130 ohms)...whereas the old igniter that i took out is showing no continuity.

If the new igniter is good, what else could be causing the igniter to not light.

 

Any ideas/suggestions are greatly appreciated.  Thank you!

 

-Chris

[Terry Carmen]

What part number igniter did you put in?

[Chris16]

Hi Terry.

 

Thanks for your reply.

The igniter that I put in is from Amazon.  It's number is:

ERP DG94-01012A Oven Igniter

-Chris

[Terry Carmen]

Did you close the oven door?  It won't run with the door open.

 

Edited August 8 by Terry Carmen

[Chris16]

Yes, I did.  Oven door was closed.  Later during some testing, I had the door off, but held down the button to simulate the door closed (light off).  I currently have the gas valve turned off, but that should have no bearing on the igniter firing up, right?  Weird that it worked initially, but not subsequently....yet it is showing continuity.

Is there a test I can do to make sure the igniter is actually receiving the correct current from the stove?

Thanks a lot.

-Chris

[Terry Carmen]

There should be 120V across the igniter leads. (actually  3-2 v less), but close enough.

I you have 120 volts and the igniter isn't glowing, it's bad.

I you don't have 120 volts, the gas valve is blown up or the board or wiring is bad.

Edited August 8 by Terry Carmen

[Chris16]

Ok, I'll check and report back.  Thanks for your help.

-Chris

 

[Chris16]

Hi Terry.

I checked and there is no voltage reaching the igniter.  Unchecked at the igniter leads, and also checked where I believe the igniter circuit connects to the control board and got nothing there either.  Of course I initiated a bake cycle when testing.  I also tried broil and the broil igniter isn't firing up either, even though it has continuity.

One thing I don't understand is how the lack of current to the igniter could be the result of a blown up gas valve.  I thought the current goes to the igniter first...and once sufficient amps are drawn, the valve opens and allows gas out.

Shouldn't the igniter fire up regardless of the condition of the valve?

How can I determine if it's the valve or the control board?  I did an ohms test on the valve and got about 2 ohms.

Thank you!

-Chris

[Chris16]

It was weird that when I first replaced the igniter, it seemed to work perfectly.  About an hour later after I put the oven back in its spot, it wasn't working properly...started heating but stalled at 214 degrees...and then shortly after that, stopped heating all together...and then no glow to the igniter upon further tries.

I saw a video that suggested if 120 volts aren't reaching the igniter, it could be the temp sensor (which I checked and seems to be good), the thermostat which I haven't checked, the control board, or the thermal fuse.

I haven't checked the thermal fuse, but that blows when the oven gets too hot right? ..and I don't think it has.  Plus, all the display lights are still lit.  When I initiate the bake cycle, I hear the click and the fan comes on...as if it's trying to start.  But no voltage to the igniter.  Thanks again.

-Chris

[Terry Carmen]

Quote

Shouldn't the igniter fire up regardless of the condition of the valve?

No The igniter and the valve are in series.

However it's unlikely that both the bake and broil valves were destroyed. There is something else going on.

 

[Chris16]

Ok, thanks for the info.

-Chris

[Chris16]

Hi Terry.  Just following up.  I replaced the valve and it solved the issue.  Thanks a lot for your help!

-Chris