Jump to content
LIMITED TIME OFFER: Get up to $100 off tuition for Master Samurai Tech courses through November 30th ×
Click here to check out this guide

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Contact


DISCLOSURE: We may earn a commission when you use one of our coupons/links to make a purchase.
  • Upcoming Events

    No upcoming events found

Recommended Posts

MizFixIt
Posted

Okay, I saw that Captain Dunsel shared the tech sheet, but since I am a DIY'er I am unable to view the file. I went to use the dryer and after 2 "Touch Up" cycles, the clothes were still very damp. Clothes weren't even warm. I suspected possibly the dampness sensor was going out (because it would tell me the clothes were dry when using an automatic cycle.) In the past , I would just use Timed Dry and they would be fine. Could someone please help me trouble shoot my dryer as I genuinely cannot afford to call a repair person. Still dealing with my washer leaking water from somewhere. Yes everything I own goes bad all at once, and my car took all of my savings to repair. I don't know whether it is above mentioned sensor, the heating element, or some sort of thermal fuse. 

Any direction on troubleshooting would be greatly appreciated. In the meantime, I am going to be giving it a good thorough vacuuming and double checking to make sure there isn't built up lint in the exhaust vent. Especially since I have noticed that lint likes to get hung on the metal edge of the dryer where the lint screen slides down inside. I regularly use a dryer lint brush to clean any globs of fuzz out- but I am not the only one that uses the dryer in my home. Thanks again!

Model tag also says

TYPE: DSSA-ELLE-2406026-EL54

Kenmore 700 Series

  • Replies 2
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • citizenX

    1

  • dfphoto

    1

  • MizFixIt

    1

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted

Ok, the number one problem with dryers that take a long time to dry (or multiple cycles needed) is a restricted vent or otherwise poor airflow so let's start there. Check your venting from front to back and make sure it is not smashed or crimped off behind the dryer (if a flex vent),  and make sure the termination cap on the outside of the house is opening and clear. Note that just because you may have airflow at the outside wall cap doesn't necessarily mean there's enough air flow. Also make sure that area you mentioned where the filter slides in is clean down inside the door.  I've had that filter channel be completely blocked with lint before. You can't really get all the way down in there to where the blower is unless you take the dryer apart, but that dryer uses a goofy blower with it's own belt that can come off or the blower housing itself can get clogged with lint.

A quick test to rule out a problem with the dryer is to just unhook the venting from the back of the dryer and run a cycle to see if it dries better with it unhooked. You should have pretty strong airflow coming out the back of the dryer.  If it dries ok with no vent hooked up, then the vent is your problem. If there's no, or very little, airflow at the rear of the dryer then that blower or blower belt may be an issue. Try that first before you start messing with sensors and such. 

 

Posted

Looks like you have an electric dryer so unfortunately you probably need a heating element 240v so this can kill you... the entire machine has to be disassembled to replace it... not totally fun if you have power tools to speed up things then you're good... main test is to see if you  have 240v going into the dryer then the rest is to disassemble and test voltage or buy a new machine or hire a tech... sorry...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...