Maytag top load washer MVW7232HW0 lid locked, no error codes because nothing shows in the display panel

[coralbrief1]

This unit stopped running mid-cycle. Although there is power to the outlet, there is no sign of power at the display panel. Changing to different wash cycles does not result in anything different. Push the power button and I get nothing.  It is plugged in to an appliance surge protector. For troubleshooting purposes, I have plugged it directly into the outlet (which is fully powered). Also left it unplugged for more than 30 minutes hoping it might reset.  None of this has changed anything.

I’ve lifted the top panel so that I could at least get the wet clothes out. Tried to finagle the door lock to get it to release so that I can at least lift the lid, but I cannot find anyway to get it to release.  Looks to me like on the switch assembly (Part No. W11032875), I need to depress (in the direction of the back of the washer) two “tabs” that I would think would release the lid, but I can’t seem to depress them far enough to do that. I’ve been able to get the lock detached from the bottom of the top panel and still can’t maneuver things in a way that would release the lid.

My gut reaction is that since I have absolutely no power to the display panel, it’s likely the main control board. But the difficulty in getting the lock released has me questioning whether it is just the lid lock.  I know from Google University that the inability to unlock the lid can be caused by a bunch of potential issues (water control valve, bad lock, drain valve, etc.) but it seems to me that with any of those problems, I should still have power at the display panel.   

Any suggestions?  Should I just bite the bullet and order the main control board or is there some other hidden issue out there I should check?

Thanks in advance, Andy

[Nathaniel Peterson]

On 8/19/2024 at 8:45 PM, coralbrief1 said:

This unit stopped running mid-cycle. Although there is power to the outlet, there is no sign of power at the display panel. Changing to different wash cycles does not result in anything different. Push the power button and I get nothing.  It is plugged in to an appliance surge protector. For troubleshooting purposes, I have plugged it directly into the outlet (which is fully powered). Also left it unplugged for more than 30 minutes hoping it might reset.  None of this has changed anything.

I’ve lifted the top panel so that I could at least get the wet clothes out. Tried to finagle the door lock to get it to release so that I can at least lift the lid, but I cannot find anyway to get it to release.  Looks to me like on the switch assembly (Part No. W11032875), I need to depress (in the direction of the back of the washer) two “tabs” that I would think would release the lid, but I can’t seem to depress them far enough to do that. I’ve been able to get the lock detached from the bottom of the top panel and still can’t maneuver things in a way that would release the lid.

My gut reaction is that since I have absolutely no power to the display panel, it’s likely the main control board. But the difficulty in getting the lock released has me questioning whether it is just the lid lock.  I know from Google University that the inability to unlock the lid can be caused by a bunch of potential issues (water control valve, bad lock, drain valve, etc.) but it seems to me that with any of those problems, I should still have power at the display panel.   

Any suggestions?  Should I just bite the bullet and order the main control board or is there some other hidden issue out there I should check?

Thanks in advance, Andy

Unplug and plug back in the display board. If nothing go from each connector usually 3 and see if you get I believe 5 volts to ground and the middle pin? And 12vdc on ground and the other pin. DC voltage.

[coralbrief1]

Thank you.  The connector to my display board has five pins.  Zero voltage from each pin to ground.  Because I originally misread your post, I also checked the pin to ground voltage on the door lock connector and I’ve got zero voltage at each of those three pins as well.  I checked the voltage coming out of the EFI filter going to the MCB and it is 120v.  So looks like a bad board.