Kenmore dryer 110.92826 101

[Fritz]

press cycle, display shows and flashes with door open.

Won't run.

Can't get into diagnostic mode with:

Select any one button (except Pause/Cancel) and follow the steps below, using the same button (remember the button):
a. Press/hold 2 seconds
b. Release for 2 seconds
c. Press/hold 2 seconds
d. Release for 2 seconds
e. Press/hold 2 seconds

or back and forth for 2 secs each:
more time/less time.

turns out belt is broken.  I see numerous sellers of the belt have a "kit" that includes "upgraded" pulley wheels with "better" bearings.

Best to do belt and pulley at the same time?
The dryer is 22yo.

[citizenX]

That unit has a broken belt switch so it won't let it run if there's no tension on the idler, which engages the switch. Not sure if that would prevent it from going into diagnostic mode or not but yeah, at 22 years I'd replace the belt, rollers, and idler pulley/ linkage as well. 

[Fritz]

this is the "kit" I ordered.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09CLZDGT2?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

What is the linkage?

[citizenX]

The linkage is that 90° metal arm that the idler pulley is already attached to. It looks like they're giving you an extra idler pulley for some reason as well. I'd still replace the cylinder rollers while I was in there. 

[vee8power]

3 hours ago, Fritz said:

this is the "kit" I ordered.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09CLZDGT2?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

What is the linkage?

That is a downgrade compared to OEM parts. I would use the OEM part #4392067 on that dryer rather than knock off parts from amazon sellers. The 4392067 comes with the belt , 4 rollers, and the idler wheel. The idler arm isn't needed that often. More important than parts, though, is how good you do the job. I make sure all the hair is gone from around the shafts, wipe the hair varnish from the shafts using a solvent based spray ubricant, wipe them dry and install the new wheels. 

[Fritz]

solvent lubricant such as?

hadn't thought about the tub rollers. OK. I'll re-order OEM.

from the vids I've watched, it looks like the drum weighs >30.  Is that so?

[Fritz]

this instead https://ishort.ink/zwMS

as OEM,

 

 

[Fritz]

Permatex Ultra Slick?

[citizenX]

As vee8 said, OEM parts are always best. If those are OEM parts you linked to, then great, but many sellers on Amazon will list parts as being OEM even with the OEM picture when they really aren't. Buying from an authorized appliance parts distributor, like Marcone for example, and you will get genuine factory oem parts. 

Do not use any lubricant on the idler, rollers, bearing or shaft surfaces as it will just attract lint and dirt and lead to premature part failure.  Cleaning with a solvent based lubricant is fine as it leaves no oily residue. Just clean the shafts well if not replacing them and wipe off all the residue. I usually replace the idler arm linkage (with the idler pulley and shaft already attached) on older machines as the shaft can develop uneven and worn surfaces, especially if it's already been squeaking, but if the idler still turns freely and the shaft isn't worn you can just replace the pulley. 

[Fritz]

yes, the 2nd link is Whirlpool store.

[Fritz]

or SuperLube 92003

[THRAMICH]

Gasoline is excellent for this purpose. Not kidding!

[citizenX]

4 hours ago, Fritz said:

or SuperLube 92003

No, do not use grease of any kind on idlers, rollers, and shafts. It attracts lint and dirt.