Kenmore Elite Dishwasher 665.14743N510 not filling

[havokbill]

So, the simple answer may be that the water inlet valve needs to be replaced but figured I would ask the wonderfully responsive experts first.

My 8 year old Kenmore Elite Dishwasher 665.14743N510 had an issue (again) where it was leaking from the diverter valve. This caused corrosion on some of the connectors under the dishwasher so, since it was within the last two weeks of a service contract, I was provided the parts for free, but no installation. The dishwasher has been sitting unused since February waiting for me to have the time to do the work.

Today, I pulled the dishwasher out, removed the wiring harness, removed the sump assembly and replaced both. I watched a very explicit youtube video for the wiring harness and took photos so I knew where everything went. The only "extra" wire on my dishwasher was an orange pair that connects to something over by the water inlet valve.

After reassembling and turning the water back on, I fired her up. It made the normal beginning sounds where it would drain for a few seconds but I never heard the solenoid on the water inlet valve actuate and no water entered the dishwasher.

While it is possible that I hooked something else up wrong with the wiring harness, it's not terribly likely as many of the leads are only long enough to go where they are supposed to go.

Is there anything else that comes to mind that could prevent the water inlet valve from operating other than complete failure? I supposed I could check for voltage at the wiring harness connector for the water inlet valve after starting a cycle. Should I expect to see a consistent 120V? Or is there some other way to test the valve or whatever else might be causing this?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

[Vance R]

The float switch being stuck in the up position or not connected. Yes there should be 120 vac at fill valve during the fill part of the cycle. This is a Whirlpool made dishwasher, they used brown wires for the fill switch, float switch and drain pump. The wires are long enough to be swapped as they are easily confused. 

[havokbill]

7 hours ago, Vance R said:

The float switch being stuck in the up position or not connected. Yes there should be 120 vac at fill valve during the fill part of the cycle. This is a Whirlpool made dishwasher, they used brown wires for the fill switch, float switch and drain pump. The wires are long enough to be swapped as they are easily confused. 

Thanks for the quick response. I looked back over the old wiring harness and, while the float and drain pump wires are also brown, the float switch is the shortest single brown wire that doesn't seem to be long enough to reach the water inlet valve and the drain pump brown wire was bundled with the blue and red wires that go to the diverter motor. I can also hear the drain pump running when I press cancel after testing for the fill.

Is there any way to check the condition of float switch or to bypass it? i was also wondering if the unit sitting unused for 9 months could have "frozen" the inlet valve solenoid. I'll see if my multimeter leads will fit into the connector that i believe is for the water inlet valve. If i have somehow swapped the float switch lead and the water inlet lead, what voltage should i see at the float switch lead?

I truly appreciate your assistance.

[Vance R]

At the water valve during the fill part of the cycle there should be 120 vac. Manually move the float part of the switch to see if it is in the down position.  You can ohm out the switch with float in the up and down position. Float down position zero ohms, float up position open or infinity. For the valve being frozen it is always possible just not likely. Is the water on to the valve? Here is the ladder diagram of the fill circuit. 

 

[havokbill]

On 11/2/2024 at 9:05 PM, Vance R said:

At the water valve during the fill part of the cycle there should be 120 vac. Manually move the float part of the switch to see if it is in the down position.  You can ohm out the switch with float in the up and down position. Float down position zero ohms, float up position open or infinity. For the valve being frozen it is always possible just not likely. Is the water on to the valve? Here is the ladder diagram of the fill circuit. 

 

I was able to get back to this today. Thanks for mentioning to double-check that the water was on (so many times when I'm working on a client's computer and it won't turn on, I remind myself that it has to be plugged in to power!). I also confirmed that I could not have switched the brown leads as the one going to the fill valve is bundled with an orange lead that goes to some other connector near the fill valve. I'm not sure what that orange lead is going to. 
Anyway, this is what I found:

I pulled the float switch and tested. No continuity when not depressed. Full continuity (no resistance) when depressed. I ensured that the float itself was free and not stuck in the up or down position.

I connected multitester leads to the fill valve connector and started the dishwasher. After the few seconds of the drain pump running, the dishwasher switched to fill and I showed 120V at the connector.

I will reconnect the fill valve and see if it magically begins working again.

Could whatever that orange lead goes to have something to do with the fill valve not working? What voltage should I see at the float switch connector? Or, have we gotten to the point that this is likely the fill valve?

Thanks again.