Dishwasher control board not delivering 120VAC to water valve, dishwasher not filling with water

[HockeyGuy]

Kitchen Aid dishwasher model KUDE40FXSP4 does NOT fill with water.

1. I tested the existing water valve by supplying 120V AC directly to it from an external source of electricity. The water valve works perfectly when supplied with the expected voltage - water from a hosed connection flows freely and at a very high rate.

2. I re-installed the water valve and conducted a multimeter test of the VAC delivered from the control board to the water value during a wash cycle. It delivers ~2.7VAC and NO water flows into the dishwasher unit. The water value is rated for 120 VAC so I replaced the control board. I installed it and there is still only 2.7V AC getting from the control board to the water valve. Water does not enter the dishwasher at all during a cycle.

3. There is no blockage in the tubes, and the copper water pipe delivers water at a very high rate as expected when not connected to anything.

4. A continuity test of the wire connector between the control board and the water valve is successful. 

Thought on what else might be the root cause?  

[jiaho]

you wanna try replacing the wire between the board and inlet valve?

 

[citizenX]

23 hours ago, HockeyGuy said:

Kitchen Aid dishwasher model KUDE40FXSP4 does NOT fill with water.

1. I tested the existing water valve by supplying 120V AC directly to it from an external source of electricity. The water valve works perfectly when supplied with the expected voltage - water from a hosed connection flows freely and at a very high rate.

2. I re-installed the water valve and conducted a multimeter test of the VAC delivered from the control board to the water value during a wash cycle. It delivers ~2.7VAC and NO water flows into the dishwasher unit. The water value is rated for 120 VAC so I replaced the control board. I installed it and there is still only 2.7V AC getting from the control board to the water valve. Water does not enter the dishwasher at all during a cycle.

3. There is no blockage in the tubes, and the copper water pipe delivers water at a very high rate as expected when not connected to anything.

4. A continuity test of the wire connector between the control board and the water valve is successful. 

Thought on what else might be the root cause?  

Did you check the float switch on the bottom of the tub (front right side) of the tub? From inside the tub, make sure the float cap freely moves up and down and there is nothing caught up underneath it. From underneath the unit, check that the float micro switch is working properly (with your ohm meter). It should be open (no continuity) when the float is all the way up and should be closed when the float is down.