KitchenAid built-in refrigerator lights blink then stay off after opening doors (KBFN402EPA01)

[TrippKnightly]

KitchenAid KBFN402EPA01

The lights on this have failed. Seemingly same as in service bulletin W1160649 Rev G. Can I “get away” with doing just one or two modules (selling house). The two lights up in the ceiling manifold where the display is… are so flush mounted it almost looks like I have to take the manifold off and get the lights from the back (if either is bad).

Behavior: https://youtube.com/shorts/Q9bvfUgP74Q

 

 

 

 

 

[TrippKnightly]

The ceiling lights actually come out with a little more effort despite being flush. But now I’m at my wit’s end. Have replaced all LEDs and still they are not staying on.

[Econo Appliance]

I haven't checked your wiring diagram, but those built-ins usually use three circuits for the LED lights. Whirlpool never tells you exactly where, but when one of the lights is bad then it will only affect 2-4 lights at a time. In your video I can only see the three lights on the right hand wall,

 

Do the other lights act the same? Including the ones in the freezer? The freezer lights are tied in to some of the fridge lights!

[TrippKnightly]

Thx. All the fridge lights flash. The freezer drawer light modules (two, both replaced) don’t flash or go on near as I can tell. I’m not sure if they flash when fridge is opened. I guess I could leave my phone in the freezer compartment recording vid to learn. I’ll check the tech sheet to know what’s wired to what.
 

I got advice in another forum it may be the inverter LED driver up above the fridge compartment. Maybe one in a hundred times the lights will actually stay on, which might suggest something?

[TrippKnightly]

The freezer lights flash I’ve confirmed. The wiring diagram shows 12 lights but I count ten on the unit including freezer compartment lights. What are the lights referred to as “pan” in the diagram?

[TrippKnightly]

Wish I could edit. Pan means panel - the backlights for the control panel? Interestingly, those don’t seem to be affected even the other lights in series to either side are. Whirlpool/KA sells 12 modules in a “kit” so I assume they are all the same.

[TrippKnightly]

Correcting myself again. As there’s another diagram referring to the “pantry” lights. Are those… only on a 5-door French? Pantry drawer if something?

[TrippKnightly]

Ah criminy. Sorry for the stream of consciousness (this must be why put grasshoppas in their own DIY drawer ). Now I see the final two lights utterly hidden under the top frame of the lowest “pantry” drawers. Those are also flashing along with all others 

[Econo Appliance]

Wonderful diagram,   this is the first time i've ever seen the light locations individually labelled.    What I have found is that when one LED light goes bad,  it affects the other 3 on that circuit.   Logically,  one would think that if ALL the lights are going crazy, that the problem would be in the LED driver board(s).    However be careful,  i've found that many customers wait until ALL the LED lights fail before they call for service....  on these fridges when all the lights are going crazy,   I often end up replacing three LED lights (one bad per circuit)  AKA i am fixing four lights at a time.   If I were you,  I would test all the LED lights in one particular circuit before ordering expensive boards.    The circuit I remember easiest is an L shape in the refrigerator,   three on the left wall and the bottom light on the right wall usually make up one circuit (the first one on your diagram).   I replace those 4 lights one by one,  if the problem stays then you have to dig deeper.

When you say you replaced "all the lights" ,   how many have you really done and are the new replacements still installed currently?

There are other ways to test these lights but this is the way I do it... take it with a grain of salt and good luck!

Edited January 16 by Econo Appliance

[TrippKnightly]

Ok thx here’s an update. I have replaced 10 of 12 lights. The two that are difficult are on the underside of the frame for the lower pantry drawers. They are behind a plexiglass airtight assembly so not sure how to do them. They do flash brightly like all the others.  I have also replaced the driver and the behavior is unchanged. But now I wonder about the main board since I think the door / drawer switches connect to it before the board attempts actuating the lights.

I have two new vids.

First: those two pantry drawer lights encased in plexiglass (not very interesting but fwiw): 

https://youtube.com/shorts/98sjdsm13so

Second: the lights behaving the same after “almost full” replace and driver replace, in which I wonder am I hearing weirdness on the main board during switch actuation:

https://youtube.com/shorts/ELr1_epnVgE

 

 

 

[Econo Appliance]

The main board sends 120VAC to the LED board when the doors are opened (switch closed).  Are you able to put a voltmeter on those two wires into the LED board, and tell us what readings you get with the presses of the door switch?

I have fixed a lot of these refrigerator lights but I've never seen your particular problem, so please don't be upset with me if I am steering you down the wrong direction.  I'm only describing to you what I would do in your place, just as a disclaimer!

[TrippKnightly]

Well, I measure 3V AC from the main board to the driver board with doors closed, and it steps up to 8-11V AC when I open the door. That can’t be ok!

[TrippKnightly]

Final post. I hope. I got a new (to me) main board and that fixed the problem.

Probably most of the lights were “fine” to begin with.