Maytag MVWB765FW3 top load direct drive F7 E9 error

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Hello - and thank you in advance for any help you can provide.

I have a 6 yr old Maytag toploader (model in title) that initially would not spin out clothes. Turning the basket by hand, I could feel resistance on the basket between 8 o'clock and 4 o'clock positions but the agitator still seemed to work.

Here's what I have done thus far:

I have the service tech booket #W10607408B that was hidden inside the outer shell and have put the machine into diagnostic mode.

Tried test cycle functions: 010 (low speed spin), 011 (mid-speed spin), 012 (high speed spin), 013 (slow agitate), 014 (fast agitate). Agitate modes appear to work although the outer drum also spins when testing agitation. Tested 015 (toggle shifter) to see if I could hear electronic clutch engage/disengage) and nothing happens when toggling this test cycle.

I have removed the slider and rotor -- the plastic teeth inside look pristine (not torn up at all) so I have eliminated this as part of the problem.

I have removed the agitator and confirmed that there is nothing hung up or stuck between the agitator and outer tub and the splines on both the agitator and gearcase are undamaged and not worn so I have eliminated those as the cause of things locking up.

From what I can understand of this service guide, it appears that either the motor has failed (which would still be within warranty but I have no idea of how to test and confirm and then try and get Maytag to fulfill the 10 yr warranty on the motor).  Or is it more likely that the clutch simply won't disengage and is locking everything up?  The service book is not clear (to me anyway) on this point -- is it more/most likely the board has failed and needs to be replaced and the components are fine?

I'm looking for whatever experience and guidance someone can give me. The washer is well-liked by us and I'd hate to trash/recycle it instead of replacing whatever part has failed and get several more years of service out of it. I'm retired so I am trying my best to save some $. I do have a digital multimeter so if I should be testing components, any help/guiding there would be appreciated.

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Did more troubleshooting today if it would help any of you experts help me figure out exactly what to replace.

Removed rotor (rotor shows no unusual wear and tested OK in continuity)and clutch and inspected the outside of the slider (the friction material) and inside of the clutch. 

I could see wear on the clutch that approximated the 8 o'clock/4 o'clock position that I detected the resistance when turning the outer drum by hand. There was also wear on the slider in those same areas. And now for whatever reason, I cannot turn the agitator by hand separately from the outer drum -- turning the agitator also turns the outer drum at the same time. Makes me believe that the clutch itself is not releasing.

When I ran #015 to Toggle Shifter -- all I got was a double beep and no sound or movement I could hear each time I tried to engage.  When I ran the spin tests, I could hear the rubbing noise and the basket was moving back and forth more than I thought was going to happen given these tests are all run with the basket empty.

Ran #50 Service Diagnostics. The following items passed: 5, 6, 7, 11, 13 and 19. Code 18 FAILED, that is the test for spin for 20 to 30 seconds.

Given the wear on the slider and the electric clutch, should I replace these parts? Or just 1 of the 2 parts?  Also wondering how you can tell whether the suspension is worn out and that ultimately caused the wear on the slider and clutch?

If any of you can help with this, it would be greatly appreciated. Up until now, this washer has worked flawlessly and my wife really likes it and hates the thought of going through another selection process.

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So, no experts bothered to weigh in with their experience to give me a better idea of whether I needed to order a few parts or lots of parts (in which case, the decision to do that versus buying a new machine would have to be made). This was very disappointing because help seemed to be available years ago.

In any event, I used my own judgment after going through the service booklet and because of the wear/tear on the slider, I ordered a new slider mechanism along with a new electromagnetic clutch (found a great deal on a new, OEM open box part). Since the clutch CANNOT be tested with a meter by itself and given its wear on the inside ring, I felt this was a safe approach.

I spent a grand total of $60.95 for these 2 parts. Really didn't think (or want) to have to order a new transmission, a new washer for the transmission along with the spanner nut and spanner wrench. I figured I would try the 2 parts 1st to see if that fixed the problem.

New parts arrived yesterday, installed the slider and clutch and went into diagnostics mode 51 to let the unit recalibrate (even though some videos I watched said that was unnecessary). I also did a full diagnostic test and things passed.

So far, we have done 2 loads of clothes with no issue and no noise whatsoever. This machine was light years quieter than it has been in quite a while. The 2nd load we did was a longer, bedding cycle load with a full complement of king sheets, pillowcases and a few other items. Changed the spin speed to max before running and the cycle completed with no problems whatsoever. In the next day, we will run a few more loads of laundry but I feel pretty confident that the new slider and clutch did the trick.

I did find one very good video about the slider -- only to find out that according to service people, that part fails most often - within 2 to 4 years. I wish I would have found that video sooner as I would have ordered almost immediately to try instead of waiting for an answer here, giving up and taking a $60.95 chance on 2 parts that clearly were able to help fix the issue.