JGP979SEF2SS cooktop - rear burners not sparking

[jwicklin]

I have a customer with a GE JGP979SEF2SS cooktop.  The unit has sealed burners not the type you disassemble from the top of the unit.  Regardless of which knob I turn the front two burners spark and the rear two burners do not.  I replaced the spark module thinking it would be a single point of failure for the observed condition.  No change in symptoms.  I then swapped ignitor leads top & bottom first with no change in symptoms, repositioned to original positions and swapped left to right - still no change in symptoms.  I have eliminated switches as the underlying cause since regardless of which switch I turn to the ignite position front burners spark.  I have doubts about it being burner ignitors because that would mean two ignitors had to have failed simultaneously.  I'm thinking possibly the two ignitor leads routed to the two rear burners may have shorted out to each other since that would be single point of failure resulting in both burners not sparking.  The problem I'm having is I don't see how to disassemble the cooktop to get to those leads.  These burners are sealed, they are not twist off or lift off components to get to torx screws like most burner assemblies.  Does anyone have disassembly instructions for this model?  I don't want to start prying on things and cause damage to venturi tubes.

[Econo Appliance]

Looking at the igniter itself, it is the type that has two ceramic parts, very often one of those Ceramics will crack and the spark is going to the wrong place. You can take a screwdriver, holding carefully by the handle and if you hold it between the electrode tip and the burner and you can manipulate sparking, then you need a new igniter.

 

 

 

[Budget Appliance Repair]

This GE uses the old style Maytag/Magic Chef burners.

1/4 turn counter clockwise and they will left out of the cooktop module.

They sometimes get gunky buildup between burner head and cooktop/module body and they will be very hard to turn to release - work a putty knife between bottom of burner head and module body to loosen up.

Also go to Harbor freight Supply Company if you have and and buy a set of the strap wrenches, (rubber straps), they will give a good grip on the burner head to turn it loose.

Edited February 26 by Budget Appliance Repair

[jwicklin]

Thanks William.  I will go back and give it a shot.  I tried gripping with my hand and could not budge the left rear burner.  I will get a rubber strap wrench before heading back.

[Econo Appliance]

That's what I thought it looked like too, but I didn't want to suggest any bad info.  Those look like the burners that unscrew. And the igniters look exactly the same as the whirlpool (save money).

[jwicklin]

I went back yesterday and was able to figure it out.  The sealed burners are the twist off type, but they can't be twisted off from the top until screws from the bottom securing the gas venturis to them are removed first.  What I discovered was the burner pan assembly has to be slid out towards the rear of the cooktop first.  Then the pan assembly can be turned over giving access to 7 screws that secure the bottom pan to the burner top plate.  With the bottom pan removed the two screws securing the gas venturi to the sealed burner unit can be removed and the sealed burner could then be twisted off (strap wrench wasn't needed once screws were removed).  Once I had the pan disassembled and could see everything it became evident why the back burners weren't sparking.  Unlike many cooktops that have that webbing style insulation on the wires running to ignitors, these only had a shrink tube covering which was inadequate to prevent grounding.  On the left side it had laid up against the gas supply tubing and melted sufficient to expose bare wire for the back burner.  On the right side it was still there but must have laid against the burner pan over time.  I have temporarily repositioned the wires and used electrical tape to ensure correct diagnosis.  Since original parts are discontinued (part of WB02X10985), I plan to rob properly insulated wires from a junk unit and solder those to the crimp style connectors at each end of the old wires.  I have all igniters sparking by careful positioning of the wires for now but I'm certain over time the wires will sag again grounding themselves out hence, yet another trip required to resolve this issue properly.