Kenmore 110.92826 101 not drying efficiently

[Fritz]

I cleaned the moisture sensors on the back of the lint trap.

The exhaust pipe was just cleaned in Dec. 3 loads a week average.

Seems to be slowly becoming inefficient.  Most loads are requiring 2 normal runs to dry.

I changed the gas solenoids a couple years back.

I assume there are sensors I should test for continuity?

Or is there something else to check first?

thanks

 

[citizenX]

Venting/airflow is always the first suspect for a long dry time complaint. Gas valve coils is the second.  Double check the entire venting run for clogs, crimped flex hose behind the dryer, clogged screen or damper door on the termination cap outside. If the venting is good, then I'd suspect the gas valve solenoid coils. I know you said you replaced them a couple years ago but they can indeed be bad again, especially fi they were a cheap amazon or ebay aftermarket part. 

If you can remove the bottom front panel and observe the gas burner operation, that will help to diagnose. With a wet load of clothes, the flame should stay on for a while (10-30 minutes?) before it starts cycling off and back on. The gas should not cycle off until the clothes are starting to get dry so if after just a few minutes you see the ignitor coming on and glowing but then it clicks off without igniting the flame, then that is most likely bad valve coils.  

[Fritz]

thanks for the input X.  the gas supply is rather tight to pull the beast away from the wall.  could certainly be a clog in the vent as there is a 90º near the entrance to the wall.

Don't recall where I got the solenoids, but it also could've been longer than I thought.  At the very least pre-pandemic.

[Jon Myres]

Hello!

I would see if there are differences on Time Dry versus Normal Dry. Any short cycling on the flame? Time Dry shouldn't use the moisture sensor. The moisture sensor is a input to the control and the control sends 120 VAC to start the heating process. Then, I would check for common denominators like the thermistor. This is a input to the control for controlling temperatures ( sending 120 VAC ). Common denominators for Time Dry and Sense Dry: Weak high-limit thermostat or glow bar, issues with the main control, and bad flame sensor. You could test the newer gas coils. I could only find a parts break down on Service Matters, so this is all I have. Hope this helps!

Here is a link that may help

 

Edited March 4 by Jon Myres

[Fritz]

Thanks. I have to open the kick panel next run to watch.
Thermistor checked for continuity and thermal fuse, I was told 11.9k @ 70ºF.  I got 13.5k @ 66ºF.  That math makes sense to me.  

Have to check the 90º bend at the back of the dryer.  Got to be careful rotating the dryer where the gas supply is concerned.  If that's clear, then the coils if the inside view shows short cycling at the top of the cycle.

[Fritz]

Kick panel off and watching now. The cycle ran about 30m with no interruption of the flame.

It shut off and the load was done.  Which, I'd think, would fair well for the coils and most of the other mentioned parts.

Does the fact that the kick panel was off effect the air flow positively?

Maybe need to check again with a heavier load, like sheets or towels.?