Maytag A308 SN 912752 CA - Mid 70's machine fills and starts by itself.

[pjw73nh]

Yes, as strange as it sounds, I'm sitting at my kitchen table this morning and I didn't really hear it filling, but I DID hear it when it started to agitate.  I went over to look at it and it was full of water, no clothing (expected).  The selector was on extra large (usual for us).  The timer dial was on the blue (delicate) cycle. We have NEVER used that cycle since we owned this machine (1979).  The blue/delicate cycle is immediately after the end of the brown (regular) cycle. I was the only person in the house at the time.  

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks. 

[citizenX]

Sounds like a bad timer. Been not available for a while though. Make sure the timer knob pulls/pushes in and out freely and there isn't something binding causing it not to engage/disengage properly. If the machine still otherwise works, I'd just plug it in to a power strip or something with an on/off switch and control it that way as a master shut off. 

[pjw73nh]

Thank you CitizenX.  Great idea.   Though I'd really like to be abel to reproduce the issue.  Not holding my breath. 
Thanks. 

[pjw73nh]

OK. So here's where I am. I was able to reproduce the issue today.  Yes, there is, in fact, an issue.  I'm 70 years old, I've kept my A308 alive, maintaining it without too much trouble for 50 years (Since 1975). It owes me nothing. I've got probably $75 in parts invested in it. 

 

Up to this point I have been a staunch defender of the early Maytag machines.   Mine is starting to show wear of the agitator bearing (wobble).  It's a matter of (short) time before the bearing wears far enough and starts to destroy the seal.  God willing, I have somewhere around another 15-20 years on the planet.  I want to buy another washer for my family.  We do approximately 4 large to X-large loads per month. 

Cost and aesthetics are not concerns. I want reliability. We are very simple users. No need for anything  hi tech. We use primarily one setting now on the A308 (regular). I don't need a clothes dryer.  Maytag (which model), Speed Queen (which model). 

I don't care what it looks like or how much energy it uses.  I want this to be the last washer for my family, and I don't want to have any problems with it.   Or, if there ARE issues, I don't want to fix them myself (warranty). I am too old. 

Thank you in advance. 

[citizenX]

Nothing wrong with keeping the A308 going if you can. I'm as old school as they come so I get it. Still. there comes that time when you gotta replace it but I'd keep using it as long as it wants to keep washing! 

That said, the disposable Maytag/Whirlpool garbage of today is NOTHING like what you have there. Not even close. The only thing that is even in the ball park is Speed Queen, as you noted. (I am an authorized servicer for Speed Queen for 25 years). The thing is, with all the gov energy mandates and such, even Speed Queen has fallen victim to reliability issues in some respects. They still make a quality machine designed for the long haul but you probably want to avoid the TR series (TR3/5/7) with the lid lock and new design wash system with no transmission. It's a decent unit but I run a lot of calls on lid locks, electric drain pumps, control boards, etc. on these.  They also have a TC5, which is the original classic wash system design with the transmission and heavy duty motor and has no lid lock. It is a very reliable unit with a 5-year full warranty but it is computer controlled now and that can get pricey if the drive board ever has an issue down the road. They do have an old school mechanical timer controlled commercial unit (TV2000) with no electronics that is the older design (same as the TC5 but without any electronics) but it does NOT have any labor warranty, just three years on parts. Which still isn't bad considering every other brand only gives you one year on parts and labor. 

If ultimate old-school reliability and washability are the main concerns, I'd consider the TV2000 just understanding it has no labor warranty, only three years parts. The TC5 is still a great machine as well (same motor/transmission/wash system as the TV2000) but with a full five year warranty - it just has electronics. In all honesty though, I don't replace many boards on the TC5 but I do on the newer design TR units (ones with the lid lock). That may be because the dealers in my area sell a boat load more TR's than they do TC5's but as a whole, I think the TC5 is a much better unit overall. Speed Queen also makes a really good front loader if that was a thought. I am partial the the top loaders myself though.

I personally have an older Amana branded washer, which is actually a Speed Queen unit from 1997 that is still going strong. Only thing I ever did to it was replace the belt about 15 years ago. Today, the equivalent SQ machine would be the commercial TV2000 unit. 

Hope that helps and wasn't too confusing. 

[pjw73nh]

CitizenX,

>>>Hope that helps and wasn't too confusing. <<<

NOT AT ALL!!!  A great post. Thank you so much for taking the time and eplaing thing in such detail. it REALLY helpsme a lot. I would've blindly started considering the TR line. I was just about to go find out wht the lid-lock thing was all about when your reply came in.  I have defeated the lid lock in many machines.  In most ceses it was rather easy. 

So, you've piqued my interest in the TV2000, but it is proving difficult to find locally. I am now looking at the TC5. There is a clearance (repaired (board issue)) one locally for $999 with 30 day uncontional return, and full manufacturer warranty.  But they also offered me a new in box TC5 for $1249.   

Thanks again for your great advice. 

[Budget Appliance Repair]

11 hours ago, pjw73nh said:

So, you've piqued my interest in the TV2000, but it is proving difficult to find locally. I am now looking at the TC5.

You can find the TV2000 online for around $1359 with free shipping anywhere in the US.

Another thing to know about the TV2000 - No water level control, All washes are with a full tub of water, (not a problem if you only do full loads).

[citizenX]

14 hours ago, Budget Appliance Repair said:

....Another thing to know about the TV2000 - No water level control, All washes are with a full tub of water, (not a problem if you only do full loads).

Thanks Willie, I forgot to mention that. That actually doesn't bother me at all as I'd rather wash and rinse with a full tub of water anyway. More room for the clothes to tumble= better washing and rinsing. 

[citizenX]

On 3/20/2025 at 9:12 PM, pjw73nh said:

.... I am now looking at the TC5. There is a clearance (repaired (board issue)) one locally for $999 with 30 day uncontional return, and full manufacturer warranty.  But they also offered me a new in box TC5 for $1249.   

Thanks again for your great advice. 

You're welcome. If they're offering a 30 day return and it still comes with the full factory warranty, sounds like a good deal to save $249.  Coming from the old school Maytag, I do think you'll be happier with either the TC5, or the TV2000 over the TR series. 

[pjw73nh]

CitizenX, Well, I took a ride to have a look-see.  Same store, but different location.  I asked them about the "clearance" unit.   This time, I was told (and I'm not sure how accurate they were) that the clearance machine had only a 30 day return for credit towards another unit.  NO MFR Warranty.  I really didin't think they knew what they were talking about, but I decided against it anyway and got a new-in-box one.   For the peace of mind, the extra $250 for "no questions asked if an issue arises" is worth it to me. Thanks again for all your help.  It should arrive Tuesday. 

[citizenX]

Sweet. The TC5 is a great unit, plus five years bumper to bumper warranty! If you have any operational questions or anything after you get it, let me know and I will answer any questions. 

[pjw73nh]

Thank you. Much appreciated..

[pjw73nh]

CitizenX,  Since you offered...   

The TC5 was  just delivered this morning and the installers did a pretty crappy job.  They just put it in place, connected new hoses to the hot & cold supply (not the washer), took out the tub shipping bracket, took a picture and left.

I didn't want new hoses, mine were less than a year old. Braided stainless.  In the process of putting the new ones on, they loosened a couple of other fittings (water hammer arrestoers) and they leaked.

I finished the install and then found a bag with with instructions UNDER the washer. It has two screen washers and 4 rubber leg pads,  Well now that I have it all installed  i have to pull it out, put the rubber pads on, disconnect the supplies and put the strainer washers in. 

But I digress.  Just griping a bit. 

My real question is: The lid makes a "groaning" noise at the top of the swing.  I am going to try and attach a video of it.  Please tell me this is an easy, inexpensive fix and I don't have to place a service call on the washer. 

Thanks again for all your help. 


 

[pjw73nh]

I should've added, the noise is from the left side hinge. I tried loosening it a bit and retightening it, but it has self centering screws and there is no "play" in it. Thanks.

[citizenX]

Geeze, some people just don't care about their job. Ok, the rubber feet are necessary so the unit doesn't walk. Also, the front legs are adjustable and should be locked into position to the bottom of the frame with the lock nut that is attached to the leg bolt once the unit is leveled. The rear legs are self-adjusting. Once the unit is in place where you want it, just tilt the unit forward and let the rear legs come off the ground and set it back down. You should hear the rear leg mechanism moving when you tilt it forward.

Also, check to make sure they removed the shipping plug under the unit. The plug is a plastic plug about three inches wide pressed into a square piece of cardboard that goes up through the center hole in the base pan. It just pulls out from the bottom and hard to miss so hopefully they pulled that out. 

The hose washers with the screens go in the faucet end of the fill hoses with the cone facing the water flow. 

The creaking noise may be because the lid is buckled inward if they pushed down on it. The lid is normally raised up a bit in the center but if it gets pushed down, it will cause the left hinge to rub on the retainer clip under the top. Open the lid and push up on the center of the lid from the inside. It should pop up if it's pushed inward. If the lid isn't pushed in, it jut may need a little grease on the left side hinge retainer clip. It's under the top. 

Let me know. 

[pjw73nh]

Thanks Brian,

I cehcked for the buckle in the lid. Nope. Pretty flat, I even tried gently to see if it would"pop/  Nothing.

I undid the two screwes holding the left hinge. I could pull the hinge out about 1/2" but I couldn't get it our all the way.  I lubed it up and it made no difference. 

Can you give me a little bit more detail on >>>make sure they removed the shipping plug under the unit.<<< and the best way to locate and remove it?  Do I have to tip the unit on it's side or remove coveres?

Thanks.  Paul  

[citizenX]

Just pull the unit away from the wall and tip it back so you can look underneath. If the plug has been removed you'll just a 3" hole in the bottom of the base pan. 

As far as the lid, you said it's pretty flat? It should be raised up in the center about a ½" or so. I see this so many times where people push the lid in and it makes it make noise.

If the lid is not buckled, the noise can happen due to friction where the hinge arm rubs into the retainer clip. There is a little plastic clip with wings that is stuck on the underside of the top. When the lid is opened all the way, those "wings" grab the end of the hinge arm to hold the lid open. There is a service bulletin on this and if we run across it, we're supposed to sand smooth the end of the hinge arm where it contacts the retainer clip. It's not really a big deal. You can pull the hinge arm all the way out by pulling it out to the right like you did, then rotating it forward and pulling it out. Then sand smooth the last inch or so of the hinge arm end. 

Lubing it can help but you have to lube it at the very end of the hinge arm under the top, not just where it goes into the lid. The sanding trick is a more permanent fix per Speed Queen. I'll see if I can upload the service bulletin. 

[citizenX]

[pjw73nh]

Hi Brian,

Well... I confirmed the shipping plug is NOT there. I was able to suffiently level the washer per your instructions.    However, I tried to rememdy the left hinge noise but was unsuccessful.  I was able ot remove the hinge, sand it (with 880 grit) that's all I had available.  I re-lubed it, re installed it and I am left with the ame issue.  Not a show stopper, just annoying.  And a bit insulting after paying close to $1300 for a high quality washer, and it's not perfect.   I'm not going to lose any sleep. One last question. How is the water/load level set? I didn't see any controls other than "Deep Fill".

Thank you again Brian for all your help.  What a wonderful resource you have been. 

[citizenX]

The water level is set by the cycle used. But it will still add more water if it senses it needs to once it starts washing, based on the load size, so there should never be a situation where you don't have enough water fill. The "deep fill" option just sets it to the highest water level from the start. I always run mine with a full tub of water anyway so the clothes have more room to move. Better washing and rinsing. 

As far as the cycles, try to avoid the "normal eco" cycle if you can. That cycle is all about the "eco" and not the "normal" and is only there to help the unit meet the EPA mandated energy efficiency requirements.  You only get cold water and don't get an actual rinse cycle, as it just does a quick spray rinse which isn't very effective at getting all the soap out of the clothes. Use "Heavy Duty" instead for most things. It's not any harder on your clothes than the "normal eco" but it gives you a full rinse and is only a few minutes longer. They both use the same agitation and spin speeds. 

I attached a pic I took today of the super high-tech lid retainer clip I was talking about, for your reference. You can see the two "wings" on the clip that grab the hinge arm. You can apply some silicone grease to the wings and that should help. You can do this from the top of the machine. With one hand, push the inner tub to the left-rear as far as it will go (you may need to hold it there as you are fighting the tension on the tub springs). With your other hand, close the lid slightly so the hinge arm comes out of the retainer clip. With your third hand, take some silicone grease on the end of your finger and reach up under there to apply the grease to inside wings of the clip.  

That said, you said before that your lid looked flat.  If you open the lid and sight across the top of it, it should have an obvious rise in the center of the lid. It shouldn't be perfectly flat. 

[pjw73nh]

Hi,  The lid is NOT flat. it has a slight arc to it.   I was able to silicone the "winged" hinge lever catch, but it mad no difference.   How does the top flip up like in your picture?  Maybe if I had better access to it  I could get it lubed better. 

Also, yes, I ran an eco load yesterday. It started to fill with hot, then about 30 second or so, it stopped and filled the rest with cold.  Based on your reply above, I presume this is normal fo "eco".  I'll try heavy duty next load. Thanks Brian. 

[Captain Dunsel]

@citizenX Is it possible to upload that FB24-12 Bulletin when you get a chance?

[citizenX]

1 hour ago, pjw73nh said:

Hi,  The lid is NOT flat. it has a slight arc to it.   I was able to silicone the "winged" hinge lever catch, but it mad no difference.   How does the top flip up like in your picture?  Maybe if I had better access to it  I could get it lubed better. 

Also, yes, I ran an eco load yesterday. It started to fill with hot, then about 30 second or so, it stopped and filled the rest with cold.  Based on your reply above, I presume this is normal fo "eco".  I'll try heavy duty next load. Thanks Brian. 

The top doesn't just lift up. You have to remove the front panel first (two 5/16" screws at the bottom) and then two screws under the top front corners. Then it lifts up. Just hang on to the lid. 

If the lid has an upwards arc to it then it's not pushed in. Not sure why you're still having the hinge noise. 

Frankly, the Eco cycle is a garbage cycle. I tell folks not to use it unless they're just super energy-conscience. Its sole purpose is to save energy - not to effectively wash your clothes. Heavy Duty, warm, is the way to go, with "deep fill" selected for larger loads. Perm Press cycle washes good too but just has a slower spin speed, so heavier items won't get wrung out as well. 

[citizenX]

19 minutes ago, Captain Dunsel said:

@citizenX Is it possible to upload that FB24-12 Bulletin when you get a chance?

Will do when I get home

[pjw73nh]

Hello again Brian (CitizenX). My new Speed Queen TC5 is making a "buzzing/humming" noise during the first spin of a heavy-duty cycle.  The second (final) spin does not have the "buzzing/humming" noise. I am wondering if this is normal. I looked in the manual and went through the various cycles and it says that for BOTH wash spin and final spin tehy are "high" speed.

Thank you for any information or suggestions you can provide.

-Paul...  

 

The washer sttings are: Temp=Warm. Options= Off. Deep Fill=Off. Cycle=Heavy Duty. 

I have two links to videos of each of the two spin cycles.  Hopefully they will work for you.

This is the first spin WITH the buzzing noise:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/GLjKPtSXF7QxuHzx6

This is the second spin Without the buzzing noise:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DLhwj2jhrzVZQdDbA