GE Side by Side freezer is warm, Fridge okay.

[Fixer]

I have a GE refrigerator model GSHS9NGYBCSS from 2010. This is a side-by-side Profile series unit with a single evaporator coil and a digital control panel. There are independent temperature controls for both freezer and refrigerator and independent temperature readouts.  I’ve read somewhere that this unit thermostatically controls the compressor based on the freezer temperature and the fridge section bleeds a controlled amount of air from the freezer to feed the fridge. It all suggests the cooling is inadequate to keep the freezer at zero but as long as it stays below 10 or 12, the fridge should be fine and that’s what I see. I doubt the evaporator has ever been cleaned. Could it be that simple?  
I have only 3 months of history with this unit.  It worked great for half that time and controlled temperatures tightly.  Then the freezer section slowly began warming up.  Fridge section is unaffected.  The compressor seems to be on all the time where it used to cycle more normally.  There is no frost build up in the freezer.  The only time the compressor shuts down is very briefly just before the defrost cycle.  Then it turns on and the temp raises to 8-12 degrees.  In the last week or so it has never made it below 5 degrees at any time of the day or night.  These temps are based on the digital display on the door but I’ve confirmed the readout does a good job of reflecting food temperature in both compartments.  
I hope someone has seen this before, and/or can help with the debug. Thanks.
 

[Budget Appliance Repair]

@fixer - Have pulled the evaporator cover in the freezer, (the evaporator isn't what would need cleaning - that would be the condenser coils, the ones on the outside under the unit by the compressor).

If you have a defrost problem and it just started you might not see any frost on the evaporator cover in the freezer - you would have to pull that cover to actually see the evaporator coils and see what the frost pattern looks like to determine if it might be the start of a sealed system problem, (low on refrigerant because of a small leak).

From your description - it's sounding like the start of a sealed system, (leak), problem.

Edited Wednesday at 12:22 PM by Budget Appliance Repair

[Fixer]

3 hours ago, Budget Appliance Repair said:

@fixer - Have pulled the evaporator cover in the freezer, (the evaporator isn't what would need cleaning - that would be the condenser coils, the ones on the outside under the unit by the compressor).

If you have a defrost problem and it just started you might not see any frost on the evaporator cover in the freezer - you would have to pull that cover to actually see the evaporator coils and see what the frost pattern looks like to determine if it might be the start of a sealed system problem, (low on refrigerant because of a small leak).

From your description - it's sounding like the start of a sealed system, (leak), problem.

Thanks for pointing out my confusion on the evap coils.

I haven’t pulled the rear panel yet but yes, that should be checked, and I’ll plan to do this.  I’m a little doubtful that it’s a defrost problem because the compressor turns off at the beginning of the defrost cycle and I can hear tell-tale signs of dripping and expansion creaking sounds when that happens.  For reasons I don’t understand, the temperature doesn’t start rising during defrost until after the compressor turns back on.  Is there a clue there? 

Also, this problem has been going on long enough to build up frost on the rear panel.  It's been progressively getting worse. 

Last night the defrost cycle started and the problem became more serious.  The freezer reached 21degF and the fridge went to 42degF.  It's now 12-hours later and those temps haven’t changed!  I can hear the compressor, but the temperature of the front exit air has cooled notably over what it had been before last night.  This is consistent with a sealed system problem, but I have to wonder if it could also be a bad inverter.  I don’t think it’s a fan problem because I can hear and feel the evaporator fan in the freezer compartment and I can feel air blowing out from the front below the door.

Here is a tentative plan of attack:

• Pull the freezer rear panel and examine the evaporator coils.
• Pull the rear cover to test the inverter and clean the condenser coils while I’m there.  Decide if inverter is good/bad or if compressor is bad or leak in sealed system.

Here are some questions:

• I think I can check for good volts (4-6volts??) getting to the inverter and good line volts also to the inverter.  I’m expecting to hear that the compressor is running since it sounds like that from the outside and since it has to run to keep 21/42 degrees F.  So, I’m not sure how to decide between the inverter or the compressor.  I need some suggestions here.  Is it enough to look for all three windings having equal resistance to declare a good compressor?  I have a Fluke DMM that will measure frequency.  Don’t know if there is any way to test for good/bad output from the inverter.  This is not as simple as noting the compressor not running (since it is running but maybe not fast enough) and good inputs to the inverter to declare a bad inverter.  This is where I really need some suggestion on how to tell if the problem is or isn’t the inverter.  Would love some guidance here.
• Would also like to know if my general debug approach is sound, or needs help.

 

[Fixer]

I'm attaching a picture of this fridge for reference.

[Alanna Farrell]

Based on what you’re seeing—freezer not hitting target temps, compressor running almost constantly, and no visible frost buildup—the most likely cause is a partially restricted or dirty evaporator coil or a weak compressor. Since this GE model uses a single evaporator and air dampers to regulate fridge temps, and the fridge section is staying cold, it confirms the evaporator fan and airflow path are working. But if the evaporator is clogged with dust or gunk (externally or internally), or if the sealed system is slightly undercharged or the compressor is wearing out, cooling capacity drops just enough to keep the fridge fine but not freeze the freezer. It’s absolutely worth pulling the rear panel in the freezer to visually inspect and clean the evaporator coil (gently). If it’s clean and has a light, even frost pattern, then the issue might be refrigerant loss or compressor fatigue, both of which require a tech with gauges. Given the age, this may be a sign the sealed system is weakening.

[Fixer]

Thanks for this information.  Yes, I agree the sealed system has an issue, probably a leak.  @Budget Appliance also suggested this earlier. I had hoped it was the inverter.  The problem has been progressing and as I mentioned earlier, both the fridge and freezer have gotten warm.  I pulled the rear freezer panel to find that the bottom 3-rungs of the evaporator are the only ones with frost (picture below).  Defrost heater checks good.  I then measured good line volts into the inverter and line current of 0.7 amps which I think is also good.  The control volts into the inverter ranged from 4.7 to 5.4 vdc and about 60-63 Hz frequency.  Compressor was about 10degrees F above ambient.  Condenser was barely warm.  None of the tubes were warm or cold.  I think this all suggests the inverter is doing its job and the compressor at least has good electrical continuity.  I noticed a black oily substance at the rear right side on the floor that was spread around by the roller wheel when I rolled out the unit for testing.  I think this all points to a closed system leak.  Several months ago, the floor under the fridge was clean.  I assume this would be more than $500- to get a tech on it, so I don’t think it makes sense for a 15-year old unit. Might be time for a new one.  I do have a few questions just for my education:

1. Does the frost pattern suggest low freon?  Does it tell us anything at all?  The picture was taken after the unit was in operation for a long time.  After being on for only 30-40 minutes, there was a light frost on the bottom two rungs only.
2. Was the black oily substance on the floor consistent with a leak?  
3. Why do closed systems develop leaks like this if that’s what we’re looking at?  It seems a leak would require a puncture, so if no rough treatment there should be no leak, right?
4. Am I right that this would cost more than $500- to repair a leak?
    

[Budget Appliance Repair]

The frost pattern indicates a sealed system problem.

Sealed system can develop leaks over the years, tubing braze joints can crack/fail, tubing can corrode and other things.

I doubt the black on floor is oil - if so you most likely wouldn't see any cooling at all.

Probably not worth repairing - leak has to be found and repaired and may need compressor or other parts, (most likely easily 500+).

[Fixer]

6 hours ago, Budget Appliance Repair said:

The frost pattern indicates a sealed system problem.

Sealed system can develop leaks over the years, tubing braze joints can crack/fail, tubing can corrode and other things.

I doubt the black on floor is oil - if so you most likely wouldn't see any cooling at all.

Probably not worth repairing - leak has to be found and repaired and may need compressor or other parts, (most likely easily 500+).

Thanks for this information!!