B21CL81SNS/04 compressor control board failure

[Robert Couchman]

I hope I'm following protocol here, I had a thread going about the defroster problem which is now I believe solved but on the way there I ran into a new problem. While I was waiting for the defrost heater sensor replacement to arrive, I pulled the cover off the back of the refrigerator. Anticipating that I might have to replace the control board if this part didn't do the job. At some point with the defrost heater still disconnected. I imagine I could plug the refrigerator in and get the fridge section to cool down saving my food from completely warming up. The minute I plugged the unit in there was some arcing on what I now know is the compressor control board. I waited until the replacement part. That is the defrost heater. Temperature sensor arrived, reinstalled it and then again plug the unit in and again there was arcing on this board. I removed the board. Looks to me like it's a rectifier full wave rectifier and the arcing. Is that the top of the board as you're looking at it from my troubleshooting experience? It's rare that there are two concurrent problems, but that appears to be the case. I can't think of anything that I did along the way to cause this bridge rectifier to fail. I'm actually thinking that I can procure the bridge rectifier and replace it on the board, but I'm open to suggestions. It looks like it's a pretty common board available on Amazon and other places. The illustrated replacement boards lack the second cap that appears on the upper right section of this board. The board number is itrp 04bx1.a. thanks for your help

[Budget Appliance Repair]

@Robert Couchman Both of the capacitors next to what you think is a bridge rectifier look like the ends are bulging out, (sign of a bad capacitor).

The top of the capacitor should be flat and able to see the stress relief lines in the top like you see on the smaller capacitors.

[Robert Couchman]

Thank you for answering my query, let me see if I can explain what I discovered. I desoldered the full wave rectifier that is adjacent to the two caps and found that the hot glue that had been used to mechanically attach the capacitor had flowed underneath the rectifier, become carbonized and therefore conductive and that's what was arcing. I cleaned up the carbonized hot glue replaced. The full wave rectifier and everything seems to be working swimmingly. I'll post some pictures for your edification. Thanks again to everybody who contributed.