GE Topmount, Mod# GTS18DCMARWW

[SteveM]

Is it possible for this model to get stuck in defrost?

Symptoms are it will cool for a few days and then everything in the freezer will begin to thaw and the food section will warm up. When I saw it on Friday the lights were on but no fans or compressor were running. Once I advanced the timer the cooling kicked on. Based on that, I replaced the defrost timer and whistled my way out the door.

I just received a call. Monday evening, and the customer informed me that it is doing the same thing. He also must have been watching me, because he said he advanced the timer and the fans and cooling game on.

I suspect is it getting stuck in defrost and I am wondering if I should have changed the bi-metal as well.

Any other thoughts?

 

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

The defrost thermostat would not affect the operation of the defrost timer. I think it was reasonable to replace the timer. There has to be something affecting the power supply to the defrost timer motor. Could be a loose connection somewhere, either at the timer or further upstream. Look at the wiring diagram and follow the power wires back, doing a visual on each connection.

[SteveM]

The timer itself did not plug completely into the wire harness. I would estimate that there is possibly 1/8" gap of exposed male plugs on the timer. Try as I might, I could not get it to mate completely.  

Could this cause the malfunction, and any tricks to forcing that last 1/8" closed?

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Doesn't seem like a 1/8" gap would cause a problem, but this is an indication that something's not quite right here. Is the replacement timer a GE OEM or some other brand?

[SteveM]

GE, but I am thinking of using a FSP.

[Poobah]

I'm going strictly from memory here but I don't believe the Whirlpool timer is the same. The Ge has a # code of  1-4-3-2 while the Wp has a #code of  3-4-1-2  unless you go with the flying lead one, I can't remember the # off hand

[Jedi Appliance Guy]

The cold control would stop the fans and compressor.  It's close to the timer.  Do not use the FSP timer in the GE.

[SteveM]

I took a second look at the cold control. I got very faint continuity once but could not replicate it.

Also, once I hooked it back up, the fans and compressor started up until I knocked on the controls. At that point both fans and compressor shut down. I could restart the unit by advancing the timer but had a difficult time keeping it running. It would run for a short period and cut out. Finally it kept running.

I believe the relay in the cold control is bad.  

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

There isn't a relay in the cold control-- it's just a pressure (via temperature) acuated switch.  But it does sound like that's the culprit here. 

[Poobah]

I've had couple CC in the last coupke months that acted like that, although they were on Whirlpools. They would allow the box to cool down but after kicking out they wouldn't close again.  If you bypass  it should let the ref. run with no prob. and this will let you know if it's bad........