GE Profile Refrigerator Model #TFX28PBBA

[starpal]

I have a GE Refrig Model # TFX28PBBA that was in about 7 inches of water. 

It runs, doesn't swim and doesn't get cold in either compartment.

We tested voltage at a box at the side of the tub-like compartment (compressor?) and found it alternating between about 110V and down near zero volts each time a click was heard - about every minute or so.

Thanks,

Paul

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Depending on exactly where you're measuring, it sounds like you're getting voltage to the compressor, the compressor tries and fails to start, and the overload opens, dropping voltage to the compressor.  Suspects at this point:  bad start relay or bad compressor.  

Can you verify where you're measuring the voltage?  In this diagram, the klixon (overload) is item 735 and the relay is item 733.

[starpal]

Looks to be 733 - I removed the clip 732 and the cover 734.  The first pair of terminals I have access to are the lowest - looks like 733 in this diagram.

Note that my parts are on the other side of the compressor, close to the side of the refrigerator, not the center as in this diagram.

thanks

[AccApp]

If the MOV in the start relay gets wet and you try to use it before it dries out it will shatter. Shake the relay, if it rattles bust open that bad boy and see what you got. Measure the resistances between all three terminals on the compressor to prove that it is electrically OK. The water could not have affected the compressor as it is a sealed unit.

[starpal]

The ohms between each pair of terminals on the compressor is about 8, 5.6 and 3.

Shaking the part #733 doesn't make any rattle sound - is that a relay?  It looks like a small plug.

thanks

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Also measure the resistance from one of the compressor terminals to ground using the highest resistance setting on your meter.  If you read *anything* the compressor is bad.  

If the compressor does turn out to be bad then, as AccApp said, the cause would be unrelated to the flood.  But it still needs to be ruled out.  

As an aside, the resistance measurement I suggested is only definitive using a megger; but if there's something grossly wrong with the internal compressor motor windings, you may see it on your meter.

[starpal]

Thanks -

Whats a megger???

My meter shows OL on each of the three terminals to the chassis. 

Does this mean the compressor is ok and I have to test the start relay?

Next step... ?

thanks

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

A megger is a mega-ohmmeter.  It measures very high resistances, in the mega-ohm range (M-ohm).  The resistance between the motor coils and the compressor chassis should be infinite.  But measuring "infinite" is only as good as the instrument you're using to measure.  Even really good multimeters may only be capable of measuring resistance up to 20 M-ohms.  So, if a current path resistance was higher than 20 M-ohms, you wouldn't know it using a typical multimeter.  But, in this case, what you don't know *can* hurt you!  

Let's bring it home to the case at hand, where we're trying to assess the health of this compressor.  If the compressor has developed a high-resistance path to ground, say 50 M-ohms, this could divert enough current so that the start winding can't develop enough torque to help start the compressor.  The result is "hummmmmm-CLICK!"  

We don't know if this is what's happening with your compressor since we don't have the proper instrument to draw this conclusion. So, absent the means of making a definitive diagnosis, we fall back on heuristics.  

As AccApp alluded to, the relays are very prone to failure.  Even if the relay doesn't make a rattling sound-- which, if present, is slam-dunk proof that the relay is bad-- it may *still* be bad.  It's also inexpensive.  Try installing a new relay to see if the compressor will start.  If still no joy, then you have a bad compressor == new refrigerator.  

Lemme know how you go, Buddyrow.

[starpal]

Will do - part has been ordered.

thanks

[starpal]

Right on the money - starts up and cools down nicely with the new relay.

Another  question - is the 'overload' part also subject to early failure?  Can I test for the condition of the this part, or any other parts that may fail soon?

thanks very much -

[AccApp]

I have yet to see one of these newer style overloads fail. Run the fridge till something else blows.