Kenmore He3t washer #110 42932-200

[starpal]

  Hi,

Another flood victim appliance - this one has been rinsed out and dried for over a week.  When I power it on, the front panel lights that would normally be on come on and flash at a regular interval - a little faster than 1X per second.

The numbers indicating time remaining read out normally, and if I select a different cycle the timer number will change correctly, but I have to select the button while the flash is on for the change to take effect. There are no error codes etc.

If I try to start the cycle, nothing happens.

Any suggestions on where to go first?

thanks -

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Here's the service manual for this washer.  When you open it in your pdf reader, page 39 begins the component testing procedures.  If this was in a flood, it's a good bet that the motor control unit (pg. 35) and maybe even the motor itself are both bad. 

[starpal]

Thanks -

I checked all the components coming off the CCU that I could check with powering on and they are all equal to the values in the manual.

Also, the three motor windings values are 5.9 or 5.8 ohms - acceptable so I assume that the motor can be considered to be ok?

Is it possible to test the actual CCU and MCU boards?  My washer lights up momentarily and then continues to flash at a regular rate - if I press another selection while it is 'on' then the washer changes to that selection, eg chaning time or powering off.  No error codes ever pop up.

Is it possible it is a bad connection issue somewhere?

Any suggestion to evaluate before just changing out the CCU and /or MCU?

Thanks

[starpal]

I found no click when plugging the unit in, so followoing the troubleshooting page I changed the CCU and resolved the flashing lights problem.

I now have an F/H error while trying to run a normal cycle, and the same F/H when running the diagnostic test after C:01 step.

The tub seems to filll normally, then gives the error code and will drain normally when I select drain/spin.

According to p 6-4, I may have a pressure switch problem. 

Should I read 0 ohms across all 4 connections that are listed in testing the pressure switch?  With no power and the cable to the pressure switch disconnected, I get OL on 1-2, 3-4, 4-5, and several hundred ohms on 4-6.  Does this mean its bad and I should replace the pressure switch?

Is it possible there is debris clogging the opening into the tube to the pressure switch causing it to give the error?  I can remove the tube and it is clear, but haven't tried to get underneath the tub to where the hose connection is.

Thank you kindly.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Are you testing the pressure switch at its wire harness at the CCU? And with the connector disconnected from the CCU? If it's still connected to the CCU, then the readings are meaningless since you're reading back through circuit and not necessarily through the pressure switch alone.

F/H means water was not detected entering the machine. Is this is the case? More info on the F/H code at this post, last paragraph.

[starpal]

Thanks Samurai,

It must have been the loose harness to the flowmeter - I reconnected and have run a couple of cycles flawlessly.

The pressure switch was disconnected when tested.

Thank you!

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

I knowed you could do it, Budrow!  Nice 'shootin'.